Does a tummy tuck lift of the tcase so it doesnt hang below the chassis? How much is one? and can I install it with my basic tools?
I have a Rubicon Express 3.5" Super Flex Lift. How will I know if I need to replace the SYE and CV shaftMaverick906 said:Ok, I have a Teraflex belly-up skid plate on my Jeep. I like it, there are others but most are more expensive. Plus it is one of the "skinniest" skid plates on the market. There are skinnier ones but they don't have the strength that Teraflex has.
Most people don't do this mod until they have to when they lift their jeep 3.5'' or more. If yours is stock you may not need to buy a SYE and CV driveshaft.
You might not have to buy anything for the skid plate to work or you may get by with rear upper and lower control arms in order to dial out the increased angle in your driveline.
Yes this is an excellent right up. My "total" skid plate costs weren't quite as high since I already had a 2'' body lift which came with a t-case shift linkage relocation bracket.lupinsea said:.
Check out the thread above. It's a fairly complete write-up on all the things that you'll need to address for a low-profile skid plate install. The skid plate itself is only about 25% of the total cost. Figure that (starting from scratch) it'll cost about $1100-1200 for a complete install. The reason being is that if you have ANY suspension lift at all you'll need:
$250+ - Skid plate
$550 - SYE + CV driveshaft
$160 - Adj. Upper Rear Control Arms
$150 - 1" BL / MML
$60 - T-case shift linkage relocation bracket
$120 - exhaust tweaks from a mufflershop
Because the low-profile skid plates jack up the t-case so much on a lifted Jeep you then need a SYE / CV driveshaft because the u-joint working angles are too severe on the stock driveshaft. And then, because you have a CV driveshaft you'll need to re-set your pinion angle (via the adj. upper control arms). Most belly-up skids also require a 1" BL. And then because of all this shifting around your transfercase linkages will probably be messed up . . so you need to address this. Finally, because you have an exhaust hanger on your t-case mounting bracket the exhaust is now shoved up against the body tub. So that needs to get tweaked.
Don't be scared off the mod. It's very nice having the break-over clearance. Just be aware of all that is involved. It's a lot more than just the skid plate itself.
If goferit made a skid for my auto rubi I would have bought one long ago but they don't have anything that will fit my Jeep. Im waiting to see what Rokmen releases and go from there.Skyjacker also has a reasonably economical skid.
Having upturned flanges on the leading and trailing edges will certainly help.
Difranco, for NW trails I've found that my 3/16" skid is fine. Maybe I don't wheel hard enough but I've not really landed on it hard. It mostly just is there to protect the t-case as I don't slide across it much as we don't have the insane rock crawling obstacles up here. Could also be that it tucks things up high enough that I don't scrape it much anymore either.
So, sure, the 1/4" skid is certainly stronger but I'm not sure I'd want the extra weight.
Just wondering what it would take to make it 97-02 compatible?specs:
1/4" Steel Plate
Just over 2 1/4" clearance versus stock
Uses stock transmission mount
03'-06' TJ and LJ vehicles
:shhh:
A Rubicon has the NP241 Tcase which is different and larger than the NP231 Tcase, it is not compatible with all skids. Also the Rubicon has the locker pumps mounted on the Tcase skid, if the skid is not designed for the pumps they will need to be relocated into the engine bay.Every skid I've seen is for all model wranglers what keeps a rubicon owner from putting one on?