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How to replace an axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly w/PICS!

226K views 340 replies 153 participants last post by  jetnjeff29r 
#1 ·
This post has been rewritten and the images have been recovered. Here is the new link:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/archive-arloguthrojeep-s-axle-shaft-wheel-bearing-assembly-write-up-3684209/

After a day of fun you Jeep may look like this:


On my Jeep I have aftermarket wheels so I am able to access the main hub nut with the wheel still on.

Start by removing the cotter pin:
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Then the cap:
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And behind the cap is a spring (shown on left):
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Next, use your trusty 36mm socket to break that nut before you take off the wheel:


With the nut torqued to 175ft/lbs and rust/dirt seizing up the nut, it isn't a surprise that a cheater bar helps:D In this case it is my old tie rod.


Now jack up your axle:


And remove the wheel, place it under your sliders if you have them or under your hub in the event your Jeep falls off the jack, it won't crash onto the ground:


Next, remove the caliper bracket (2 x 18mm bolts) and hang it from the spring via wire or zip ties:
 
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#27 ·
when i pulled mine apart the first time I put no seize on everything. You don't have to bang or clank or fight with any of the bolts. even with my wheel spacers I can have this done in 12 minutes.....we timed it.
 
#28 ·
looks like what i did, only i actually seperated the hub from the bearing..

i could have used this faq before i did it :) hah, ah well thanks for taking the time to take pictures.
 
#38 ·
I crawled under my 96ZJ and noticed I have the U-joint axles, and they are BAD!!! I did not get a very close look at it yet, but I can just replace the u-joints right? Should be the same as changing the front u-joint on a rear drive shaft? Or do you replace the whole works axles and all??? I've changed them on the front of a 89 f-150 many of times... (I have 38s in the front welded spyders..) This procedure does not look bad, if it is the same for my 96... I can turn my front drive shaft about a quarter turn before the tires move... Lots of slop!!!! Thanks for any info!!!
 
#41 ·
I could have sworn I already asked this in this thread.. Are the holes that the splined shafts go into open to the differential? How do you avoid getting that sludgy grease in the axle tubes in there? Can you clean out that grease?
 
#42 ·
I have a '94 Jeep GC (ZJ) that has U-joint axles. Can u-joint axles be replaced with CV axles? If that's even possible would it be a good choice or is it better to stick with the u-joints? I'm pretty sure it's my u-joints that are bad. It makes a squeak/thumping noise when I turn SLOWLY. Should I just replace the u-joints, or the whole assembly? Thanks for the great insight.
 
#45 ·
Should I replace the wheel bearings when I replace the axle shafts? What other parts should I plan on. I haven't done the axle shafts before and want to be sure I have all the parts before I begin. I can't afford to have a shop do it, but with the money I save doing it on my own I'm willing to put some extra parts in while I have it taken apart (I'm planning on doing both left and right sides).
 
#47 ·
That's good news. I think my wheel bearings are fine because the truck sounds fine when it's rolling straight. I just have noise & clunking when turning slowly. How soon should I fix this (the u-joints or CV axles)? I drive about 100 miles a week (mostly city, some highway), and was thinking of doing the repairs in a few weeks. Will I get stranded if they break? (they've been getting noiser each day, it seems).
 
#52 ·
The 51.52 price is for a reman axle. Just as good as a new one, and local. My store always has my shafts in stock. You wouldn't have any problems with that.
 
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