This has been a few years in the making.
axles
HP30
8.8 centered pinion (very easy) Just measure the two axle shaft's length. Cut the axle and sleeve it. Use two long shafts.
4.88 gears
Some of the air intake its a ford mini van filter assy from the 90's explorers also used the same set up.
The filter assy all snaps together. I just cut it down and slid the short end over the other longer one, snaped the inner piece in and siliconed it all up.
Its has been on my jeep for around two year no problems yet.
The filter assy all snaps together. I just cut it down and slid the short end over the other longer one, snaped the inner piece in and siliconed it all up.
Its has been on my jeep for around two year no problems yet.
A few pics of the mid arms
Lowers 27"
Upper rear 25"
Rear trackbar 35"
Front upper ?
Poly performance frame brackets. The 10deg ones work best less trimming.
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
The area to cut out is diff with every type of suspension set up IMO.
Short arms ,mid arms and long arms all have diff amounts of rear steer when fully flexed.
Not to mention shock length added to the mix.
I pulled the coils, unhooked the rear sway bar and shocks. Then put the tire on on the side I wanted to check and flexed it fully and compressed it fully.
Marked 1" above the tire and cut.
I could not count the # of times that I have pulled the front and rear coils to do all the mod that I have done.
Crawled, and subscribed. I like how you did the shock mounts a lot. That makes a lot of sense to me. With all of that downtravel, how much of that flex is useless? Do you still get decent traction even with that much droop? Were you still able to use those shock mounts without screwing with the fenders? I'm planning on doing a highline for my build, and I'm looking at the clayton LA lift. By the time it's said and done, I might just do the same with my shocks. Nice build.
With the 33"tires I only rubed on the front factory fenders.
I have 5" of up 8" down travel in the front and 4" up 9" down in the rear.
The rear coils are still tight at full flex, front are loose.
Now with 35" tires highline hood I have 5/8" clearance on the front. The rear I trimmed and have about 3/4". Still have another 1/2 to 3/4 I could trim on the rear.
You can see where I moved the track bar up and out. This rid the rear from binding at full flex. Track bar is 35" long. Coils dont hit the brackets or track bar.
Man after all the work to make the track bar work I would have been time and materials ahead to four link it.:brickwall
The other side track bar mount down and out . Bracket is clear of coils and shock.
how much better does it handle on the hwy with the trac bar level? I figure it must be close to level anyhow from loweing one side and raising the axle end.....
The reason I did this was to prevent the suspension from binding at full flex.
As the track bar drops down (creating an arc) it's pulling the axle over to the pass side on the rear. As far as handling on highway not sure it made any diff
The mid arms are so much smoother ride than short arms, oh the adj shocks are a plus turn them down on the street and max them out on the trail.
I am seriously thinking about going back to 33" tires to get the crawl ratio back with my 4.88 gears. 35" tires and 5.13 would be nice.
Not sure what back spacing I have. The wheels were on the jeep when I purchased it.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Jeep Enthusiast Forums
18.5M posts
726.8K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to all jeep owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, engine swaps, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!