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Discussion on Lift Installation Tips

130K views 125 replies 100 participants last post by  Remacal 
#1 · (Edited)
I thought after all of us have installed various brands/types/sizes of lifts, that we should have a discussion regarding tools you wish you had to help you install your lift. Use this thread to list pieces you really wish you had and what vehicle and lift you were trying to install.

When I was installing my BDS 3.5" on my YJ, I really wished that I had tall tall jackstands with a wide platform underneath and a taller floorjack for the axle. Also various deep-socketed large size wrenches would have been nice.

Tips: Don't bother with a pickle fork when trying to remove your pitman-arm, just get one of these:: Pitman arm puller
autozone carries a different version of this that is wide-jawed and can ben used for ball-joints as well. makes it much much easier..

Installing leaf spring axle shims is easier when you have two or more clamps to hold the pack together so you can unbolt the center stud and position the shim underneath it.

You don't *need* two people to install a lift, but it sure is handy to have a 2nd person with his own set of tools, makes certain bolts easier to install and remove, as well as bolting skid plate pans back to the frame.
 
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#82 ·
I am a newbie....but i'll try and help, from the pics i've seen here so far 35's will be a tight fit under just a 4" body lift...might hit the wheel openings in the back of the body. Now with about another 1" of body lift and a little shackle lift on top of that it seems to work out...4" lift and 33's seem to be the most common combo. I am curious about the 6" lift kits I see for sale...why doesn't everyone just run a 6" kit instead of combining a 4" lift with body and shackle lifts? it's it only a cost factor? The 6" lifts look like they're allmost twice as much as the 4...but seems like it would be the best way to do it if you really wanted extra lift. I can't find any info about how high you can go without chaning other expensive parts...so not sure if you can even go with a 6" with stock driveshafts or steering links...so much to learn!
 
#83 ·
ok so i have a 98 xj classic and i want to start offroading with a 3.5 inch lift and still have nice road drivability here are my options, which is best ? and what size tire would you recommend ?

Rubicon Express 3.5" Super-Ride™ Suspension System with Leaf Springs $584.99

Rubicon Express 3.5" Super-Ride™ Suspension System with Add-a-Leaf $403.99

Rubicon Express 3.5" Super-Flex™ Suspension System with Leaf Springs $760.99

Rubicon Express 3.5" Super-Flex™ Suspension System with Add-a-Leafs $577.99
 
#84 ·
I would strongly recommend going with a Super Flex kit if you intend to do any off roading at all. The Super Ride arms are very stiff, stiffer than stock in fact, and I personally wouldn't run them if I was doing any off roading at all.

I would also recommend going with a full rear leaf pack. Most of the XJ leaf packs I see anymore are sagging and should be replaced.

Here's a link to the RE6030 3.5" Super Flex Kit w/ Rear Springs on our website (note the free shipping and discounted shock options):

http://www.redrock4x4.com/shop/products/232.html

I would recommend adding an adjustable front track bar, other than that it's a great kit.

Feel free to contact us if you have any questions.

Jason
 
#85 ·
Hello,
Hope I ain't hijacking here.
I have a question, and this looks like the place to ask it. I bought a 81 CJ5 back in August to do a resto on. It has a rough country spring suspension on it. I can still see the numbers painted on the springs. 8007(front) 8008(rear). I tried to cross reference this at rough countrys site, and could not find it anywhere. Also, the shackles on this jeep are long. They measure 6.5 inches center to center on the main bolt holes. Add approx. another 2 inches for an overall length. So, I need help identifiying the lift of the rough country springs, and the shackle lift. I would like to go to a shorter shackle and still run 33's. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Patter
 
#86 ·
Well for me.

I had to cut into the body TWICE to get the front bolts out on my Leafs.

Thats the only thing that really sucked ***.

5 foot Pipe made the day 10x easier.
 
#87 ·
Just did my 4.5" RE lift

Sawzall
Angle Grinder
Tall Jackstands
Tall jack
1/2" drill for front track bar bracket (5/8 drill bit)
breaker bar
as much PB Blaster or Kroil as you can find
good set of sockets and wrenches
a good friend to help you (preferrably a guy who knows more than you)
a BIG hammer. i mean HUGE!
 
#88 ·
PB PB PB

Sawzall because my bushings were seized up on the bolts. 5 lb sledge didnt work so i cut them off.

Read instructions

Have some good music

Make sure everything is in your kit because i just had to order another part that was missing and i will have to bum even more rides from my friends now.

A pipe on the end of a ratchet helps alot but i broke two craftsman wrenches in the same day doing this
 
#91 ·
I broke a bolt off at the right rear upper shock mount. Tried to remove it by drilling a hole into the bolt and turning with an ez-out. The ez-out broke in the bolt. After much cursing and soul searching I did the only thing that I could. I cut a hole in the tub to access the welded nut and dremmeled it off.



The hole is still there. I think I'll make a removable access plate for it.
 
#92 ·
you could have just taken off the body mounts up to just in front of the doors, then jacked up the body and stuck your dremel in there...no need to cut the tub next time!
 
#94 ·
I left it as it is with the new hardware...I figure if I ever have to get at it again, I only need to lift the body enough to get a socket on it.

The reason it was tackwelded in the first place was just to make it the same effect as a nutsert. But the bolts are small enough and weak enough grade 5 hardware that they just rust and snap...I broke all 4 of them :brickwall


As for your hole, I would just weld a plate over it and then paint it and call it a day. I doubt anyone will ever even notice it once you patch it up.
 
#95 ·
I put aa 3" BDS lift in a 97 TJ and you will want-pb Blaster, spring comp., my pitman arm puller broke and had to use a cut off tool to cut the pitman arm off of the steering box. (Be careful you don't have to cut all the way through, cut 80%-90% and take a hammer and chisel and it will pop right off!) also make sure your transfer case will go into 4lo before you go wheelin.....LOL
 
#96 ·
3 in lift with stock shocks

is it okay to use stock shocks with a 3 in lift kit? i dont have enough money right now for shocks so i was going to buy the coil ubolts and add a leaf kit and then use stock shocks would that be bad or could it be done untill i have enough money for good shocks?
 
#97 ·
this is a test
 
#100 ·
buy replacement leaf spring bolts

if your rig had stock springs on it for many winters of salted roads like mine, just buy the new spring eye bolts kit when you buy your lift. i was able to reuse my fronts but had to use a sawsall to cut of the rear ones. they were rusted to the inner bushings and no amount of PB or hammering would get them out. it's easier to just buy a bunch of metal blades and cut them suckers off.
 
#104 ·
I'm new to the whole jeep thing so don't tear me up to bad by asking this. I have recently bought my girlfriends dad 1980 CJ-7 Renegade and want to lift it but am also concerned about cost. I was wondering if anyone had an opinion of a full suspension overhaul with new springs and shocks or if the spring block lift kits would give me what I'm looking for.If I go the spring block way, would I still need a drop pitman arm and a transfer case drop kit? I plan on doing mild off-roading such as trail riding and such and am going to run 33'' Mickey Thompsons. I would appreciate any suggestions.
 
#107 ·
depends on the lift, the quality of the install and the fitness of the rest of your jeep.
 
#108 ·
I just put a set of axles with skyjacker lift already on them. My rig is a 76 CJ7 and as far as I can tell the axles are from a 78. Had a few other advantages like disk up front and 3.54's so I can get down the highway. The problem is it came with a sway bar and on my 76 there's no place to mount it. I suppose I need to weld a cross brace in but don't want it to interfere with the steering stabilizer mount I have to install also. Any suggestion or pics on how it's done.

Thanks Jim

Do it right the first time:)
 

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