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» Number of comments : 4030 - viewing 10 Per Page

Last Comment by polaris7000 - Posted Date: Sat February 21, 2015 12:31pm [ Post a Comment
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82 jeep project underway
Photo Details: "DSC00914" by polaris7000 - Posted Date: Sat February 21, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by Ryabauer94 - Posted Date: Thu February 19, 2015 1:45pm [ Post a Comment
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...uild-switc.jpg


This is how I'm wiring my switches.
Photo Details: "06 jeep grand cherokee" by banshee06 - Posted Date: Mon January 12, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by cabnettom - Posted Date: Thu February 12, 2015 7:10pm [ Post a Comment
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frt susp. from rear
Photo Details: "yj61" by cabnettom - Posted Date: Thu February 12, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by cabnettom - Posted Date: Thu February 12, 2015 7:02pm [ Post a Comment
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rear suspension
Photo Details: "yj210" by cabnettom - Posted Date: Thu February 12, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by omsok - Posted Date: Wed February 11, 2015 11:25pm [ Post a Comment
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Where does the hose go?
Photo Details: "4-23-2010_427" by fishinbama - Posted Date: Wed April 14, 2010 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by mickcollinsb16b - Posted Date: Wed February 11, 2015 7:49pm [ Post a Comment
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Mallory Comp Fuel Pump and 40 micron filter to protect pump. Will feed the future supercharged 4.0 well.
Photo Details: "image509" by mickcollinsb16b - Posted Date: Wed February 11, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by RWC - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:36pm [ Post a Comment
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Reasons to change the rod:
1. It's worn. Take it out and you'll see that the metal-on-metal, with no bearing surface, and no lubrication, has caused a gouge in the rod and opened up the hole(s) in the bellcrank.
2. It's not long enough because of a body lift.
Photo Details: "bent clutch shaft mount" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by RWC - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:34pm [ Post a Comment
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The early clocks didn't last long. There is an aftermarket replacement, but it doesn't look the same. I think it's worth it to have the OEM one rebuilt. I've done it for two clocks and had them upgraded to quartz movements.

The knobs are actually a part of the cable, but this is also a common problem. You can get the replacement cables in the aftermarket, or you can buy a set of aluminum knobs that have a set-screw to affix them to the shafts.
Photo Details: "9_of_41_" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by RWC - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:31pm [ Post a Comment
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They ALL crack there. Up through and including the YJ doors. Read through pages 67 and 68:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ga...2/index67.html

I picked up some YJ doors, which were cracked when I got them, and welded them up. Guess what? They cracked again.
Photo Details: "4_of_41_" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by RWC - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:25pm [ Post a Comment
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Yes. The hub is attached to the shaft with a key and a massive nut. If the key shears (which they do, ALL. THE. TIME.), the shaft will just spin inside the hub, and you don't go anywhere. It's an incredibly dated design, not to mention weak. I can't think of any other manufacturer who was still using a two-piece rear axle shaft into the '70s. AMC used them through '86. Because this is SUCH a common failure, there are a number of companies who make a single-piece shaft for the AMC 20. Interestingly, when AMC used this axle in the J-trucks and Wagoneers, they equipped the axle with a one-piece shaft. I don't know why they kept the CJs in the dark ages. Even the early '70s CJ-5s used a Dana 44, with a one-pieces shaft!
Photo Details: "28_of_41_" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

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