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2M views 7K replies 423 participants last post by  Imped 
#1 · (Edited)
Alright guys, I figured I should start a build thread since it's the cool thing to do, and I've got some pretty cool stuff boiling up. I'll just post some pics for now and get posting on the progress as it....progresses.

First day I got it....20 degrees, top down, doors off. Still the best day of my life.


New meats. Bye bye chrome grill cover. Thank God.


RE BB, wheelin @ the Badlands...that's the famous "Pumpkinator" behind me.


Why they call me "Float Test"....


Hittin' up the wall that James (Pumpkinator) can't do....easily.


Chillin


RC 2.5" installed...not leveled, yet. Pics of that will be up later.


@ The Badlands again...this was the "Hurricane Ike" run




Me, Jeff, and Mike(Gribbles)
 
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#726 ·
I saw someone say that the MT/Rs run large for their size, and the Duratracs run small for their size. I thought KM2's ran to about 34". What are yours imped?
 
#727 ·
The KM2's run a bit small. They measure just a hair over 33.5" under the weight of the Jeep. They run very well when balanced and do excellent offroad. They wear extremely well. I'm at ~20,000 miles and they are only down to 16/32". New is 20/32". From what I've seen, MTR's run a bit truer to size. 33" MTR's sit more like 32" under weight.

In other news, Rod and I worked on the locker tonight. My electric impact wrench doesn't have enough balls to break loose the ring gear bolts so I've got to wait until tomorrow to bring the carrier over to a buddy's house that has air. Everything up to that point went nice and smooth. I also ordered up a new arm and joint from RK today. They gave me a nice deal for being a return customer.
 
#728 ·
My 31"s were 29" iirc. At 30lbs in the spare, it was 31" dead on (maybe a tad over).
 
#744 ·
I can't wait to see pics, and here is to hoping you get those arms by Friday:tea: Have they even shipped yet?
 
#749 ·
I just called RK. Scheduled to deliver tomorrow. And it's just one arm BTW. The other one is just dandy.
Pics Of the trimmed rubi flares?? I would really like to try to find a stock set of flares or rubi flares for mine to trim and then paint to match the jeep. But i can't bring myself to trim the original sahara flares on it because if i mess up I basically have no where to turn. I'd love to see the new trimmed ones with some measurements on the cuts you made.I know my jeep isn't getting any taller except maybe a spacer to level out the winch but would definitely love to see a little more tire clearance under the fenders.

Also do you have any clearance issues with your diff cover and front track bar? I've got a solid diff cover and it hits my track bar at/around the frame mount. I had an auto-zone replacement on there for a while but i have gone through 4 or 5 of those because the frame mount (which i think is a TRE ) gets worn out in about 3 months. Which I assume is from hitting the diff cover and damaging both. But i just replaced it with an Advance Auto MOOG track bar I'm hoping will last longer because it seems like a quality TRE and bushings.

Oh and what about the rear diff cover, my SOLID rear cover rubs my gas tank skid right on the smooth part above where the word SOLID is outlined on it. Do you have any issues there or since your arms are all adjustable is it pulled out of the way of hitting?
Between school, work, and a buddy's going away party, I haven't had any time to finish up the other flare or bolt the finished flare on. I'll post pictures when I get it done, which will likely be tomorrow. The finished flare looks great.

About the front track bar and diff cover--I run the Rockcrusher diff covers front and rear, which are considerably lower profile than stock. Even when I was running too-little bump stop up front, the diff cover and track bar never once met. At full bump (both sides), there was less than 1/8" between them and now that I've added another 2" of bump stop (and 1" of lift up front so I now have 1" more bump stop relative to lift height than I did with the RC coils) to prevent the tires from rubbing the fender lip, they will be totally safe. I would advise you to quit wasting money on track bars and properly bump stop the front end or get rid of the Solid diff cover. The rear diff cover and gas tank get very close at full bump but don't touch. If I had a Solid cover, they would definitely touch. It's taken A LOT of trial and error to maximize wheelbase while getting the bump stops perfectly set with no interference anywhere. When all is said and done, I'm @ 94" wheelbase with 4" of up travel up front and 4.5" in the rear with no interference anywhere. I'll take some good pictures for you after I get everything buttoned up this weekend.
 
#745 ·
If it comes in on friday, bring it and the jack over, we'll put it in, and I'll borrow the jack to put in those currie bumpstops finally. lol I might even be able to put the new brakes on. We'll see.
 
#748 ·
Pics Of the trimmed rubi flares?? I would really like to try to find a stock set of flares or rubi flares for mine to trim and then paint to match the jeep. But i can't bring myself to trim the original sahara flares on it because if i mess up I basically have no where to turn. I'd love to see the new trimmed ones with some measurements on the cuts you made.I know my jeep isn't getting any taller except maybe a spacer to level out the winch but would definitely love to see a little more tire clearance under the fenders.

Also do you have any clearance issues with your diff cover and front track bar? I've got a solid diff cover and it hits my track bar at/around the frame mount. I had an auto-zone replacement on there for a while but i have gone through 4 or 5 of those because the frame mount (which i think is a TRE ) gets worn out in about 3 months. Which I assume is from hitting the diff cover and damaging both. But i just replaced it with an Advance Auto MOOG track bar I'm hoping will last longer because it seems like a quality TRE and bushings.

Oh and what about the rear diff cover, my SOLID rear cover rubs my gas tank skid right on the smooth part above where the word SOLID is outlined on it. Do you have any issues there or since your arms are all adjustable is it pulled out of the way of hitting?
 
#751 ·
I didnt realize rockcrusher was smaller than solid. I thought they were basically the same. The only part that hits is the 'rib' on the top right when looking at the diff cover from head on. Luckily i haven't been wasting money on the track bars, when I first bought my jeep almost 3 years ago the front track bar was shot and i replaced it with the autozone one with life time warranty and before the new diff cover only had replaced it once. or twice But about 3 times now since last october adding the solid diff cover and decided to get a moog with a nicer bushing and TRE. Also, my jeep, at least i thought so, was already bumpstopped pretty well. Because my tires go up and literally just 'touch' my fenders on the inside but they dont hit or go any higher. I might need a little more obumpstop but just almost at ride height it looks like my track bar (near the frame mount) is real close to the rib on the diff cover as is.
-Any ideas on how important that rib is to strength? i was thining of maybe grinding that rib down and making it smaller so there is no more interference there. I dont really feel like spending more money on a different cover like a riddler or something especially since i got these on sale for 60 a piece and something like riddlers are double that. Worse case i'll go back to stock cover if i have to.

Thanks for the help and tips, Just trying to take care of these problems one by one as they come at me. Almost have my Jeep working all perfect just always finding some more little things haha I guess that how it always is though.
 
#755 ·
I'll probably just grind that rib down. Wont hurt anything because its already dented the rib from the track bar itself .
Also How much were those BDS coils? and where did you find them. I almost wouldnt mind just redoing my suspension from the beginning starting with coils and shocks and as money comes in the more expensive parts. Especially becasue my jeep is kinda heavy with a winch and spare tire/carrier
 
#758 ·
Looks like you need to hit them with some sand paper to even them up.

Edit: it does look good. We need daytime pics though.
 
#761 ·
Now that one looks good. I think it is the turns that is the hardest.
 
#762 ·
Well tonight sucked for me. At least everyone else got what they needed to get done.

While attempting to install the LED's, the hole saw bit wasn't cutting it and the mandrel bit wasn't keeping the hole saw centered. So, instead of cutting a nice round hole right where I wanted it, the hole saw wobbled all over the place and couldn't cut through, basically moving corner armor to the top of my list. I stopped and we put the factory lights back on.

Here's the best part--I started to pull the evap junk out so that we could drill on the passenger side. While putting it back in at home, I snapped a bit off of the gray valve bit. After looking, I believe it's called the "flow control valve" and is part of the fuel system. I am now unsure if it's safe to drive with this piece being broken. It also doesn't look like I can order this part from the dealer by itself. Hell, I can't find ANY info on this thing.

Any help would be appreciated. Tonight blew.
 
#763 ·
That sucks to hear man. If you are lucky, you can find it in the JY, or could bypass it and still get not codes (like Idaho Jeep did).
 
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