99 jeep Cherokee sport engine cuts out and the immediately kicks back in - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 11-20-2013, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
amohrhauser
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99 jeep Cherokee sport engine cuts out and the immediately kicks back in

I've seen this issue on other forums, but people have tried current things. Don't know exactly where to start. I have a 99 jeep Cherokee sport v6 4.0l. While driving the engine cuts out and immediately kicks right back in. It dies no codes, it has also stalled twice while coasting all gauges and radio stay on. The rpms drop and pick right back up.when it stalled it started right back up and did it twice in row didn't drive it further til went to the shop and on the way there it cut out and kicked right back in. The mechanic could only find that the distributed has play in it so he replaced the whole distributor and it's still cutting out and kicking right back in. He said he checked the iac, tps, cps all appeared fine. Any suggestions would help?

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post #2 of 23 Old 11-20-2013, 12:41 PM
cory4um
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Oxygen sensors?
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post #3 of 23 Old 11-20-2013, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
amohrhauser
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It does throw an o2 sensor code but that has been bad for 3 years and this just recently started
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post #4 of 23 Old 11-20-2013, 03:08 PM
cory4um
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Well!!!
I'd start looking into them. My jeep acted the same way when my sensor went out.
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post #5 of 23 Old 11-20-2013, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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It also just randomly dies when idling again radio is still going and such..starts right back up
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post #6 of 23 Old 11-20-2013, 05:30 PM
CJ7-Tim
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Fix the known problems, then see if the other random behaviors clear up.

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not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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post #7 of 23 Old 11-20-2013, 08:39 PM
tk106
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When it stalls are u turning the key to restart the engine or does it restart by itself. If it does start by itself, I'd check the battery and terminals for loose connection. Had the same issue on my Nissan Altima.
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post #8 of 23 Old 11-21-2013, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
amohrhauser
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When I'm driving and the engine cuts out for a split second it kicks itself back in and just keeps going if it completely stalls out I put it in neutral and start it right back up..changed the o2 sensor check engine light is off but still having issues...it rained today and it completely died twice and the engine cut out fir a fraction of a second kicked itself back in about 20 times on a normal day it halted twice
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post #9 of 23 Old 11-21-2013, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
amohrhauser
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I also check the battery it's a year old cleaned it an the terminals ask gauges suggest to be fine when it cuts out so I don't believe it's battery related...I think it's electronic related though...whatever controls the rpms send to be the culprit and from what I've researched it could be a throttle position sensor, crank shaft vendor, the ignition module etc.. to me the crank shaft sensor would make sense if a wire is loose our exposed setting as how it rained today and it acted up more I would think that would be the one receiving the moisture because of where it's located
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post #10 of 23 Old 11-21-2013, 10:48 AM
M35A2
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Maybe an ignition switch?

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post #11 of 23 Old 11-21-2013, 11:07 AM
tk106
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I'd check the distributor or coil pack. Not sure when they converted over to the coil pack but that sounds like a distributor issue.
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post #12 of 23 Old 11-21-2013, 11:11 AM
tjwalker
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Crankshaft position sensors can fail in this manner and because it is a very intermittent issue, they can test out as okay.

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post #13 of 23 Old 11-21-2013, 11:13 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amohrhauser View Post
When I'm driving and the engine cuts out for a split second it kicks itself back in and just keeps going if it completely stalls out I put it in neutral and start it right back up..changed the o2 sensor check engine light is off but still having issues...
Test the CPS.

The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) located on the transmission bell housing. Often this part is also referred to as the CranKshaft Position Sensor (CKP) CPS/CKP failure is very common. The CPS/CKP can stop working with no warning or symptoms and the engine will not run or the engine may randomly stall for no apparent reason.

Crank Position Sensors can have intermittent “thermal failure”. This means that the CPS/CKP fails when engine gets hot, but works again (and will test as “good”) when it cools back down.

Begin with basic trouble shooting of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, and from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage or poor grounds and the ECM/ECU may behave oddly until you remedy this.



Symptoms –
- Starter cranks and cranks but engine won't start up and run.
- Fuel gauge and voltage gauge may not work or display properly.
- You sometimes will have No Bus on the odometer after 30-60 seconds.
- A failed CPS/CKP may or may not throw a CEL trouble code.
- No spark at the spark plugs.
- Fuel pump should run and prime for 3-5 seconds.

If the CPS/CKP is failed sometimes the OBD-II trouble code reader cannot make a connection to the ECU/computer or cannot read Check Engine Light/MIL codes because the CPS/CKP has failed. Disconnect the code reader, disconnect the CPS/CKP wire connector, and reconnect the code reader. If the code reader establishes contact with the ECU and scans, your CPS/CKP is failed and needs to be replaced.


Diagnostic steps to confirm the CPS is the cause of your no-start


You should be able to verify a bad cps, by unplugging it, and turning the ignition key to on. If the voltage gauge and/or the fuel gauge now displays correctly, replace the CPS.

Unplugging and reconnecting the CPS sensor where it connect to the main harness near the back of the intake manifold usually resets the ECU and if the jeep fires right up after doing this you can bet that the CPS is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Exchange the fuel pump relay and the ASD relay with one of the other similar ones in the PDC to eliminate the relays as the cause of the no-start. Confirm that the fuel pump to runs for 3-5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON.

Eliminate the NSS as a cause of no start. Wiggle the shift lever at the same time you try to start. Put the transmission in Neutral and do the same. Do the reverse lights come on when the shifter is in Reverse?

Inspect the wires and wire connectors at the O2 sensors on the exhausts pipe. A short circuit from melted insulation or from broken O2 sensor wires can blow a fuse and the ECU/ECM will loose communication. Don’t get tunnel vision and assume the sensor is bad (unless it tests bad with a meter). Damaged wiring or a dirty connector can inhibit the signal from making it to the computer. Inspect/test/clean/repair wiring or connectors as necessary.


CPS Testing


Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector (CPS/CKP)


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TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines

1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (See Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

TESTING PROCECURE for 1987 – 1990 4.0 L engines

Test # 1 - Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 – 275 Ohms. . If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it.

Test # 2 - You'll need a helper for this one. Set the volt/ohm meter to read 0 - 5 AC volts or the closest AC Volts scale your meter has to this range. Measure across the CPS leads for voltage generated as your helper cranks the engine. (The engine can't fire up without the CPS connected but watch for moving parts just the same!) The meter should show .5 - .8 VAC when cranking. (That's between 1/2 and 1 volt AC.) If it's below .5vac, replace it.


The 2000 and 2001 will have the CPS in the same location on the bell housing, but the wire connector may be on the passenger side, not as shown in the diagram below. Simply follow the wire from the sensor to the connector.

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post #14 of 23 Old 11-21-2013, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
amohrhauser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tk106 View Post
I'd check the distributor or coil pack. Not sure when they converted over to the coil pack but that sounds like a distributor issue.
The entire distributor was replaced Monday so I'm assuming that's not that cause
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post #15 of 23 Old 11-21-2013, 07:02 PM
CJ7-Tim
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Why was the distributor replaced ? Are these symptoms the same as before, or are they new since the distributor was replaced ?

“We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the Courts,
not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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