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need some help with gear grinding

2K views 27 replies 6 participants last post by  jeepchic95 
#1 ·
I have a 95 yj, 4 banger, with 5speed. has 3in body lift and 32x10.50. i have a couple issues i need advice with. When i shift gears it grinds a little, still goes into gear but has a little grind to it. clutch pedal had pressure to it. could it be the slave, throw out bearing, or the syncros? also when I go into 5th gear i lose power, motor doesnt bog down any but i lose speed. any ideas? and last issue....my speedometer and odometer dont work. thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
Hmmm... well... I have a similar JY, sort of. 95 4cyl 5spd. I run 31's on mine. 5th gear is still usable, but just barely. Any incline results in downshifting. I'm guessing the 32's are just too much for the 4. Mine also grinds a little when shifting. Not every gear, but, often enough to get noticed. Probably wear on the sycros from 184k. At some point I am going to change fluid and see if that helps. Perhaps there is a slightly heavier viscosity of the recommended fluid? Speedometer and odo don't work... Have you checked to see if they are even connected?
 
#3 ·
The 32" tires are causing the loss of speed in 5th gear. I have 33" tires on mine and it had the same problem until I swapped out axles to ones with 4.10 gears. Now I can run interstate speeds no problem even pulling a trailer. As far as the grinding in the transmission, your synchros are more than likely worn. Not uncommon in older jeeps with high miles. You may want to look into getting it rebuilt or a different transmission.
 
#4 ·
You should try changing your transmission and transfer case fluid. Sometimes this can help significantly, especially if it has never been changed before.

When you drain it out, look for gold colored bits of metal in the transmission oil and on the plug. This will be a sign that your synchros are going. If they are not too damaged, just getting the worn metal bits out with the oil will help your shifting and help prevent further damage.

If it still grinds, then you can rebuild your transmission with new synchros now for a $1-2k at the shop. 500-1000 if you take the transmission out and drop it off yourself with a truck, or about $100-300 if you do the entire job yourself.

If you are going to run your transmission into the ground and not rebuild (you still should change the fluids), then I would recommend rev matching and double clutching like you would do with an unsynchronized transmission to reduce future damage. You can find videos of how to do this on youtube if you don't already know, it will take practice. This will prevent more metal from the synchros grinding up and breaking free. You don't actually need synchronizers to drive, but you do need to avoid the metal chunks from damaged synchros interfering with the actual transmission gears.

Loss of power is likely because of your tire size and 4 cylinder as stated above.

Speedometer sensor was probably pulled out by a previous owner after they changed the tire size since it would have been very inaccurate anyway (It would have read too slow). You can purchase the correct speedometer gear for tire size and install it, or continue to go without since the wrangler isn't a speed demon anyway. This should fix the odometer as well.

Best of luck!
 
#5 ·
I have a 95 yj, 4 banger, with 5speed. has 3in body lift and 32x10.50. i have a couple issues i need advice with. When i shift gears it grinds a little, still goes into gear but has a little grind to it. clutch pedal had pressure to it. could it be the slave, throw out bearing, or the syncros?
Most likely, your trans is overdue for a gear oil change.
also when I go into 5th gear i lose power, motor doesnt bog down any but i lose speed. any ideas?
Your tires are too tall for stock gearing. Either drive at higher rpm, drive slower, or regear the front and rear to 4.88
and last issue....my speedometer and odometer dont work. thanks in advance.
Check the speed sensor and the speedo gear on the transfer case
 
#11 ·
Did you pull the whole gear out of the transfer case to make sure it is actually there or just check that the wiring was connected?

The gear should be removable:


also check the writeup of speedo gear changing:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/speedo.html

But since you suspect an electrical problem rather than mechanical, unplug the speed sensor at both ends, clean the metal contacts with alcohol and then put some electric contact grease on there (the little 30 cent packets from autozone). This can fix a lot of electrical problems in old cars.

Next, you should suspect that a mouse ate through the wiring. Use a multi-meter to check the following:

(Someone else correct me if I'm wrong!)

From the speedometer wire connector on the transfer case:
Wht/Org should have continuity from the transfer case to the Wht/Org on the speedometer wire under the dash
Org should show a voltage when measured to ground when they key is in the on position
Blk should have continuity to ground

Under the dashboard on the speedometer sensor:
Wht/Org should have continuity with Wht/Org on the transfer case connector (as described above)
Dark Blu/Wht should show a voltage when the key is in the on position
Blk should have continuity with ground
 
#15 ·
did the speedometer gear separate from its axle? or is the axle and speedometer gear pulling out of the speedometer gear housing?

The speedometer gear and axle should easily pull out of its housing. bolting the housing back to the transfer case should hold it in place. Make sure you line up the number properly with the dot on the transfer case as described on the website instructions.

If your speedometer gear is turning freely on its metal axle or if the teeth look warn flat, you will need to replace it. Since it is plastic, they sometimes get worn down or broken after a couple hundred thousand miles.
 
#19 ·
OK, as long as you had the correct installed position (rotated so the proper number stamped on the sender unit is aligned with the dot) then we now know it is an electrical problem.

Check the voltage on the wires at the speedometer wires on the transfer case. Make sure the ORG wire is hot when the key is on, and the BLK wire is grounded. Those are the easiest two to check.
 
#22 ·
Been awhile..got busy with work and had to take a break. Anyway i checked the electrical system.

White and orange under dash and on tcase have continuity with each other.

Black under dash has continuity to ground.

drk blue/white has voltage with key on.

Black on tcase has continuity to ground.

Orange on tcase does not show voltage to ground with key on when using test light but when i used multi meter set to DCMA it shiws 4.46.
 
#23 ·
At the transfer case:
The Wht/Orange at the transfer case should show 4 to 5 volts referenced to ground with the key in the ON position

Orange should show 7 to 8 volts when referenced to ground with the key in the ON position.

Black should show continuity with ground (looks like you have that one correct)


Next, pull the wiring harness off the vehicle speed sensor on the transfer case. With the key in the ON position, Get a paper clip or spare wire and jumper the Wt/Or wire with the Blk wire. Connect and disconnect them rapidly, does the speedometer flutter or move while you do this? (You are doing this to the wire side that runs back to the cab)


If those all look correct, then we can check out the under dash wiring.
 
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