My WJ, with 3.5in lift, happens to have a front drive shaft with a CV joint at both the transfer case and front yoke end. A new OEM drive shaft from NAPA is listed at $399. To keep it cheap I went to a local salvage yard in Durham last week and they brought out a drive shaft with a CV on one end and u-joint on the other, saying this should fit. While this didn't match mine, it did get me thinking about possibly using this opportunity to move towards something better.
This Tom Wood setup below, for N247 or N249 t-cases, costs $429.00
Drive shaft: $299
CV conversion at the yoke (front) end: $55
CV conversion at the transfer case: $75
*** This drive shaft assembly places a double cardan joint at the t-case and u-joint up front at the front yoke. As is always possible, you could spend more by moving to having a double cardan joint at both ends, but it's a heavier unit that's also tougher to balance.
I may move to 4in springs rather than a spring/BB combo setup later, but don't foresee doing any heavy off-roading with my primary vehicle. Would I be alright by buying Tom's yoke conversion and just move the CV & U-joint OEM shaft available...which will be a whole lot cheaper...or spending the $400+ for the Tom Woods package above?
This Tom Wood setup below, for N247 or N249 t-cases, costs $429.00
Drive shaft: $299
CV conversion at the yoke (front) end: $55
CV conversion at the transfer case: $75
*** This drive shaft assembly places a double cardan joint at the t-case and u-joint up front at the front yoke. As is always possible, you could spend more by moving to having a double cardan joint at both ends, but it's a heavier unit that's also tougher to balance.
I may move to 4in springs rather than a spring/BB combo setup later, but don't foresee doing any heavy off-roading with my primary vehicle. Would I be alright by buying Tom's yoke conversion and just move the CV & U-joint OEM shaft available...which will be a whole lot cheaper...or spending the $400+ for the Tom Woods package above?