249 -> 242 swap completed pics

EMTimZJ · Feb 15, 2006

Yesterday my buddy Aron and I swapped out my 249 with the toasted VC for a 242. This is a 242 from a '96 ZJ. I got this 242 from a guy in CT, Mike (grandman97) lives in the same town and was able to pick it up for me. We then met up at the JF Paragon Run II in October (yep the arctic chill + monsoon run :laugh: ) A big interstate HIGHFIVE to Mike!

Some other helpful links:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2781
http://jeephorizons.com/tech/tcase.html

The reasons for doing this are in there too. My VC had 175K and was well toasted! I now have low-lock as well.

Here is the case when I got it:

I cleaned it up and tore it down:

(Remove the tail cone (three 15mm bolts) to get to the snap ring, that ring has to come off before you can split the case and pull it apart. Don't loose it!)

Looking at the inside from the rear. The left gear is for the front output, the center rod coming toward the camera is part of the shift mechanism and the right gears and main shaft are all part of the 2WD / PT / FT and low range. Note the snap ring pliers in the bottom right, get a better pair, the wider they open the better.

EMTimZJ · Feb 15, 2006

Back half of the case and tail cone:

I cleaned out the entire case and looked everything over. It was all in good working order and shifted firmly into all gear selections. I replaced the tail cone seal before putting it under the ZJ. I used RTV and sealed it back up.

Support the transmission with a jack and remove the skid plate and crossmember:

Drop the front and rear driveshafts…

Unclip the speedo sensor near the tail cone, the 4WD switch and vent tube near the shifter linkage, and the shifter linkage itself. You are now ready to get at the 6 15mm (or 9/16) nuts that mount the transfer case to the transmission. The top one on the passenger side is the hardest. If the studs start to come off with the nut, not a big deal.

TC removed. Here is the business end of the 46RH transmission:

I carefully cleaned the mating surface with a rough towel before installation. You can also see the bolt circle in the above picture, it will give you an idea of where the 6 nuts are.

Use a seal puller to carefully remove the rear transmission output seal:

EMTimZJ · Feb 15, 2006

I got the replacement from Napa, around $8 (I think) and here is the part number:
(old one on the left, new one on the right)

The computer listed the same seal for all the transmissions (42RE, 44RE, 46RE, and 46RH)

TIPS:

CHOCK YOUR WHEELS!

Having an 8mm wrench (no not a socket and ratchet) will help get the front driveshaft off quicker. Even my ¼ drive shallow well socket and ratchet was pretty tight between the head of the bolt and the front output yoke, one it backed off a few turns there was not enough space and it had to be turned by finger strength. It was slow and a bit frustrating. (The rear is as easy as putting your groceries in the backseat) To rotate your front DS to get to bolts that may be on the top side, jack up the front axle, and get your friend and yourself to spin the front tires the SAME direction. Unless you are locked or have an LSD one person spinning a tire = opposite rotation of the other and no driveshaft rotation. (just incase some of us did not know that) TC should be in neutral.

When lifting the TC up to the transmission, put the TC in Part Time mode beforehand. This will allow you to turn the front output yoke and thus turn the input shaft of the TC which you can use to help mate the splines and slide right in. If the splines are not mated you cannot slide the TC into the transmission, and too much messing around will get you and your helper frustrated while hoisting this heavy hunk of metal above your head / chest in an awkward position :rofl:

Fill your case with fluid. I used ATF I had lying around, Phil used 5w30 motor oil and it works well for him.

Definitely get a helper for adjusting the shifter linkage!

Hope this helps anyone in conjunction with the other write-ups out there!

ArloGuthroJeep · Feb 15, 2006

Nice writeup Tim:thumbsup:

Teds98Grand · Feb 15, 2006

wow this is awesome!!

Perfect for my next project!

Ted

-Joe- · Feb 15, 2006

Good writeup.

But you shouldnt have to remove the crossmember for the transmission.

Phil Gerard · Feb 15, 2006

Since Tim mentioned it, the reason I use AMSoil 5W30 is because George Kreppian from Transfer Cases Unlimited (remember the TC raffle for members?) built my 242 and he swears on the AMSOil 5W30. Now you do have to change it more than ATF but George says TCs don't like ATF and he's spent his life between the axles. He may know more about TCs than anyone in the US.

Tim, great job!! Awesome GC you continue to improve!! See you in May if not sooner!
Phil :wave:

EMTimZJ · Feb 15, 2006

The removal of the crossmember allows one to lower the tranny a bit to get at the top bolt. Untill I get super-strength-spagetti-hands, I will have to make as much room as possible

It also allowed me greater access to the shifter linkage, removing the front DS and the such.

Glad you guys are enjoying it:thumbsup:

Dare I say it was fun

*EDIT*
OH yeah, I meant to mention that George recommended it, not that Phil just thows motor-oil around willy-nilly! :laugh:

You bet Phil! Gettin' ready for a Grand Slam packed spring/summer!

SMGORDON1259 · Nov 9, 2011

EMTimZJ said:
The removal of the crossmember allows one to lower the tranny a bit to get at the top bolt. Untill I get super-strength-spagetti-hands, I will have to make as much room as possible It also allowed me greater access to the shifter linkage, removing the front DS and the such.

Glad you guys are enjoying it:thumbsup:

Dare I say it was fun

*EDIT*
OH yeah, I meant to mention that George recommended it, not that Phil just thows motor-oil around willy-nilly! :laugh:

You bet Phil! Gettin' ready for a Grand Slam packed spring/summer!

Wouldn't it be easier to remove the center console and the Shift plate to get to the top bolts? I did it this way and scratched my head as to why you would drop the trans cross member. I cleaned mine up before re install with a wire brush and used anti sieze in case i needed to take it down again.

Swamp Boy · Feb 15, 2006

Good Job Tim.. Where is the finished pic of it in 2WD???

:thumbsup:

Something like this...

69395 · Feb 15, 2006

Okay, I have (yet another) stupid question. Once the swap is done, obviously the truck now has more options (2, 4full, 4 part, and 4 low I believe). The lever only had three positions. How does one know what gear you're in? Is it just by feel, or is there a trim plate with the corresponding settings? Are there issues with the linkage and the lever?

Wonderful writeup, great pics, BTW

ArloGuthroJeep · Feb 15, 2006

Get a new shifter bezel to replace the old and that fixes that problem:thumbsup:

fr3db3ar · Feb 16, 2006

rickd. said:
Okay, I have (yet another) stupid question. Once the swap is done, obviously the truck now has more options (2, 4full, 4 part, and 4 low I believe). The lever only had three positions. How does one know what gear you're in? Is it just by feel, or is there a trim plate with the corresponding settings? Are there issues with the linkage and the lever?

Wonderful writeup, great pics, BTW

Currently your shift lever only has 3 positions........it's limited by the positions available in your tcase.......after the swap....the bezel may only show 3 positions but the tcase will have 4....and of course after you change the bezel....they'll match :woot:

67538 · Feb 16, 2006

very nice work on the swap and write-up :thumbsup:

I can confirm that George suggests the use of 5w-30 in the tcase. I just got the email with the tracking number and instructions for the 231 I ordered from him!

EMTimZJ · Feb 16, 2006

@Carl: Well, to tell you the truth I was a little weary of doing that with the D35c out back

As soon as I get a beefier axle, I'll get some pictures Swampy style! I did find some ice to varify 2WD was working! Yeah, a one wheel-peel on ice is JU but what can I say:laugh:

@rickd, I got a 242 ZJ shifter bezel from a guy on MichiganJeepers.com, but he was acutally from Illinois so go figure! You can also 'feel' when the TC shifts into each mode seperately. That is how I messed around with it on the bench, put a 9/16 wrench on it, and turned the input shaft to examine if every selection was working properly.

For those who may be wondering, I did not mess with the wires behing the VIC, when I put it in low, the VIC lit up the LO light, and my service 4WD switch didn't come on nagging the crap out of me so I did not feel like messing with anything.

I almost got stuck last night in 2WD in my driveway, it was great

Yardman Harry · Feb 16, 2006

awsome write up! thanks for all the good info! Im going to go and get my 231 this weekend, going to pull it off of an old cherokee.

i have question guys. if i use the 231 from the cherokee to put onto my zj now,

a) will the rear drive shaft have to be shortened? and

b) will the slplines match up? or can i take the ones off of my 249 tc. ive never had any experience with this so any help will be great! thanks guys!!

EMTimZJ · Feb 16, 2006

Depends what year cherokee, some of the earlier will be short shaft and 21 spline. You will need medium or long shaft and 23 spline. ALL ZJ's are medium shaft, except for 93-95 V8's most of them are long. Mine was a long shaft but the 242 I put in was a medium shaft, we will see how that works. There is plenty of tranny output shaft engaging the TC input, so no issue of strength, the shaft just gets inside the seal as well. The reason I didn't swap the shafts was early vs late gear cut. The gear cut changed in 94/95 (no evidence to suggest EXACTLY when) and are not compatable.

You will not need to mess with driveshaft length.

HTH

Yardman Harry · Feb 16, 2006

thanks tim! i appreciate it. im actually pulling ithe 231 off of my 1990 cherokee. so is this too early? this will be a short shaft? and its no good for me?

as for the spline i can use the 23 spline from my 249 once i tear it apart? im sorry im such a newb at this

thanks for your help

EMTimZJ · Feb 16, 2006

That XJ will probably have the 21 spline, short shaft, early gearcut. You have the 23 spline, medium shaft, late gearcut. I *might* be able to give you my long early cut shaft, but don't count on it, I don't want to mess up your project if I don't have time.

Tranny shops, or some other yards might have what you are looking for, for a better price.:thumbsup:

HTH

Yardman Harry · Feb 16, 2006

thanks for all your help tim! man, theres more to this then i thought... which is discouraging. my apartments driveway isnt the right place to do it. man...

how long did it take for your conversion?

also your saying i will need this part http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/6110

and then i should be ok?

im such a newb, i read so many posts about this conversion and i am still finding out more and more, thanks again tim

EMTimZJ · Feb 16, 2006

My friend and I both had the day off. We started around noon, got the case out in about 1.5 hours, went to lunch for a while, came back, ran to Napa since I was given the wrong tranny output seal when I was gathering parts, had to disassemble part of the 249 to get the tailshaft snap ring that I had lost from the 242, put up the new case, adjusted the shifter linkage, messed around outside in the icy parking lot of the shop( varifying that 2wd and the other modes did work properly), came side, cleaned up, looked under the work vans and '66 t-bird and joked about throwing the 14bolt, D70, or Ford 9" under the ZJ... I think we locked up around 7pm. (so from 12-7 with at least 2.5 hours of not wrenching, lunch, Napa run, messing around, snapping photos) Compared to the plenum gasket this was a piece of cake.

Working wide open heated space made it easier. Also, I pretty much had the Jeep on all four tires the entire time. My lift I have (specs in sig) was enough for moving around under neath without needing it higher. Only time we jacked the wheels up was to spin the from driveshaft when removing the bolts.

We definately did not break any wrenching records, two people DEFINATELY makes it faster, easier, and safer. We used the air-wrench to remove the bolts on the skid plate and cross member, everything else was by hand. The 8mm wrench will help you remove the front driveshaft fromt the TC yoke faster. Having a 9/16 or 15mm wrench will help getting the 6 bolts started and then using a small ratchet and deepwell sockets to remove them the rest of the way. Also use the 9/16 or 15mm to manually shift the TC into each mode.

Yes that is the input gear I am refering too. I called a few tranny shops and they were less than that price. However, that site does not specify (at least I didn't see it) whether or not that is early or late gearcut, or what length the shaft is.

Yes there is some things to consider, reading through the information and crawling under the jeep to scope it out, really helped. Some of the steps are quick and easy, some take a little more time and muscle or use of leverage.

Feel free to ask as much as you would like:thumbsup:

HTH

39857 · Feb 16, 2006

Best write-up ever!
I love my 242
I can light them up in forward or reverse anytime I want, but I have not done it since I went to 33's, I am scared or grenading something.

Why no rebuild? I read that you opened the case and inspected all the parts, did you know the history of this case? Would it have been fairly easy to rebuild from a kit, as I am thinking of getting one and rebuilding it and dumping it in since mine binds. (Is hard to switch between 2wd and 4wd modes). It also leaks from the seal (you have pictured) so it's due to come out anyway.

Thanks again for such a great write-up and great pics, I bookmarked it.

Andy

SBlackfoot · Feb 16, 2006

If I may ask an unrelated question, your tranny mount looks just like mine (ie. different than the one in the parts catalogues). Have you had to find a replacement yet? I've been SOL so far for mine. The dealer is my next stop. Any suggestions?

anticrombie · Feb 16, 2006

jeepholic said:
Best write-up ever!
I love my 242
I can light them up in forward or reverse anytime I want, but I have not done it since I went to 33's, I am scared or grenading something.

Why no rebuild? I read that you opened the case and inspected all the parts, did you know the history of this case? Would it have been fairly easy to rebuild from a kit, as I am thinking of getting one and rebuilding it and dumping it in since mine binds. (Is hard to switch between 2wd and 4wd modes). It also leaks from the seal (you have pictured) so it's due to come out anyway.

Thanks again for such a great write-up and great pics, I bookmarked it.

Andy

This indeed is a great writeup. I think it should be stickied!

I'll have to remember this come time to put my 242 in. Even though I won't have taken out a 249, it'll help for putting one back in.

EMTimZJ · Feb 17, 2006

@Andy, I took just about every piece out of this case, cleaned it up, and looked it over. It was all in great condition. The guy I bought it said there was 70K on it. Who knows if it was right or not but there was not any worn or damaged parts. Everything shifted and turned just like it should. I decided a rebuilt was not necesary.:thumbsup:

@SBlackFoot, that is the factory "old" style tranny mount. It is a bit worn but isn't a problem at this time. I do not think they make the old style anymore, infact there is a "retro-fit" upgrade to the newer style. Here is a link to a picture of the newer style, note that is an aftermarket crossmenber/skid.

Charlie, get your 4x4 action going!:wave:

HTH

Yardman Harry · Feb 17, 2006

hey tim, thanks again for everything. I am getting a better grasp on things, (i think) so i think i am still going to pull the 231 this weekend, but wait to put it on untill mid summer. in the meantime ill clean her up and rebuild if necessary. as for the input shaft, the funny story is, in my xj the 4wd went on her, when you would engage 4wd and put any pressure on it it would pop and not move. so, that is the reason i took it off the road, i was in college and didnt have any time or money to figure out what was wrong. so i sold it to my brother in law.

he then changed the t case out with a new one from the junk yard, however i remember him telling me that he had a problem with the splines matching up, so he then went back to the junk yard and pulled the splines off of an older one. and threw away the one he didnt need, which ironically enough was probably the 23 spline.

thanks for your help again, now i have an idea of how long it should take, granted i know what i am doing. if i have any more qs i will of course ask. thanks again!!

zaq123 · Feb 17, 2006

Swamp Boy said:
Good Job Tim.. Where is the finished pic of it in 2WD??? :thumbsup:

Something like this...

Swampy,

Why did you ditch your 242 for 231?

249 -> 242 swap completed pics

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