1990 XJ Electrical Gremlins-No dash lights, no tail lights - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-08-2019, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
lrsmithwhaley
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Exclamation 1990 XJ Electrical Gremlins-No dash lights, no tail lights

Not sure if it's related, but I have no tail lights and no dash lights. I keep blowing Fuse 7 which according to the following diagram is Parking Lights, Headlight Warning Chime/Buzzer, Instrument Panel Light Dimmer. I've checked the rear lights and can't find any issues. I unplugged the trailer wiring harness thinking that was the issue and still blew a fuse. I unplugged the clock (dash lights started having issues when the push buttons got stuck) and that didn't fix it. Not sure where, or what to start messing with now.



http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=105


Green with Silver trim 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo (DD and Off-roader)
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-09-2019, 06:13 AM
cruiser54
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Install a new radio lately?

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post #3 of 12 Old 03-09-2019, 06:58 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Be specific, what exactly did you do when checking the rear lights ?

As already suggested, what are the most recent medications/additions/repairs to the circuits involved ?

If you are blowing fuses, there is fault, failure, or short circuit to be located and repaired.



You should be physically/visually inspecting and multi-meter testing continuity in all the related/fused:
  • light sockets
  • grounds
  • wire harnesses
  • switches and dimmers

.

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post #4 of 12 Old 03-09-2019, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
lrsmithwhaley
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It's an aftermarket radio that the PO installed. It's been in for a good year now without issue. Nothing new recently. I started having electrical issues around the time I went to adjust the built in clock and the little buttons got stuck (clock displayed 8888). I did some trouble shooting and it blows a fuse as soon as I pull the switch to turn on the lights. Until that point the door buzzer works and dash lights work. The headlights stay on, but the rest of the fused items (buzzer, dash lights, tail lights) stop working. I removed the clock and still blew fuses. I had someone else check the wiring with a multi-meter at the plugs and they said it was good. It's possible they didn't know what they were doing though. The ground is good and I've removed the trailer harness to make sure that wasn't causing an issue. The only things I haven't taken apart and checked are the pull out light switch and the buzzer as I'm getting mixed answers on where the buzzer is for this year.

Green with Silver trim 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo (DD and Off-roader)
March 2007 Stock Class XJ of the Month
Original Rust Jeep Club Member #2
Green Jeep Club Member #183
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-10-2019, 08:17 AM
Gremmy
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I had this similar issue no tail lights, head lights, dash lights, so replaced the headlight pull out it as it was smoking so easy decision.
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-10-2019, 08:35 AM
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Take the taillight bulbs out and inspect them and the sockets.

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post #7 of 12 Old 06-10-2019, 09:56 PM
husker88jeep
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I had the same issue going on and it came back to two blue wires and a black wire in the rear hatch were connected together when I put in aftermarket speakers ..the double blue wires have a female plug and they sit right next to a black wire with a male plug and I must've thought those go together so I plugged them in... well that's when I started blowing fuses...I did a google search and someone suggested to check those and EDIT....it did not fix my issue...looking for the same fix as OP...Help?????
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-14-2019, 09:28 PM
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-14-2019, 10:03 PM
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Use a volt meter set for continuity. Put one lead on the blue wire and one on the black wire if reads a connection then those wires melted together somewhere down the line. Find it separate them repair the damage and try again. Same goes for the OP. You have a short somewhere. Unplug your headlight switch. One test lead to a good known ground and with the other lead start probing each terminal on plug you took off the switch. Only the ground wire should read continuity. If any other wire does then follow that wire to the melted spot.
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-15-2019, 06:56 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by husker88jeep View Post
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You should be physically/visually inspecting and volts ohms multi-meter testing continuity in all the related/fused circuits:
  • light sockets
  • grounds
  • wire harnesses
  • switches and dimmers

.

A recent Gallup public opinion poll shows the NRA, at 58% approval, has a higher approval rating than either Hillary Clinton or Barack Obama.

Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
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post #11 of 12 Old 06-17-2019, 03:24 PM
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Heres a link to the FSM. Also, alot of things run through the rear window defroster that have no buisness doing so.

http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/j...e_manuals.html
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post #12 of 12 Old 06-24-2019, 04:32 AM
Swampdweller-nz
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I had a similar issue recently and had no tail-lights and no dash lights. Only discovered the fault when plugging in a trailer connection, and testing the trailer lights. Replaced fuse and it blew immediately the tail-light circuit was turned on.

Continued to blow fuses with the trailer disconnected so I went through all my wiring at the rear of the vehicle. Did all the standard checks - bulbs, fittings, wiring - and nothing seemed to have any obvious faults.

Finally got to the front of the vehicle and noticed that the left front park-light bulb had blown. Replaced the bulb, and it still shorted. On closer inspection of the bulb-holder I noticed that there was a small piece of bare wire where the cable had chafed though on the headlight bucket. Repaired the wiring, and end of problem.

Do the simple checks first! And just remember that your front park-lights are also part of your tail-light circuit, so don't forget to look there as well - it might be as easy as my fix.

.

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