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» Number of comments : 4048 - viewing 10 Per Page

Last Comment by mickcollinsb16b - Posted Date: Wed February 11, 2015 7:49pm [ Post a Comment
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Mallory Comp Fuel Pump and 40 micron filter to protect pump. Will feed the future supercharged 4.0 well.
Photo Details: "image509" by mickcollinsb16b - Posted Date: Wed February 11, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by RWC - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:36pm [ Post a Comment
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Reasons to change the rod:
1. It's worn. Take it out and you'll see that the metal-on-metal, with no bearing surface, and no lubrication, has caused a gouge in the rod and opened up the hole(s) in the bellcrank.
2. It's not long enough because of a body lift.
Photo Details: "bent clutch shaft mount" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by RWC - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:34pm [ Post a Comment
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The early clocks didn't last long. There is an aftermarket replacement, but it doesn't look the same. I think it's worth it to have the OEM one rebuilt. I've done it for two clocks and had them upgraded to quartz movements.

The knobs are actually a part of the cable, but this is also a common problem. You can get the replacement cables in the aftermarket, or you can buy a set of aluminum knobs that have a set-screw to affix them to the shafts.
Photo Details: "9_of_41_" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by RWC - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:31pm [ Post a Comment
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They ALL crack there. Up through and including the YJ doors. Read through pages 67 and 68:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ga...2/index67.html

I picked up some YJ doors, which were cracked when I got them, and welded them up. Guess what? They cracked again.
Photo Details: "4_of_41_" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by RWC - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:25pm [ Post a Comment
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Yes. The hub is attached to the shaft with a key and a massive nut. If the key shears (which they do, ALL. THE. TIME.), the shaft will just spin inside the hub, and you don't go anywhere. It's an incredibly dated design, not to mention weak. I can't think of any other manufacturer who was still using a two-piece rear axle shaft into the '70s. AMC used them through '86. Because this is SUCH a common failure, there are a number of companies who make a single-piece shaft for the AMC 20. Interestingly, when AMC used this axle in the J-trucks and Wagoneers, they equipped the axle with a one-piece shaft. I don't know why they kept the CJs in the dark ages. Even the early '70s CJ-5s used a Dana 44, with a one-pieces shaft!
Photo Details: "28_of_41_" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by RWC - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:21pm [ Post a Comment
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No and no. If anything, you should probably want to keep it since I think it's doubling as a rear body mount support.
Photo Details: "27_of_41_" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by RWC - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:19pm [ Post a Comment
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Don't pull from the crossmembers. They are welded to the frame rails, and you end up pulling in such a way that you end up putting "odd" stresses on the welds, potentially causing the welds to fail and/or to bend the crossmembers (I've seen it happen). Winches and tow points should always be mounted directly to the frame rails, or they should have some kind of bolt-through backing plate bracket to the frame rail (OEM CJ-7 bumpers have these brackets, and I believe they also came with the hitches like you have). Look at the way WARN mounts their winches: 1/4" plate L-brackets mount to each frame rail with massive bolts, and then the winch plate bolts down on the L-brackets. No welds to fail, and the pulling force is directly at the frame rails themselves. If your frame breaks, you've got bigger problems.
Photo Details: "26_of_41_" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:18pm [ Post a Comment
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I thought the bend in this mounting plate might create some stress and add to the effort required to depress the clutch. We've ordered a replacement plate but now it seems, as with so many other repairs, to change the plate we need to change the clutch rod also?
Photo Details: "bent clutch shaft mount" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:15pm [ Post a Comment
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Tachometer is working but the clock is not. And all the knobs need to be replaced because they just pull off the shafts.
Photo Details: "9_of_41_" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

Last Comment by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Mon February 9, 2015 4:10pm [ Post a Comment
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The doors are cracking near the bottom of the window frame close to the small non-functioning vent window from the stress of slamming the door to get them to catch and stay closed. I'll need to find an adjustment to help them latch better or they're gonna self-destruct.
Photo Details: "4_of_41_" by BillZ77 - Posted Date: Sun February 8, 2015 - Rating: 0.00

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