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5.0 engine swap pictures

320K views 1K replies 123 participants last post by  BDC1 
#1 ·
5.0 engine swap pictures with full functioning gauges including tach!!




:cheers2:
 
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#126 ·
Those motor mounts are major beef, looks great! What are the odds you could get your friend to make an extra set? I would be happy to pay a reasonable price, just let me know. BTW, I found a free 302 so my 5.0L swap may be coming sooner than I thought...
 
#127 ·
Looks like we are starting something here brian. May have the next cheap motor swap option. too bad your werent closer we could start selling 5.0 swap kits. I could do the wiring and we could both make mounts. be easy money.
 
#129 ·
Sorry, I don't seem to have any good pictures of the motor swap any more. (ugh). I did find this one pic that shows how much room I have between the motor and the front of the jeep. My 5.0 is set back 10" and down 2" to get a better center of gravity.



I can say if you don't clean up the wiring to start with, you never will (Well, I'm still hoping to some day)..
 
#130 ·
I welded the mounts in and got everything painted. Had to remove the bell and adaptor due to failure to follow instrustions on the part about "clearencing the tranny" so the bolts can go in. I mocked everything up with the top two bolts "catty-wompiss", and then clearenced the tranny my self after removing the motor again ( which need to be done anyway ). Then I was reading about the TOB and stuff, which I have to go buy ( and alinment tool ), and I saw it says it right in the instructions ( which I just found, haha ).

I'll post some pics in a bit, I've gotta pick up the kids from school.

My friend is interested it making mounts if people want them, but... He's not real cheap, haha. I'm sure he could beat "comparable" prices, but he's not going to sell them for $75 or anything. They are very solid in there now. My ole $200 harbor freight welder was "hit and miss", but it didn't end up looks too bad, just not a clean as the normal miller-matic welds.

I bolted the flywheel on, and I know its only supposed to go on one way, and it went right now and the bolts threaded in nice and freely, so I guess I got luck and lined the flywheel to the right pattern first shot.

I'll post pics in a few minutes, then I gotta get some food and a nap. I only ate once yesturday ( POS mc-D chicken sandwich and large fry ), and I only slept 6 hours due to working over time and my buddy waking me up ( which is good in this case ).

Rock Dawg 97124: what's the rest of your set-up ? stock axles and stuff ?
Thanx for the video, no less !! Have you had any break downs or anything with it ?

I don't know how much further back and stuff it is, but mine is deffinately WAY WAY back there. Its everything the firewall and strut towers can fit. I'd imagine that's why the tree-fidy needs an entire new bell since it prob. needs to sit somewhere completely different than the 5.0L
 
#134 ·
Rock Dawg 97124: what's the rest of your set-up ? stock axles and stuff ?
Thanx for the video, no less !! Have you had any break downs or anything with it ?

I don't know how much further back and stuff it is, but mine is deffinately WAY WAY back there. Its everything the firewall and strut towers can fit. I'd imagine that's why the tree-fidy needs an entire new bell since it prob. needs to sit somewhere completely different than the 5.0L
I have a 98 exploder 8.8 (31 spline and disk brakes) in the rear with 4.88 and an ARB.

The front is still a dana 30. Maybe a super 30 as I have never broke it yet. (knock on wood). It is also 4.88's and arb'd.

Since the install.... I have broken:

  1. The rear axle (twice). One dana 35 and one 8.8 (spiders both times)
  2. AX15 trans.
  3. Center shaft out of the T-case.. (see below)
  4. Just about all the factory 4 link brackets holding the front and rear end on..
  5. The front and rear drivelines I replaced. Watch the front. Mine was touching the oil pan at full flex!!

I have to be easier on the skinny pedal :doh:
 
#131 ·
Add $20 to the budget. Ford truck "release bearing" and 1982 chevy camaro 5.7L clutch alinment tool. I thought the alinment tool came with it, but I guess not.

Amos, you might want to put "not 56K friendly" in the title. Haha.

Right before welding


Blurry pic of Bumpus ( not me )


Pass. burn'd in


Driver burn'D in


Both mounts welded


Driver side before paint


Pass. before paint


After paint with 79' Bronco engine mounts sitting in


Same as above, only all the floresent lights are turned off in the shop.


New flywheel, old presure plate waiting on alinment tool and lock-tight.
 
#308 ·
Add $20 to the budget. Ford truck "release bearing" and 1982 chevy camaro 5.7L clutch alinment tool. I thought the alinment tool came with it, but I guess not.
According to your post ,you bought one or meant too and never got it
 
#132 ·
Pass. side painted.


Pass. again


Driver after paint


Showing off the NV3550 to 302 adaptor, ford truck bell/fork/slave, trimmed tranny snout (1/4''), and new Ford truck (92') Throw out bearing.
 
#309 ·
Showing off the NV3550 to 302 adaptor, ford truck bell/fork/slave, trimmed tranny snout (1/4''), and new Ford truck (92') Throw out bearing.
that is the right bearing a 92 lists the same as 87 that i used. PArt number s614014 $16.99 at advance and in stock
 
#133 ·
And... I'm almost talked into 100% hydraulic steering to get rid of all the bars and stuff on the front end. Its not an issue in my jeep, but... Well, I can do it for free ( I'm a forklift tech remember ).

Prob. won't do it, but its hard not to do when its cool, free, and prob. better than stock.
 
#135 ·
I sure hope its got more to do with "39.5' SS" than "5.0L H.O.".

I'm just looking at a max of 4:10 gears and 35'' M/Ts. It will be on the D35 and 3:07s for a few months though.

Spiderman: I can't get a price out of my buddy. Find some mounts somewhere and let me know how much they cost, and he'll beat it, is about all I can say. I can't say a price for him... They will be strictly weld in mounts though.

-Bryan
 
#136 · (Edited)
#137 ·
BTW, what's up with the 13 people saying they'd rather have a 2.5L 4 banger :laugh: Same people would prob. rather have my blown up 4.0L :laugh:

You've busted some good parts, hope I can make it more than 3-4weeks this time.
 
#138 ·
Yes the parts I have broken have been over 4-5 years of wheeling at least two day's a month.

Most of the time I know I am getting ready to brake before it brakes.:rofl:

I have never broke it driving down the road or taking it easy....
 
#139 ·
Thanks for checking Bryan, I'll have to do some checking myself before I can get you a price. I may just have a friend fab some up for me but Amos is right, if you guys were to sell those mounts on Ebay or something, you could make a few bucks AND help guys like us make a TJ what it should be ;) I know there was a company out there selling a 5.0L bracket for YJ's that was going for about $150. Of course not everyone wants to pay that, but at the same time not everyone can make their own.
 
#140 ·
Hey amos, you know which alinment tool to use ? I ordered the chevy, but my buddy said it might need a jeep one, and the parts store told me they don't sell just the alinment tool for TJs.
 
#141 ·
I just used a chevy truck one and wrapped the end in electriacal tape until the tip was the right size for the pilot bushing. otherwise check another store and get one for a jeep but i just used the chevy truck one.
 
#142 ·
#143 ·
i didnt see those or i would have used them. would have been nice because when i do my tummy tuck i may need to raise the motor. not bad at all for the price. spiderman637 may want to check those out. any news on the jeep? Any more parts on. the headers you used are different than mine. yours have the 02 in them and i welded mine in the y pipe
 
#144 ·
Those are pretty interesting...Advance adapters has something similar but it's about $150. Maybe I can get a package deal if I order it all at once ;) Probably not, but that does look like a good option. BTW, seeing all these pictures you guys are posting is extremely helpful for someone in the planning stage. Thanks a lot!
 
#145 ·
i would defiantly order from advance adapters but check into www.tellico4x4.com they sell a.a stuff and it is cheaper. advance adapters will go above and beyond when it comes to helping you with your swap. Also seem to have more included for the price than novak. Use what you want but i am sharing my experience with advance adapters as a great one.
 
#146 ·
I humped it by myself today, and didn't get very far. My buddy will be over tomorrow, and hopefully, we can get the thing in and bolted down ready to run. I had to take an hour nap today at work :shhh: I'm go'n to bed.

38degrees tonight Amos...
 
#147 ·
:mad:that was higher than our high today:thumbdown:
 
#148 ·
I was reading on another forum that the computer you want for a 5.0L swap is the auto computer, regardless of whether you are using a stick or auto. Supposedly this is because the auto computer's tune is more agressive to help overcome the torque converter aka slushbox. Any thoughts on this? I think the A9L is the computer I'm seeing the most out there.
 
#155 ·
ecm



I had to have my computer reprogramed to work properly in my jeep..... But I did several mods to the motor so that was my plan all along.

I would recommend tuning what ever computer you put in.. My Jeep ran so much better after the reprogram and tuning.
I'm running the A9L, but the auto version. Supposed to be the same, just for automatics.

Rock Dawg 97124 when you say "tuned" did you use a Eprom style chip or something ?

I had 6 hands on the 302 today. I had to removed the motor again so we could shorten the shaft a bit more ( advanced A tells you to take off 1/4'' ). With 3 of us, it was about 9000% less stressful. I was telling the guys that its a shame I changed the motor/tranny two different times in my SRT4 100% alone in the garage, but my V8 jeep takes three of us :laugh:

Anyway, get ready for a shot storm of pictures.
Any of the A9 series computers are fine and in our cases no programming required right now because all stock but if you are looking into tuning tweecer is the cheapest burner out there and you can turn off all emmisions crap and change idle speed fuel curves timing curves pulse width all that fun stuff. also can change injector size instead of using different mass air meters
 
#149 ·
I had to have my computer reprogramed to work properly in my jeep..... But I did several mods to the motor so that was my plan all along.

I would recommend tuning what ever computer you put in.. My Jeep ran so much better after the reprogram and tuning.
 
#150 ·
I'm running the A9L, but the auto version. Supposed to be the same, just for automatics.

Rock Dawg 97124 when you say "tuned" did you use a Eprom style chip or something ?

I had 6 hands on the 302 today. I had to removed the motor again so we could shorten the shaft a bit more ( advanced A tells you to take off 1/4'' ). With 3 of us, it was about 9000% less stressful. I was telling the guys that its a shame I changed the motor/tranny two different times in my SRT4 100% alone in the garage, but my V8 jeep takes three of us :laugh:

Anyway, get ready for a shot storm of pictures.
 
#151 ·
First off, this is the shoe I wear while working on the jeep. Bought this set of shoes right after I blew up the 4.0L. I think its a sign that I was supposed to have a 5.0L jeep like 472cid/Amos. This was way before I even knew Amos.



This pic was taken to show the close-ness of the header to the motor mount, and the excess of room for the O2 sensor and clutch slave cylinder, but the camera chose to focus on the brake lines..



This was meant to show the close-ness of the strut tower on the pass to the alternator bracket, and the A/C comp. to the steering shaft.


Meant to show the mounting of the engine related to the strut towers ( how far back it sits ).


This was meant to show the drive accy's are even with the front axle. You can see the pumpkin if you look in front of the power steering.


Meant to show there is plenty of room for the alternator, although, it is a "snug" fit.
 
#152 ·
This was meant to show the clearence to the firewall. Its tight, but the way the motor sits now, it clears by abour 3/4'' of an inch ( plenty ).


This is meant to show where I beat the firewall in to make room for the intake manifold. It actully only rubbed here while trying to install the motor at an odd angle ( to clear the driver side engine mount and header ).


This was taken to show that my pass. side O2 sensor does not have room. I'm going to have to plug it and install another bung in the Y-pipe when I build it. You have to look close at this pic to see the bung at 12:00 O'clock.


Passenger side mount, free and clear.


Front veiw of the pass. mount. You can see we built room into the mount to let the upper control arm do what ever it wants. Although, it would prob have to bent/break to reach the mount...


THis is actully the underside of the driver mount. We needed to bend in the mount by about 9/16'', but the mount was too close to get a good swing on the hammer, and the mount was laughing at me... So. The solution was to weld a bolt in from the backside, to gain extra strength by welding the upper control arm bracket to the motor mount ( yea, the one I couldn't bend with a mini-sledge, haha ).


Underside of the passenger side mount.


Meant to show how close the steering shaft and A/C comp. are from the side. Its close, but now an issue.


Unless you've gotten this deep in a jeep, you might not reallize what this is. Its the steering joint on the frame. We spaced the steering out with a bolt and spot welded the top, to get just a hair more clearence of the A/C comp.
 
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