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To anyone who has replaced a fuel pump.

4K views 31 replies 10 participants last post by  heep1991 
#1 ·
So I checked the realy and fuses. Checked all connections that are possible to get to with out dropping the tank. And have come to the conclusion that my fuel pump has **** the bed. No warning at all. The heep drove fine to work, then when I was going to lunch it started but quickly started to gurgle and proceeded to die. I tried a few more times but gurgle, gurgle, gurgle...die. I replaced the fuel filter in the parking lot and no go.

My question for you guys is this. Since there are quite a few brands to choose from, which is the best and most complete brand of fuel pump. By complete I mean hoses, gaskets, screens everything I need to get the job done and not have to run to the parts store 3 times. Or if anyone has a list of required parts for the install that would be great.:wave:

Thanks
 
#2 ·
fuel pump

I replaced mine about a year ago. I just went to NAPA and got the Bosch fuel pump kit (NAPA P/N "BSH
N69302 " Bosch fuel pump kit, it comes with the inlet screen, the pump, the rubber hose that connects the pump to the metal line,two clamps, new wires and some orings. Get a new rubber gasket for the top mounting area(I don't have the part number for the gasket.) I do remember that I had to reorder the gasket because the wrong one came in. Mine is from a 93' 4.0l and it is rectangular but the one that came in the first time was round. Not sure if it was my fault or NAPA's.
 
#4 ·
Have you gone thru the full trouble shooting of this???

I hesitate to fire right at changing the fuel pump. Do you hear it prime when you turn the key to on(not starting it)?????

Did you check the shrader valve on the fuel rail to see if you are getting fuel????
 
#6 ·
Have you gone thru the full trouble shooting of this???

I hesitate to fire right at changing the fuel pump. Do you hear it prime when you turn the key to on(not starting it)?????

Did you check the shrader valve on the fuel rail to see if you are getting fuel????
Before I went to swap the filter I released the pressure at the rail and it wasnt much at all. Pump does not prime with key turned. I even left the filter off and turned engine over and nothing, not even a drop came out the hose going back to the tank.

I haven't gone through the complete troubleshooting I guess. Am I missing something?:wave:
 
#5 ·
Just replaced my fuel pump on my '93 4.0. Died the same way yours did...one minute it was fine, then it would not restart.

There are 2 fuel pumps listed in the parts books for this engine. I needed to take the broken pump to my local NAPA to match it. it turned out to be the NAPA brand pump not the bosch one, which was too physically small. It comes with all the stuff needed to install it(new nuts/bolts, hoses, hose clamps, filter etc) in the box with the filter.
Cost was about $125.
Took a few hours, mostly dropping and reinstalling the tank, it is in there fairly tight.
 
#9 ·
I clamped the hose going into the filter before removing. To test the pump after filter removal I released the clamp and turned engine over. Nothing came out. I put in three gallons just to be sure I didn't run it dry.

Is this normal????
 
#12 ·
I clamped the hose going into the filter before removing. To test the pump after filter removal I released the clamp and turned engine over. Nothing came out. I put in three gallons just to be sure I didn't run it dry.

Is this normal????
If the pump is not priming or does not have power to it, you will not have fuel come out.
 
#15 ·
Well then I guess the pump or connections at the pump are the next step. Sorry, was just trying to troubleshoot abit for ya.
 
#17 ·
When you say your fuel guage does not work do you mean it stays at empty or full? If it stays pegged out on full then you have a bad ground to the fuel pump and guage. They both use the same ground connected at the parking brake pedal mount bolt.
 
#19 ·
The sending unit uses a serious of strips of metal to ground the tank at different spots which put out different resistances, and something technical like that, blah blah blah, but what he was saying was that it still could have been a wiring issue but judging by your post it doesn't seem like it.

Just so you guys know, I don't really know how a sending unit works but that makes sense^^.
 
#20 ·
Just a thought before dropping witch I have delt with and continue to deal with. I have 91 jeep and the fuel pump had a bad ground. I found this by using multimeter on the fuel pump plug witch you can access without dropping. Test both sides of the plug, I have to attach wire from plug that comes from fuel pump and ground it to my bumper. I will post pictures today of setup. Standby
 
#21 ·
I got the NAPA pump. It was about twice the size of the Bosch one.
When you have the tank dropped, get the sender working then.

Do you have a dent in the skid plate cover over the gas tank? That could cause the sender to get stuck on that baffle that is in the tank.

Here is a pic of my fuel pump/sender unit...
The actual "pump" is that aluminum looking cylinder. But what I got included in the box was all the parts it takes to remount the new pump into that harness it is in.



Here you can see the bulge in the baffle that is down inside the gas tank. Caused by a dent in the skid plate. It caused my sender to not work.

 
#22 ·
the above is a fairly common problem. this happened to me and over time messed everything up. ive done 2 pump replacements and never had a pump that was an identical match to the factory. always a bit of finagling to make it work. these were the ones napa had for my application a 91.
 
#27 ·
Below is great way to test fuel pump and also get fuel to engine quick if you run outa gas or just need to fill lines. Remove cap from fuse and press the fuse together. Fuse is always power and you dont need key in or anything. FYI you can do this with all fuses.. to think about it probley do starter and fuel pump at same time and maybe start Jeep lol.





 
#32 ·
Yea sorry its called a relay. Take cover off relay for fuel pump and you will see a metal tab that is not quite touching the unit and all you do is squeeze the relay together allowing that piece of metal to touch unit. This will turn on the fuel pump. It will allow you to run fuel pump manually.
 
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