91 XJ Leaking Coolant - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 06-29-2021, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
fhorta
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91 XJ Leaking Coolant

Hey all. Got a new problem with jeep Cherokee leaking coolant from where I think it's one of the rear freeze plugs. Ok guess first thing is to do cooling system pressure test. So I got the pressure test kit at autozone. Rented it. So when I pressurize system, what would indicate to me which plug is the one leaking of the ones in the rear?

Looking into it closer, the leak is coming from the oil pan joint. Kind of like where the oil pan gasket would set. Then from there the coolant trickles down to the bell housing so makes it appear as if leaking from bell housing. Would this still indicate bad freeze plugs in the rear? Just want to be sure before pulling tranny. I got the extension magnet tool with mirror attached. How exactly would I use that to find leak with LED light? Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 20 Old 06-29-2021, 06:36 PM
CJ7-Tim
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There are 7 freeze plugs on the 4.0 block if I am not mistaken. 5 on the driver side and 2 on the back. The freeze plugs on the backside of the engine you have to remove the transmission to access. Google some pictures or check out YouTube, bad freeze plugs are usually obviously bad.

“We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the Courts,
not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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post #3 of 20 Old 06-30-2021, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
fhorta
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Thanks. Definitely behind tranny. I'm now at the point of prepping to lower tranny. The first main snagg is removing the exhaust pipe which happens to be right underneath tranny. The bolts that attach front section of exhaust with rear are like welded on or soo rusted that seems to be welded on. Any ideas suggestions? It seems viable options here are to grind bolts off and drill out. Or saw off then weld back on together or clamp them together. Does that sound about right?
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post #4 of 20 Old 07-03-2021, 07:08 AM
CJ7-Tim
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If the exhaust donut bolts or hangers don't come right off, I cut them and replace with new.

“We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the Courts,
not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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post #5 of 20 Old 07-12-2021, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
fhorta
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I replaced freeze plug. Was the one that we suspected. So now im to the point of bolting the four flex plate to torque converter bolts . From the removal instructions, it was said to mark the flex plate and torque converter positions So that it may be put back same way. I marked it but dont see it now for some reason. I did align the plate holes with converter holes by turning crank shaft. I hand tightened all four bolts. Before i torque them, will this be ok or does it have to go back same exact way as it was when taken apart?
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post #6 of 20 Old 07-17-2021, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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Now the cross member holes not aligning with frame. I'm aligning middle of member with tranny mounting 4 bolts 4 middle holes on member. But frame and member holes not aligning. Well one side does but the other will be off a bit behind the frame holes. Any ideas, trick of the trades, suggestions? I'm putting member just the same as when it came off. Maybe lift tranny up some more, lift engine some more. Tranny is high enough the 4×4 and other linkages are even and hooked up. Don't want to break something. Thanks
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post #7 of 20 Old 07-17-2021, 08:49 AM
CJ7-Tim
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I have had to use a wood 2x4 to align the cross member bolt holes to the frame holes. Loosely install one bolt on one side and align the other side. Leave the bolts loose until you get everything in place.

Removing the two studs and converting to 4 bolts may make the job easier, or may break off one of the studs.

“We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the Courts,
not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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post #8 of 20 Old 07-17-2021, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
fhorta
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Thanks. So you mean use 2x4 to push tranny while with 4 bolts loosely on? Also, what studs you referring to convert. Sorry, and thanks again.
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post #9 of 20 Old 07-17-2021, 12:01 PM
CJ7-Tim
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New from the factory, the XJ transmission crossmember had 2 studs and 2 bolts at the holes in the frame. I used a 2x4 to pry on stuff to align the crossmember bolt holes. Just be careful not mash any wire harness or other breakable stuff.

“We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the Courts,
not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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post #10 of 20 Old 07-18-2021, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Got it! Hung one side with bolt halfway in, then went to other side and used 2×4 to push and align while hand tightening bolts in. It jst cooperated better today than yesterday i guess.

Now a new obstacle. The tranny oil pan plug is not going in smoothly like a should. Bolt plug looked a little bieat up so even bought new one. Still dame thing. Looking at hole threads looks like the bottom part thread is a bit worn. I did thread it ever so gently and got bolt in almost to where head is up against bottom of pan but not quite. Washers, tap it, maybe pour oil in and maybe already sealed. If tap in it, what tap size. Almost there this is so frustrating. Thanks all.
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post #11 of 20 Old 07-18-2021, 10:52 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Stop by a real locally owned Hardware store with the drain plugs, they will have a thread size check tool.

“We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the Courts,
not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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post #12 of 20 Old 07-18-2021, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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It's a M10-1.50 and the head 14mm. I went ahead and slapped a washer and threw thread sealant. Tightened and now of course washer is up against the pan. I tightened pretty good but not soo much to snap bolt off. I wonder though if enough. Looking for torque specs for plug?
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post #13 of 20 Old 07-23-2021, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Alright , refilled tranny oil, fired it up and no leaks; water nor oil. Now, new issue. Temp gauge did not go up at all while test driving. Suddenly it shot all the way to red then all the way back down again right away. Did same couple of times then i just parked it. Not sure if it's overheating since gauge sporadic like that. Ideas, suggestions, comments. Thanks
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post #14 of 20 Old 07-23-2021, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
fhorta
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Not sure if relevant but before deciding to replace freeze plug, i tried some leak sealant. I noticed temperature went higher. So i drained radiator before beginning plug installation to get rid of that crap which maybe plugged the rad. I refilled with fresh water to do cooling pressure test and left it like that. Might there be air in system?
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post #15 of 20 Old 07-24-2021, 06:33 AM
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Sounds like you have some air bubbles in the cooling system. That will cause the temp gauge to act like that. Make sure you have the heat on as the heater core can also trap air in it. If you have a hand help IR gun use it on the thermostat housing and let the engine heat up to temp for a few minutes and turn off. Make sure your overflow bottle is filled to the correct line and check it every few cycles. This will work out the air in the system.

Walter Ballard
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