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95 YJ stretch

14K views 43 replies 11 participants last post by  hondacr21 
#1 ·
well I guess it is about that time to put some XJ springs in the rear and stretch it some, and had a few questions. I have an 8.8 in the rear and I know the gas tank gets in the way of the axle and seen Genrights tank and skid plate for about 7-800 dollars which I refuse to buy, I seen a guy on Pirate that heated the stock tank and fabbed alittle on the stock skid plate and made it work and worked well I suppose and first handers on doing this. Also been looking around on which company to get comp corners from. Is there any real difference other than a preferred name? I will have to extend my rear wrap bar and driveshaft of course. I am just goin to weld new rear spring hangers on my rear bumper. Is there a company that sells the swing hangers with bushings that weld on, I am sure that is some type of universal 2.5" spring hangers out there. And I read that you add another main leaf in the xj packs I believe. What else am I missing?
 
#2 ·
Blue Torch Fab makes a rear stretch kit specifically for use with XJ leafs.

Blue Torch FabWorks, Inc.

I was yacking with one of my wheeling friends, Blaine (mrblaine here on JF & part owner of Savvy Offroad Savvy Off-Road ) on the phone a couple weeks ago & asked him some questions concerning upcoming products.

Savvy was working on some new YJ rear corner blanks. Feel free to call Blaine or Gerald at Savvy for more info.

Office (949) 795-0909
 
#3 ·
I used Ruffstuff specialties way back shackle hanger.
Way Back Shackle Hanger [0690070] - $46.00
Measure your spring bushings before you order. The XJ spring with the bushing in it is a little wider than the YJ.
Read this post on Pirate.
Shackle problem? - YJ's with XJ springs - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
I cut my rear crossmember off and made one out of heavy wall 2x4. I used this post to make it.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/custom-rear-frame-cross-member-442274/
I had a MORE traction bar that I tried to extend but it did not work out, I ended up making my own.
For the gas tank I used a RCI that fits behind the seat and used the stock fuel pump and sending unit. I also sank it down in the tub so I could build a tool box above it.
I also cut my spring perches off to adjust my pinion angle. Not sure if you will have to do this or not. The biggest reason I did it was because I was running shims and wanted to get rid of them.
Also relocated the upper shock mounts.
I used Sniper fabs rear corners because my fenders had been cut for TJ flares and I could not cut out the rear of the tub and make it look right.
This was not a weekend project. Well not for me at least.
 
#12 ·
Do you have any pics of the fuel cell mounted, I am kinda curious on how you did it.
 
#4 ·
what was the problem with trying to extend the MORE bar because that is what I have. as far axle perches I will just buy another set of Blue Torch Fab's. What as the reasoning for making a new rear crossmember or did you just feel like doing it? Do you have any pics of your YJ?
 
#5 ·
Wanted the rear cross member to be a little more beefy. Also needed tow points.
I just did not trust the traction bar. You may be able to do a better job than I did.
I also added a separate mount for the traction bar. I had it mounted to the stock skid before.
I did a belly up so I could not mount it there again.
Oh and for the added main leaf I bought new springs and used a old set for the added main spring. Cut the small end off, cut a little off of the big end. Just enough to slip the big end over the small end of the pack I was using.
I also had to drill a new hole in it for the leaf spring bolt.
Some pictures. Sorry do not have alot. Can take more on Tuesday if you need more.
I put my shackle mounts high on the rear cross member so I did not get any lift from it.




Before corners

After
 
#6 ·
looks bad ***, where did you get your new springs? And I assume they are just replacements not lift springs?
 
#9 ·
it is and will be SOA, and i have an 8.8 so i figured it will eat the tank skid plate.
 
#11 ·
its funny you mention the thread on bending the stock tank. everyone thought it was really original including the poster. i did mine a couple years prior. i used a torch and small sledge hammer. it takes a bit of work but you can heat the tank until it gets flexible. you still need to weld in a "reversed" insert into the tank skid. even with the indent formed into the tank when you fill it, the gas will push it back out so the steel piece will keep this from happening. with that said i dont think you can make a big enough indent to accommodate such a large stretch. i did mine to stretch 2".
 
#14 ·
I used the RCI cell. It is the same one Plato2k5 has pictured.
Cut out the rear floor and ran fuel lines.

Made a cross member that is welded to the frame the back is welded to the rear crossmember. There is a plate that is attached to the two that holds the fuel cell in place. This picture is before the rear stretch. The plate is not connected on the rear crossmember at this time.

Cut a hole in the fuel cell for the stock pump and sending unit.


In place


This is why I sank it down. Tool box
 
#15 ·
As you can see from the last picture that cell is held down with straps. There is also a rubber mat under it and in between the straps and cell.
 
#16 ·
yes, definatly do not just bolt it down with the 4 tabs. They are not strong enough by themselves.

I used threaded rod. Welded a nut on the one side and fed it from under the jeep. Than used a nut to fasten the lower tabs down, than made a cradle to hold the top and compress the cell so its snug.

 
#17 ·
so when getting this cell, I assume you get one that does not have a sending unit and sump. You remember the part number by chance? Summit is about 30 minutes away from my house, so the next time I am up there I will just grab one. An I assume you just open up the tailgate to fuel up? And does the cab smell like gas fumes being that it is inside the rig?
 
#18 ·
#19 ·
you just cap off all the ports on the cell other than the breather since you ran your stock pump/sender? What ya cut the hole in the cell with for the pump/sender and did ya just use the factory type seal?
 
#20 ·
how does it handle on the street?
 
#21 ·
There are 3 ports that are located on the top. Fuel out (to engine), Vent (has a check ball for rollover), and Fuel in (back to the cell from pump). The stock pickup is JUNK! If your off-road it does not like having under 3 gallons or so. People take the stock pickup out of the jeep and cut a hole on the top of the cell and put theirs in. This is what I'm going to do mid winter. I run an external fuel pump that sites under the jeep. I have zero issues. You will get the fuel smell unless you mount the vent line to somewhere outside the jeep.
 
#22 ·
Anyone got a part # for the fittings need to go from a -8AN SS line to the fuel rail on 4.0L I figure I might as well run all new lines to and from the motor. Just cant seem to find the adapter needed.
 
#23 ·
Well finally got it started heres a few pics so far. Used Sniper fab with 3" flare, moved both shackles back using YJ springs, wheelbase is just over 101"







 
#24 ·
where did you get the rear spring mounts. its really looking good!!! i think this is going to be my next project!! and i wanna do the same thing as you by using the yj springs and moving the front mounts rearward. :thumbsup:
 
#25 ·
#27 ·
got everything but i am short on some fuel line, I am doin the measuring tomorrow and probably head back up to Summit to get the rest of my fuel line other than that I should have everything for the fuel done, Got two of the Walbro pickups in the tank across from each other, and a Walbro GSL392 inline pump.
 
#28 ·
Got the rear stinger put on tonight ordered itfrom Jeeptubes.com real nice kit actually went together pretty good, still need to cut the extra axle shaft for the spare tire off and smooth out the welds.





 
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