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Hy-Lo-Jeep Hydraulic Pump?

12K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  ACAD_Cowboy 
#1 · (Edited)
Picked up a snow blade for my cj7 the other day, and this pump came with it, not really sure what it is. Does anyone know what it's actually for, or what it might actually go on?



 
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#3 ·
yeah that's what i'm using it for now, i'd just like to know what it actually goes on, and possibly trade it to someone with what it actually fits for a hydraulic pump that actually fits my 81 cj7
 
#4 ·
With the pulley on it I assume it's the hydraulic pump/ oil reservoir for the plow(?).

That sucker must turn pretty fast for such a small pulley. Lots of flow but low pressure.
The mount is kinda small also. I wonder if it's designed to be hooked up to a gas or electric motor to use on a log splitter or something like that.

yeah that's what i'm using it for now, i'd just like to know what it actually goes on, and possibly trade it to someone with what it actually fits for a hydraulic pump that actually fits my 81 cj7
You say you are using it now to lift your plow? Got a picture of your plow?
 
#5 ·
John i'll grab a picture of it here tomorrow, it's a truck plow or something that's been cut down for a smaller vehicle i'll get some pictures of it tomorrow.
 
#6 · (Edited)
A little late, but better now than never so here it is:











as you can see from the pictures, i need some sort of kick backs so it's not actually pushing on the springs and shackles, what do other plows do for "kick backs"?

edit: a quick search turned up this plow with the hy-lo is probably from a late 40's early 50's cj3a, as picture on here the red and yellow one: 1949 CJ3A Owners Photos
 
#7 ·
Holy antiquated batman!

Most HD plowing setups build a small triangle down from the frame to hold the rear pivot point. This would also hold a set of snubbers that stop excess free movement of the blade.

Judging from the looks of your setup I would just weld the blue A-frame right to the frame, taking the place of the tube bumper. Your square tube assembly is not enough to support the forces involved. For not the complete A-frame assembly should be mounted such that it allows the blade to rest at ground level with the cylinder compressed. Any lower and it's wasted space. The blade floats up and down on the chain slack but doesn't need to extend any lower that rest at ground level. The blade also doesn't need to rise very high at all, idealy no higher than the top of the blade just approaching the lower limit of the low beam lamp. Another way to look at it is to figure out what your steepest approach angle with a mounted plow will be and clear that. Too much free motion will lead to snapping the lower mounting points or seriously damaging the pivot pins. I spent a whole winter battling someone else's very poor construction.

I've tacked on a simple diagram where the red triangle represents the locating of the pivot point of the blade, the purple is the blade and the green is the arc created by the lift cylinder. The further forward you mount the pivot the freer your range of motion but the more limited you are in terms of approach angle, should you have a steep driveway or some such. The purple blades show us that a small amount of lift at the cylinder can translate into fairly high blade lift.
 

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#9 · (Edited)
yeah those top mounts are going to get a second bar welded in towards the back to make a sort of box shape (light green, undecided on the style yet), the question i have is what do the lower brackets look like ? i was thinking an "h" pattern (red and blue) where the frame would go between the sides of the h and be bolted to the frame by 5 bolts (dark green) and the long side (blue) of the h would drop down and bolt something from there to the bottom of the plow frame.

 
#13 · (Edited)
yeah those top mounts are going to get a second bar welded in towards the back to make a sort of box shape (light green, undecided on the style yet), the question i have is what do the lower brackets look like ? i was thinking an "h" pattern (red and blue) where the frame would go between the sides of the h and be bolted to the frame by 5 bolts (dark green) and the long side (blue) of the h would drop down and bolt something from there to the bottom of the plow frame.

When Bolting through the frame Make sure you use a pipe run through the frame so you don't squeeze your frame.
I don't think you'll need 5 bolts. That just weakens the frame. Just use one or 2ea 3/4" bolts on each side. My original undercarriage frame just uses 1ea 3/4" bolt on the rear were it bolted into the frame.



You can weld this pipe in or just push it in. It's length has to be just a touch shorter than the width of the frame. The hole diameters are different on each side. This only shows one side attachments

Do you have lower brackets? If the mount is wide enough you can just do this:


This means you would not have to go under or over your axles.
I might be inclined to the vertical piece out a little further for a little more strength.

Your drawing shows the mount on the inside of the frame which is also a pain to clear your steering unless you go under your axle which cuts your ground clearance.

This photo looks like the frame is just as wide as the outside of your frame:


If it needs to be a little wider I would add a 2X2 behind the lift part ("K" section?) and attach the braces to this additional bar instead of the plow frame.
 
#10 ·
Wow, that am interesting design.
I would add a brace from the bottom of the lift to the frame someplace.

Allow room for your axle to move.

I think the round thingie in the middle of the blade is a snubber allowing the blade to flip to jump over hard obstructions.

Thats a very thin design, don't hit anything hard.
 

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#11 ·
Yeah that does look like some kind of captive spring trip system.

As for mounting, those K-shaped triangular plates are where you should be tying the unit to the jeep frame. The forces involved here while relatively small compared to say my plow truck at work, C55 & 10' Western, are still far higher than that simple mount will stand. The A-frame will most likely just detach from the that small hoop.

I'll take some pictures of the setup I have on the truck at work, very simple and sturdy design that has suffered a large amount of abuse with little failure other than poor welds by a welder who either didn't care or know.
 
#12 ·
i appreciate the help guys, do you think the upside down "h" pattern hold up?

ACAD- Thanks for getting me some pictures, i'm kinda stuck until i get a design thought up here.
 
#14 ·
As promised, some shots of a seriously home made mounting setup. Everything is made from .25" wall material. Make note of the lower section tie backs. This is THE important area because you only need the plow mounted so high and lifting only so high to clear obstructions.

The failure of this system as you can tell from the munged up eyes on the plow frame is is who ever built it never triangulated the stress points nor included any form of blade stop. Naughty naughty as it cost me many a night till wee'o'clock fixing it. This fall I plan on striping the eyes off and making new ones from square tube stock and cross through tubes.














 
#15 ·
Much appreciated, I see what you mean about the plow eyes. I've got a decent idea now on what I'm going to do for tie backs. Thanks again, when I get them done I'll post up some pictures.
 
#17 ·
With the 10 foot blade, it doesn't snap in any dirction but down. As you may have guesed, with nothing to control upward arc of the plow it would kick all the way vertical and sometimes past vertical. Given that I have imited room to plow snow too at work, I have to try to get it as high as possible. Kick back eventualy caused the piss poor welds on the eyes to let go in a real bad way. The previous welder had some beautiful looking beads except there was no penetration into the 3/4 plate of the eye, none. It was like weelding wire caulking. I solved that by degreasing everything, grinding everything to clean metal and then v-grooving all my interface areas. It may look a bit scabby in the pics but it was also 3am. Haven't had a problem since. This fall the plan is to cut the eyes off, heat and hammer the eyes back straight then weld back on with some triangulation.
 
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