8.8 Swap Write-up - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 29 Old 03-08-2008, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
ddeadserious
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8.8 Swap Write-up

1. Find a decently priced 8.8, $250 or so is the usual for a complete axle assembly. Obviously find it in the gear ratio that you want, I chose 4.10's and regeared my front to 4.10 as well for the 33" tires I'm running. I'm sure I'll end up at 4.88's somewhere down the road.


2. Cut off the swaybar brackets and spring under leaf spring mounts. Fill any grooves you may have accidentally cut into the axle tubes with weld and grind smooth.


3. Drain the diff fluid(which could very well be the fluid put in there from the factory, i think mine was.oke


4. Order a beefy differential cover from www.ruffstuffspecialties.com. You might as well order their 8.8 swap kit while you're at it.


5. Paint, seal, and install said differential cover:


6. Bend up hard brake lines, and I welded a 7/16" bolt upside down on the axle for the distribution block to go on to. I also mocked up the disc brake soft lines and welded 5/16" bolts in place for this near where the spring perches ended up. I used rear passenger brake hoses(the soft lines) for both sides, since the explorer drivers side soft line IS the distribution block on the explorer. I'm sure you could use this if you want, but I already spent money on my braided extended brake line. Don't have alot of pictures, but here you can see one of the soft line bolts welded to the tube. Also, weld the axle tubes to the housing as they apparently like to spin on these axles.


7. Remove the old axle, which involves removing the 4 total u-bolts, the shocks, and brake lines/breather tube.


8. Place the spring perches on the 8.8 and install the u-bolts/plates and the shocks for position. Be sure to measure a few times to make sure it's all right with the correct pinion angle(about 2° below being straight at the transfer case if you have a SYE. If you're still running the stock slip yoke, the pinion should be pointed level with the ground). Tack on the perches and shock mounts on in the right position.




1998 White ZJ Laredo: 5.2/242 // d30/d44a // BB // MX6's // Black Steelies // 30x9.50x15 BFG A/T's // FM50 // JCR T-Case Skid // Leather and stuff

Last edited by ddeadserious; 04-12-2008 at 06:44 PM.
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post #2 of 29 Old 03-08-2008, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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9. Remove axle and weld on everything for real. Also weld the tubes to the pumpkin as the tubes like to spin on these axles. This part kind of sucks.



10. Paint everything and make it looks pretty.



11. Install back in the vehicle permanently, and trim the u-bolts.





12. Bleed the brakes and put the wheels back on and take it for a test drive. Looks right at home in there.



A few miscellaneous notes:
  • The core charge for the calipers is as much as the caliper itself, so get some junkyard calipers for cores if possible.
  • To hook up the driveshaft, you'll need a flange adapter. The spicer number for this is 2-2-1379 and can usually be had for cheaper at drivetrain places than anywhere online. You'll also need 12 point metric bolts(12mm x 1.75 thread 12 point) to hook the flange up to the axle, the ford part number for these is N800594-S100.
  • This is a heavy axle, definitely don't try moving it around alone.
Hope this helps, feel free to ask if you have any questions.


1998 White ZJ Laredo: 5.2/242 // d30/d44a // BB // MX6's // Black Steelies // 30x9.50x15 BFG A/T's // FM50 // JCR T-Case Skid // Leather and stuff

Last edited by ddeadserious; 03-08-2008 at 05:34 PM.
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post #3 of 29 Old 03-08-2008, 07:21 PM
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That thing looks horrible in there. What were you thinking? Take it out and give it to me in order to properly deal with the thing.

really though. Looks awesome. How's the acceleration now? And when does the new turdy get finished?

When I die and go to heaven I hope the first thing God says to me is "The bar is right this way."
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post #4 of 29 Old 03-08-2008, 08:53 PM
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sweet jesus thats a nice walktru!

1993 3dr XJ i6 4x4 , in the works but road-going :p
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post #5 of 29 Old 03-08-2008, 09:03 PM
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hey im thinking about doing this swap into my XJ. But I hear the axle is 1-1.25 inches shorter than stock. did you use wheel spacers to off set this? I just want an even track, but same wheels so i can rotate/ put on the spare without worrying. what do you think?

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post #6 of 29 Old 03-08-2008, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpwal099 View Post
That thing looks horrible in there. What were you thinking? Take it out and give it to me in order to properly deal with the thing.

really though. Looks awesome. How's the acceleration now? And when does the new turdy get finished?
Come and get it! Did ya get your steering box taken care of?

It's pretty good, it doesn't have to try nearly as hard to get up to speed, and it gets to speed vibe free. I picked up the 30 from Jeeperz Creeperz last night and painted it tonight. I'll probably throw it in next weekend and pray that I don't need 4x4 for the next week.

Quote:
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sweet jesus thats a nice walktru!
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogueXJ View Post
hey im thinking about doing this swap into my XJ. But I hear the axle is 1-1.25 inches shorter than stock. did you use wheel spacers to off set this? I just want an even track, but same wheels so i can rotate/ put on the spare without worrying. what do you think?
It's slightly narrower than stock, but it's seriously not noticeable at all. Remember if it's 1.5" narrower total, that's only .75" per side. I had planned on getting 1/2" wheel spacers if it was noticeable, but I won't be. Standing at the back of the vehicle looking forward, it looks completely even with the front. Having a slightly narrower rear axle will help give you a better turning radius as well. Definitely don't worry about the width, but if it's something that bothers you, get some small wheel spacers.


1998 White ZJ Laredo: 5.2/242 // d30/d44a // BB // MX6's // Black Steelies // 30x9.50x15 BFG A/T's // FM50 // JCR T-Case Skid // Leather and stuff
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post #7 of 29 Old 03-08-2008, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogueXJ View Post
hey im thinking about doing this swap into my XJ. But I hear the axle is 1-1.25 inches shorter than stock. did you use wheel spacers to off set this? I just want an even track, but same wheels so i can rotate/ put on the spare without worrying. what do you think?
you could always just go all out and get the c-clip eliminator kit. that wil widen it out to stock XJ width

Completely stock, and keeping it that way...


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11) Thou shalt love, cherish, and honor till death, thine square headlights above all other earthy things sayith the Lord.
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post #8 of 29 Old 03-08-2008, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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you could always just go all out and get the c-clip eliminator kit. that wil widen it out to stock XJ width
Yeah, I'll be doing that eventually. I'll be going to Superior Super88 kit. It eliminates the c-clips, widens it up to the "correct" width, and gives you alloy shafts with dual bolt patterns.


1998 White ZJ Laredo: 5.2/242 // d30/d44a // BB // MX6's // Black Steelies // 30x9.50x15 BFG A/T's // FM50 // JCR T-Case Skid // Leather and stuff
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post #9 of 29 Old 03-09-2008, 12:11 AM
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very sweet.

I gotta take some welding classes this summer...

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post #10 of 29 Old 08-05-2009, 02:05 AM
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i know its an older thread but hell byfar the best/clearest 8.8 swap write up ive found as i just score one out of a 97 exploder from a local yard with near new brakes for a grand total of about $130CDN and when i return my old axle i get about $30 back in core charges not bad price and boy was i glad i brought my power saw with me to the yard even though i only needed a mirrior for my VW its got 3.73(open) but i plan on moving up to 4.56s with a locker and with this write up things should go much smoother

now that you have had the axle in for a while do ya got any points that you have had problems with? or would do differently and does anyone know if its possible to make the explorer sway bar work as its much beffier lookin the the factory jeep one

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post #11 of 29 Old 08-05-2009, 08:00 AM
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Looks good...too bad Im going the D44 route instead or I would definitely use this

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Thank You Hooligan!!!

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post #12 of 29 Old 08-05-2009, 03:04 PM
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im in the process of doing this myself. and i was wondering, with the soft lines,cant you just use your stock lines from the front? or are they different bolt patterns?

thanks-nick

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post #13 of 29 Old 08-05-2009, 03:15 PM
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just started torching my 8.8 off last night and cleaned all the crap off today...... Great write up, did you have any problems on the brake lines?

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post #14 of 29 Old 11-30-2009, 07:53 PM
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Just wondering where you found the hard brake lines that are used in the swap? Thanks.
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post #15 of 29 Old 11-30-2009, 08:35 PM
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I may have missed it but I don't see any shocks or shock mounts on that thing??

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