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Installing 3" hybrid lift

24K views 96 replies 25 participants last post by  mudb8 
#1 ·
Well, while many people are out at the Easter Safari in Moab, I am finally going to install my lift. After talking with mudb8, I have decided on this setup that I purchased from Rob's 4 Wheel Drive.

  • Nth 3.0" TJ Front Springs
  • Nth 3.0" TJ Rear Unlimited springs
  • OME n66L front shocks
  • OME n67 rear shocks
  • OME 2.5" rear track bar relocation bracket
  • currie ce9100 upper and lower adjustable JJ CA's
  • currie ce9122f 2" front bumpstop extensions
  • currie ce9120tjs hd front track bar
  • currie/jks ce9141 front disco's
  • currie ce9142 rear sway bar links
  • RE1385 rear bumpstop extensions



I just layed everything out and realized that the upper poly bumpstop was not in the box from Currie. (should be next to the small aluminum spacers) I have sent off an email and hopefully there will be no issues getting them sent over.

Not sure how long it will take me but it should be a great way for me to learn more about the TJ suspension. I have replaced other car suspensions so I know just enough to be dangerous.

Not a great pic since my driveway in angled but here is the stance right now



Will post more as the progress happens.
 
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#55 ·
If you want to know the pinion angle, measure from one of the two round flat spots on either side of the diff cover. It is exactly perpendicular to the pinion. For your single u-joint setup, you want the output and pinion angles to be parallel or very close to it. You're doing a great job and I commend you on your choice of parts. You'll love the control arms.
 
#56 ·
Any hints for getting the output angle without turning the driveshaft (or an easy way to turn it and get it straight)? The rear pinion angle is 10.5* based on the flat spot on the diff.

I got everything greased with Green Grease.

Now to check the toe-in. I made a really quick measurement last night and it came out to something outrageous (like 2") so I must have measured from the wrong spot.
 
#64 ·
Rear pinion - 8.5*

Output pinion - 6.5*
You mean in the rear? Yeah, I didn't really notice it until I looked at the picture on the computer. The rear arms are set to stock lengths right now. They were brought in about 3/4" from where Currie sets them for their 4" lift. I am going to see where the 33" sit and adjust then. Right now, I just want to drive it for a while and see if I notice any issues with the install. (you just can't trust cheap labor :rofl: )
eeewwww, 2* difference. you can dial that in much better with your adjustable arms. you want them to read the same angle since you have a single cardan shaft.
 
#66 ·
Well, I moved the lowers out 4 full turns (about 1" longer I think) and now the output shaft is at 6.5* and the pinion angle is at 6*
That should be good. Just make sure that, at full bump, that your diff cover isn't contacting the gas tank skid AND the tire isn't contacting the body. If both are the case, then there's no reason you shouldn't move the wheelbase back a bit more. If you wouldn't mind, post a picture with the new control arm lengths. You could probably move the front out a bit too but probably not a whole inch.
 
#96 ·
Update



Well, I just got back from driving ~3400 miles from Texas to Arizona and back. Went all over the state from Tuscon to Page (on the Utah border). I got the chance to do some wheeling in Sedona - what a great place to drive! For those who know the area, I ran Cliffhanger, Soldiers Pass, Broken Arrow and Powerline. I have also added UCF t-case/engine skids and a LOPRO tranny mount.

The LOPRO with the rubber isolators give quite a bit of vibe at idle. I told my wife that it is the massaging seat upgrade :rofl: She doesn't really like it but it doesn't bother me that much. I also have installed a Tuff Designs bumper/tire carrier/trail rack. I really struggled with the decision here due to some of the bad reviews on it but the jerry can placement and extra storage options was the best for me. I have two Scepter OD green MFC that are mounted in the swingout as well.

We had the Jeep packed full of stuff for the 10 day trip to AZ and while I didn't take a measurement of height, but there was minimal drop with 2 full MFCs, 5 Gal water, and luggage for 3 people, there was no space in the rear seat for another person and the back of the LJ was packed to the roof. The drive was pretty good but fully loaded, the 4.0L has a hard time keeping 75-85 through the hills in west Texas, NM and AZ. My wife told me I need a bigger engine :2thumbsup: Not sure what I want yet but it will likely be a stroker kit rather than deal with all the changes required for a HEMI/Chevy V8 option.

The suspension performed very well on the trails in Sedona. I only barely hit the corner of the rear bumper once and that is because I goosed the throttle on the way through a crevice on Broken Arrow. On the way to powerline, there is a long gravel washboard road that was absorbed very well by the progressive springs. At full stuff in the back, I noticed that I was about .25" from the ridge in the back of the wheel well. The 10.5" wheels stuff very nicely into the front corners as well. I climbed most everything without the rear locker engaged - there was a time on powerline that I needed the rear locker. The trails I ran were between 1-3.5+ for AZ ratings (2-7+ in the rest of the country) and I ran the tires at 22 psi. I am extremely pleased with the setup. The technical driving required to navigate a 7 rated trail is more than enough for me at this point. I had a bit of a "pucker moment" on powerline when my rear wheels didn't catch the step right and skipped me near the cliffside edge. Once the locker pump engaged the rear locker, I was able to walk up the step with minimal issues. I only had one nub on one of the rear tires that got ripped off during the trail runs.

I didn't take many pictures since I was having fun just running the trails but here is a pic of my son and I coming back down the slick rock on Soldier's Pass near the Devil's Kitchen

 
#63 ·
You mean in the rear? Yeah, I didn't really notice it until I looked at the picture on the computer. The rear arms are set to stock lengths right now. They were brought in about 3/4" from where Currie sets them for their 4" lift. I am going to see where the 33" sit and adjust then. Right now, I just want to drive it for a while and see if I notice any issues with the install. (you just can't trust cheap labor :rofl: )
 
#71 ·
Well, while many people are out at the Easter Safari in Moab, I am finally going to install my lift. After talking with mudb8, I have decided on this setup that I purchased from Rob's 4 Wheel Drive.

  • Nth 3.0" TJ Front Springs
  • Nth 3.0" TJ Rear Unlimited springs
  • OME n66L front shocks
  • OME n67 rear shocks
  • OME 2.5" rear track bar relocation bracket
  • currie ce9100 upper and lower adjustable JJ CA's
  • currie ce9122f 2" front bumpstop extensions
  • currie ce9120tjs hd front track bar
  • currie/jks ce9141 front disco's
  • currie ce9142 rear sway bar links
  • RE1385 rear bumpstop extensions

what did all this cost you, with shipping?
 
#73 ·
If you have the rear lowers out to 16 3/4"... don't extend them any further. when you goto a 33"-35" tire you'll find the reason for setting the lowers near stock length, Currie arms aren't designed to be run that long.

as for the front, set them @ 16" and 14 3/4 like I suggested, and you won't need to have the caster set. don't waste any time messing with an extra 1/4" of wheel base. It'll only cause you problems, For One, the diff will hit the JJ on the currie Track bar...

There's a reason for My madness, I fool with these things all the time.
 
#77 ·
I did want to get the pinion angle close to the output angle. I did a rough measure this morning (I didn't want to crawl under the rig in my work clothes) and it looks to be about 16 1/4-1/2. With the stock length at 15 7/8", maybe I only got the arms out another 3/4". Anyway, I think it is a little far (maybe 1/2 turn) and I may have my angles a little more close.

I left the front alone, I figured it looked good there.

What's the special secret I will learn with shorter arms and 33-35" tires on this setup?
 
#78 ·
Drive review update:

I ran it along the neighborhood streets before I lengthened the rear lower arms and I could feel a vibration in my lumbar that I didn't notice before. This would start around 35-40mph. After making the arms longer, that vibration went away. I got it out on the highway last night and had a couple of interesting developments. I used to have a shimmy in my steering wheel from 48-55 mph. The rig would not shake, just the steering wheel. That has been totally resolved! On the first highway run, I got up to 65mph ad started to notice a feeling like the jeep was light in the front. When I would hit little rough spots in the road and the body seemed to vibrate opposite of the lower suspension - a lateral movement rotating about a virtual point in the middle of the front springs. I hit one small rough spot and it through the front end into a frenzy! I took my foot off the pedal and the vibrations slowed down. I kept driving but realized I had developed a death grip on the wheel. I have since been up to 75 mph and while it still feels a little unstable, it is no where near as bad. I will keep an eye on this and see if it continues to go away. I have replaced the steering shimmy with some kind of pulsating vibration under my seat over 62mph. It is a vibe that varies in intensity like a sine wave. The cycle is about 2-3 sec from low vibe to high vibe to low vibe. Again, it is not a change in the frequency of the vibe, just the intensity of the vibe that I feel. Does this indicate that I might need new U-joints? I didn't notice any play in the joints when I was under there last night.

More spring feedback. The rear springs are quite quick in increasing spring rate. The fronts seem to have more travel before you get feedback from the springs. Brings out the fact there is some tightening I need to do on the back door hinges. The arms give a great deal of road feedback. Much more than the stock arms. This is probably due to the JJ vs rubber. I am used to this from poly and brozoil high performance suspension and shifter parts. Some people will definitely not like this type of ride. I also still have load E stock MTR tires and they will probably need to be deflated a bit to absorb some of this. The next tires I will be buying are load D. I have decided not to go with load C since I want more sidewall strength and better road wear in general.
 
#80 ·
Drive review update:

I ran it along the neighborhood streets before I lengthened the rear lower arms and I could feel a vibration in my lumbar that I didn't notice before. This would start around 35-40mph. After making the arms longer, that vibration went away. I got it out on the highway last night and had a couple of interesting developments. I used to have a shimmy in my steering wheel from 48-55 mph. The rig would not shake, just the steering wheel. That has been totally resolved! On the first highway run, I got up to 65mph ad started to notice a feeling like the jeep was light in the front. When I would hit little rough spots in the road and the body seemed to vibrate opposite of the lower suspension - a lateral movement rotating about a virtual point in the middle of the front springs. I hit one small rough spot and it through the front end into a frenzy! I took my foot off the pedal and the vibrations slowed down. I kept driving but realized I had developed a death grip on the wheel. I have since been up to 75 mph and while it still feels a little unstable, it is no where near as bad. I will keep an eye on this and see if it continues to go away. I have replaced the steering shimmy with some kind of pulsating vibration under my seat over 62mph. It is a vibe that varies in intensity like a sine wave. The cycle is about 2-3 sec from low vibe to high vibe to low vibe. Again, it is not a change in the frequency of the vibe, just the intensity of the vibe that I feel. Does this indicate that I might need new U-joints? I didn't notice any play in the joints when I was under there last night.

More spring feedback. The rear springs are quite quick in increasing spring rate. The fronts seem to have more travel before you get feedback from the springs. Brings out the fact there is some tightening I need to do on the back door hinges. The arms give a great deal of road feedback. Much more than the stock arms. This is probably due to the JJ vs rubber. I am used to this from poly and brozoil high performance suspension and shifter parts. Some people will definitely not like this type of ride. I also still have load E stock MTR tires and they will probably need to be deflated a bit to absorb some of this. The next tires I will be buying are load D. I have decided not to go with load C since I want more sidewall strength and better road wear in general.
OK, I'll help you out with your issues--

The vibes--check front and rear pinion angles. You want the front pinion angle, since it's a double cardan shaft, to be a degree or two below the driveshaft angle. Measure at one of the two flat spots on either side of the diff for the pinion angle and just put the angle finder on the drive shaft for the shaft angle. For the rear, how many degrees are the u joints seeing--ie, what's the difference between the shaft angle and rear output/pinion angle? Try to get those two (rear output and pinion angle) identical.

The wobble--Check to make sure all of the control arm bolts are nice and tight. Then have someone turn the steering wheel (with the engine off) back and forth while you watch the ends of the front track bar and all other front end joints. Keep an eye on the axle end-- if it moves, that's a problem. I'd recommend replacing the factory bolt with a grade 12.9 M10 bolt. You can pick one up at a good hardware store. It will fit the bushing sleeve tighter and it's also much stronger than the stock bolt and can be tightened much tighter.
 
#95 ·
I wouldn't have mentioned it If I hadn't had to fix a couple.....

I had to put a CV shaft on cb3's rubi with OME 2.5" coils to avoid dropping the skid.
 
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