Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

So you want a Tummy Tuck...

391K views 1K replies 219 participants last post by  SouthernGypsy 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
So you want a Tummy Tuck

I am aware there is a thread out there similar to this in the fact that it list some of the facts about several skids on the market, but this one is complete and it just for setting up a tummy tuck. This thread will be devoted to the TJ, as this is the TJ Technical Forum and that is what most have on here. LJ's are a bit different when it comes to driveshaft requirements, but most principles still apply.

Everyone thinks they need a tummy tuck these days. They are very useful off road and even make a TJ look better because you are no longer seeing the ugly shovel. A tummy tuck takes more than just several hundred bucks to buy one, there are other things that have to be dealt with. Most decide they don't need one when they figure out how much it will cost. The stock skid not the stoutest, but will hold up to mild wheeling, and comes in at 41.5 lbs.

Depending on the Jeep you have and which route you intend on going you might need one or more of these for your tummy tuck:

1" Body Lift- All depends on how much hammering (or 'modification') you want to do on the transmission tunnel. There are various routes to go with body lifts which include JKS ($135), Daystar, Performance Accessories, Currie, etc. It seems like everyone is scared to do one of these[, whether it be due to looks or difficulty of installation.] I have seen at least 30 posts asking if they can get away with doing such and such skid without one. A lot of people that are concerned with performance think that every Jeep should have came with one from the factory. The 1" body lift is hardly noticeable and will allow other mods like a high clearance gas tank skid. They also help lift the body without changing the COG very much, reducing the amount of bumpstop you need to clear a given tire size.

Motor Mount Lift (MML)- Is needed when doing any high clearance t-case skid on a Jeep that has a suspension lift of 2" or more. Stockers can usually get away with out it, but if you are doing a tummy tuck chances are you aren't keeping the stock suspension height. The reason this needs to be done is when you are stuffing your tranny and tcase farther up you want to tilt the output shaft of the tcase down to help with the geometry you are messing with. By bringing the front of the engine up, you will be able to tilt the output shaft of the tcase down. There are various ways to lift your motor which include JKS(spacers-$60), Brown Dog(full replacement-$84), and M.O.R.E(full replacement-$139). If you choose new motor mounts instead of the spacers, get the rubber bushing versions to reduce engine vibrations. Poly bushings **can** transmit more engine vibrations, but they greatly reduce engine movement and will not degrade as fast as rubber. Rubber's lifespan is usually a few decades...so its your choice.

Double Cardan Driveshaft- Is needed when doing any skid on a Jeep that has been lifted 1.5- 2" or more via its suspension. Stockers can usually get away without it, but if you are doing a tummy tuck chances are you aren't keeping the stock suspension height. Will be needed, Rubicon or not. There are a few out there (Currie, Teraflex, ect, but only one that I would go with- Tom Woods which run around $315 (Quadratec).

Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE)- Is needed when doing any skid on a Jeep that has been lifted 1.5-2" or more via its suspension. Stockers can usually get away without it, but if you are doing a tummy tuck chances are you aren't keeping the stock suspension height. If you have a Rubicon, you will not need one of these. Many people say that the Rubicon already has an SYE, but that is incorrect. It would have to have a slip yoke in the first place to elimininate it - Rubicons have fixed flange rear outputs. There are several good kits on the market such as Advance Adapters ($270 Quadratec), JB Conversions($300-$400), Rubicon Express ($330)

Rear upper adjustable control arms- Will be needed to rotate your pinion upward. There will be some fine tuning to eliminate driveshaft vibrations. Rokmen and Currie are the only ones I would consider when dropping money on them as of right now. Rokmen-$249. Currie- ($229)

More info on SYE/CV shafts & pinion angle: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/what-cv-shaft-why-do-i-want-one-854790/

CV trackbar bracket-This angled bracket will be needed for your trackbar when rotating the pinion. With out this bracket your stock or adjustable trackbar will bind. Rubicon Express-$70

Rear lower shock mount extenders- When rotating your pinion up, you will find that the can of your shock (if you have piston down, you may not have this problem) will rub the axle. Some extensions like those from Currie-$30 will get the job done. If you're looking for maximum flex, this is a good time to consider shock mount relocation to use long travel shocks - read here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/low-lift-long-shocks-diy-shock-shifters-whats-advantage-852221/

Spring perch modications- Will sometimes have to be done, but I personally have not seen a Jeep that has absolutely needed it. Rotating the pinion will cause the spring sit a bit different- resulting in the spring trying to arc...meaning the bumpstops will no longer align. This mod is not absolutely necessary with smaller lift heights, and mainly helps suspension geometry on taller lifts.
Read Humbolt's write up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/outboarding-rear-shocks-upper-spring-bucket-relocation-929056/
Also see this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/rear-spring-relocator-kit-856163/

Transfer case bracket- Anyone that knows transfer case brackets know that Novak ($150) is in the top of the game. There are others out there like the one from Advance Adapters or Skyjacker that are cheaper alternatives, but just doesn't work like the Novak. The stock shift lever can often be used when a TT is install in conjunction with a MML & BL, since these keep the drivetrain and accessory angles as close to stock as possible.

Skids

Kilby- I really haven't seen many people run this skid, but looks to be well made. Skid is made from 3/16" bare steel (you will need to paint or powdercoat it). Skid can be done without a body lift. Incorporates Rubicon locker pump mount. Clearance gains?
Weight- 38lbs
Price- $340

AEV- I haven't seen one complaint with this skid. Skid is made from 1/4'' gusseted steel and 2.75" more clearance is possible with this skid, but where the tcase sits it has less clearance. Uses a super low-profile tranny mount. Skid comes with flat bolts that cannot hang up on rocks and comes powdercoated. Skid can be done without a body lift, but 42RLE auto owners might need to 'modify' the firewall/trans tunnel. Incorporates Rubicon locker pump mount.
Weight- ?
Price- $529

Rokmen- Beautiful skid, best tig welding I've seen for mass production Skid is made from 1/4" laser cut bare steel (you paint it) that is CNC formed. Gains of 2.25" will be seen. Uses stock tranny mount. Body lift is suggested. I have seen the back of this skid bend from mild wheeling, but this skid provides one of the best all around deals.
Weight-?
Price- $344. +$20 for Rubicon locker pump mount.

Clayton- This skid uses the 2 piece design. I haven't seen many people use this skid. It might have something to do with it only advertising .5" gain for 97-02 and 1" gain for 03-06 Wranglers. Uses 3/16" steel for the cradle and 1/4" for the skid plate. Comes with a finish, but not specific. Works with their long arm set up if you ever decide to go that route.

Price- $475
Weight- ?

Skyjacker- Zinc coated skid made from 3/16" steel with gusseted corners. Comes with shifter bracket. Gain in clearance is not specified. Only made for 97-02 Wranglers. Body lift required
Price- $410 (Quadratec)
Weight-?

Teraflex- Up to 2 3/8" gain. Made from 3/16" steel. Body lift recommended for Rubicon. Comes with finish, but not specific. Comes with a 5/8" MML.
Price- $450 + Rubicon compressor mount for Rubicons
Weight- 79 lbs

Under Cover Fabworks- Made for 97-06 Wranglers, the skid is fabricated from 3/16" thick carbon steel plate (with optional upgrade to 1/4" plate). The parts were designed in 3D CAD software and laser cut then bent on a CNC press brake. The UCF Transfer Case Skid Plate is reinforced in the middle of the skid from one side to the other with a stiffening channel/transmission mount. The front and rear edges are ramped to increase strength and aid in sliding over obstacles. Clearance gains of about 2" over the factory skid plate will be seen. The total height of this skid is about 2". Skid comes bare and does not include hardware.
Price- $169 for 3/16 and $229 for 1/4"
Weight- 60lbs (Im guessing for the 1/4")
New:
Under Cover Fabworks has released a skid that has the exact characteristics of the steel skids they produce, except they will be offered in 304 Stainless and 6061-T6 Aluminum.
Price- $329: 1/4" Aluminum
Weight-26 lbs

33 Engineering- As far as I know they are out of business, if you can still find one it is the 1 of only skid made that can be dropped without supporting the tranny. It uses a crossmember and a skid that is bolted to it. 2.75" of added clearance are said to be gained from the skid. that was ordered bare or powdered. 1" body lift required.

Never buy anything directly from these guys or anything that will be drop shipped from them. Buy from people that have the skid in stock or do not buy at all.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f176/offroadtoystore-33-engineering-kaput-so-my-dough-811839/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f176/dont-buy-anything-offroadtoystore-com-809307/index2.html
Offroad Toy Store Reviews

Price-?
Weight-?

Jeepmedic-. Although no longer in business, you may be able to find one used. Skid is made from 1/4" gusseted steel with quality powdercoating. Gains of 2.25" will be seen from this beefy skid. Reuses stock trans mount and includes Rubicon locker pump mount. This was regarded as the best skid on the market at the time JeepMedic closed.

Price - ~$200-400 used in good condition
Weight-?

Goferit- Im not sure if these guys are still around. There isn't much info about these skids and not many people run them. Steel thickness? Clearance?
Price?
Weight?

Savvy Offroad- Everyone is talking about this skid. Will be made from aluminum and there has been word that it will be a completely flat skid. This not only will have the highest clearance, it will have a chance (with the UCF skid) to be the lightest of any skid listed. Savvy has some competitive pricing so I like most people I can wait to see this thing. You will most defiantly have to run a body lift if this skid is flat or do some serious modding to the tub.
Clearance gain-?
Price-?
Weight-?

*Exhaust mod- For every skid listed you will likely have to mod your exhaust so it will not contact the skid and or the lower control arm. Some people can get this done by themselves while others need to go to an exhaust shop. Going to an exhaust shop usually isn't too expensive for this fairly simple mod.

*BL or No-Some skids say body lift required or recommended, but can be done with out with enough hammering on the tranny tunnel as stated in the beginning. While most skids can be done without a body lift, you are tucking the transfer case closer to the body. There will be more noise as well as more heat coming from the exhaust as well as the tcase transferred to the floor board. Keep in mind - with a tummy tuck you are lifting the entire drivetrain up 2" or more - meaning you're changing the output shaft angle and you need to make room for the relocated components. The easiest way to do this is a 1" MML + BL.

*Prices are from the manufacturer unless stated otherwise

Do the math on the products you need for your specific Jeep, can you afford a Tummy Tuck?? Do you play in the rocks enough to justify one? If there are any errors or anything that needs to be added, let me know. Thanks. Thank you Unlimited04 for your help.
 
See less See more
#137 ·
That actually looks really good. I think if it weren't for the fact that savvy is supposed to be 4"+, and I don't want to do it twice, I might have actually bought that.
 
#139 ·
Man, I'd be all over that UCF aluminum skid like stink on you know what if it only did not Require a body lift to be used. :(

Not an option in my book.

.
I bet you could make it fit by dimpling the tub, or using a low profile trans mount. There are ways to get things done.
 
#140 ·
i'm new to working on my jeep, i'm looking at tummy tucking. I have a 06 TJ, with 4"lift, 1.25" bl, automatic, skyjacker tranfercase shifter, SYE, and that damn huge shovel underneath, i noticed a steel spacer between the frame and the skidplate. If I remove that spacer, will I have issues? I'd like to flatten it out, but have to wait to buy or make a new plate. Just getting ready to start project....
 
#143 ·
x2 on the tig welds. The only thing that I notice is that the skid seems short. Look at the cutout for the front ds. It is such a small cutout that it can't go are far towards the tranny as other skids do.
 
#145 ·
Guys Im pretty sure that is aluminum spool gun mig welding that you are seeing, I will chech into it to get a for sure answer.

Also, MrBlaine, that is pure class to compliment a competitor like that.

:tea:
 
#147 ·
Guys Im pretty sure that is aluminum spool gun mig welding that you are seeing, I will chech into it to get a for sure answer.

Also, MrBlaine, that is pure class to compliment a competitor like that.

:tea:
If I had to guess, I would say that the welds that hold the crossmember to the skid are spool gun and the corners are Tig. ;)
 
#148 ·
Now that welder does some real Purty work. That's stacking em up like dimes. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

.
The weldor has the welder set up pretty nicely and not that it makes enough difference for the folks here to understand, but the DIME thing is a function of how you Tig and is nice there but for the Mig, not so much.
 
#149 ·
Seeing as how I'm already on my second oil pan, I'm a big fan of oil pan skid plates.

Has anyone had any success adding an oil pan skid to the undercover fab skid? Just from the pictures, it looks like it could be difficult fitting, for example, the skid row skid I currently have.

How about Savvy? I can't remember anything about an added oil pan skid or not.
 
#150 ·
How about Savvy? I can't remember anything about an added oil pan skid or not.
We will have everything with the skid that it takes to do the job. Engine skid, belly skid, trans crossmember, exhaust relocation bracket, motor mount lift, and engine skid mount. Complete system that works together.
 
#156 ·
so tell us, are we going to buy a savvy tt kit with a mml and a bl all together and only together? for those of us that already has a bl and mml, just tell us now so we'll stop waiting for this skid to come out. It's aready been 5 months and now i'm worried about the cost. if the only way to get it is to buy stuff I already have.
 
#161 ·
Wow, that aluminum skid by Undercover Fab is REALLY nice lookin.....I'll hopefully be able to purchase my skid in the next week....sure would be nice to compare it to that Savvy one.....if we ever see it.......
 
#164 ·
There are many people who are interested in the savvy TT because of what little about it has already been released. In addition there are some concerns for those that have already invested in some of the parts which the kit may be providing. Now a company is certainly under no obligation to release any information to potential customers. Some may believe it may also be giving a heads up to its competitors, however in the interest of customer service, promotion, and business survivability it would seem that a company interested in selling products would give a more detailed heads up of things to come.

Other manufacturers and private folks for that matter are going to be quick to jump on the bandwagon. They are on these forums as well and see what folks are interested in getting. A company who puts a great deal of time and effort into producing the best products is always appreciated but I think its important to keep the consumer updated on exactly what they are waiting for. This product may not be the best for everyone and if someone waits for 6months for something they think is going to be a must have purchase only to find out its not for whatever reason that may turn someone off to the company as a whole.

I know I have certain modifications that I am goingto be doing to my jeep which require me to take things apart and install things a certain way. I do not like duplicating work and effort nor do I want to purchase things I dont need, cant use or are not going work with other products.

I have already purchased a savvy tank skid and in order to run it in its highest position a 1'' BL is needed. SO I bought one. Then I discovered a 1.25'' bodylift will be needed for the TT. So I returned the 1' BL. I emailed Gerald, he said wait because a bodylift will be provided. However in order to install my rear corners I need to remove components of the gas tank so that would be the time to do the skid as well but in order to run it at its highest position I need a BL so Gerald said I could purchase a 1.25'' BL and would be fine but now I find out the motor mounts I purchased in order to do the BL are probably not going to work with the skid.

So in all seriousness as a customer who wants to provide a new company with his hard earned dollars you can see the frustration beginning to develope. This is how companies get bad reputations and it boils down to communication.

You see threads all over asking legitimate questions such as when will LJ corners be offered? Questions about front and rear bumpers, tire carriers, the TT etc.... None of which ever seem to be fully addressed.

I am new to customizing my jeep and am trying to make the best most informed decisions I can about how to properly set up my jeep but in order to do that I need timely accurate information. I don't think anybody is asking for detailed plans on how the kit is manufacturered but a little information (preferably on the savvy site) would be greatly appreciated by those of us who would really like to support savvy by purchasing their products.

Many sites have a section where upcoming products are talked about what they are what they will do and why you should buy them or in some cases wait for them to be made, and of course when they are expected to be available. I think its good business and it would certainly be more effective than trying to field 50 questions on 12 different threads. Maybe even a blog of sorts.

Not telling anyone how to do business just giving my opinion as a consumer and customer.

Thanks

Rob
 
#168 ·
Maybe its time to rename the company.....
 
#170 ·
Savvy is not a huge company with a research and development department and a sales team and a billing department, shipping department and 30 guys working there. It's a couple of guys that know there stuff that's trying to get a company started while maintaining there lives.

They could easily sell there skid right now and get a bunch of complaints because it's not ready yet. A lot of companies do it, they gain capital and are able to produce a better product.

Savvy is trying to do it right the first time, I think it's a good call, from what I've seen and heard so far there "system" will be pretty slick.

There's not 1 single tummy tuck, or suspension lift, or any other jeep part that will work for everyone, that's why there's so many companies that each make a different variation of the same part.

Oh and yeah Blaine is a big jerk blah blah everyone knows that, it's just how he is and he's not going anywhere so we can either deal with it or leave.

Do I like Blaine? No

Do I respect him? Without a doubt, he knows his stuff and I agree with 95% of what he has to say. If I ever meet him I'm going to call him an A-hole then tell him how much I like his work.
 
#172 ·
The issue is not releasing a product that is not ready. They are under no obligation to release anything, ever. In addition it doesnt matter if its one guy in a studio apartment or 10,000 employees at offices nationwide if your going to run a business then the consumer is going to have wants and needs that WILL be addressed properly or that consumer WILL go elsewhere. How that specific issue is addressed is crucial to a businesses success. You can do everything in your power to address those wants and needs in an acceptable fashion or you can say this is how it is take it or leave it.

Who do you want to give your money to? Its just business.
 
#173 ·
I'm failing to understand the hostility towards blaine here. First and foremost, blaine is very knowledgeable and does excellent work. He also helps people on the forums. That alone should command respect. He may not be as "direct" as some and that's fine with me. I appreciate his attitude and sense of humor. As far as I'm concerned, most of us are men here. If you can't take a little sarcasm and smartass comments, go hang out on pirate then come back.

As far as Savvy goes, blaine can run it however he wants and until any of you come out with better products, you have no place to give advice about how he handles his company, his products, or his promotion for other products. I'm sure he doesn't agree with many of your comments, as well.

I don't own any Savvy products and I likely won't be buying the TT "kit" due to the fact that I'm interested in a flat skid, that's it. I'm comfortable doing the other modifications to make room myself. With that said, I'm sure the kit will rock for those of you that buy it.
 
#174 ·
I don't think I have read a post in this thread where anyone has told anyone how to run their company or a company. In my posts I simply stated some simple common sense principles as they relate to business. As has already been stated this is a forum, an open forum where people can discuss or share whatever they like so long as its done in a civil manner. Now if you operate a business common sense would dicate you need to TRY to keep those customers happy. Certainly you cant please everyone but if you dont try you wont please anyone and you wont be in business. Thats just common sense. No hostility involved just matter of fact.

I have already purchased savvy products and would like to purchase more. I don't design jeep products and have no desire too. Thats why I look towards other companies such as savvy to provide products at a fair price that will fill my needs as a consumer. That said there is more to filling a consumers needs than simply bringing a good product to market.
 
#176 ·
mrblaine, keep doing what your doing. Your going to anyways, all the stuff you have come out with or help develop is better than anything else on the market, so I don’t care if you have a vendor account on here, Gerald does and that’s good enough for me since you don’t advertise on here.


mrblaine refers to van's brakes, and tells people to talk to van. He has never tried to sell anything on here, because he can’t. He doesn’t work for Van, so selling Van's parts would be impossible.


Get over the mrblaine has a crappy attitude or whatever your beef is, taking it to PM is a bad idea too. He isn’t nice here, and he's not nice there either. Grow up, take the sarcasm and rudeness like a man.


I work in a machine shop, you let it roll off of you, or you find a new job. Maybe if you cant take it, find a new forum, like someone suggested earlier, try pirate4x4. You'll be back here pretty quick!


I am waiting on savvy's TT, I have held off on all mods in hopes to do "all" of it at once, if I get 3 inches of skid clearance, I wouldn’t need a bigger lift, so ill wait on everything.


If the money is burning a hole in your pocket, donate it to mrblaines jeepforum account; maybe he will become a vendor that way!!
 
#183 ·
Good call rubidriver....to get back onto track...

Does the amount of body lift required directly correlate to the amount of TT ground clearance gain?

For example...if your kit brags a 4" higher belly than stock and you only have a 1" body lift; where is that other 3" coming from (without pounding on the tranny tunnel)?
 
#182 ·
For those who don't want a body lift, I got a PM from Matt over at undercover fab in regards to some comments I made in another thread. He said that he could also do a skid that was 1" deeper than normal. Then you should be ok without the bodylift. Keep in mind that you will only be gaining about an inch of clearance at that point. But since this skid is a smother design than the factory skid that might be enough to slider over things easier. I know I am considering it.
 
#185 ·
After a certian amount there is a correlation. If you can get 2" with no BL and there is 1 cm of clearance between the tcase and tub for instance, then you will need a 1" BL to get 3" and so on. There's only so high you can go because you cannot tuck your frame.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top