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The Jeep With No Name Teardown and Rebuild

351K views 3K replies 141 participants last post by  FLynes 
#1 ·
The Jeep With No Name Teardown and Rebuild (Lots of Pics)

Okay folks, we finally had a day of great weather, temperature was lowest it's been in months, so I decided to finally start the teardown on The Jeep With No Name. The plan is to restore it back to original showroom condition. I want it to look as nice as Keith460's. This build is going to take years, so be patient. I took a load of pictures today; let me know what I'm doing right, or what I could be doing smarter.

Fred
 

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#1,567 ·
I should have taken a picture of it but, while I was at the alignment shop, there was a TJ on the alignment rack next to my CJ. The similarities were striking and the tail lights haven't changed at all.
 
#1,570 ·
I finally got around to installing the rocker moldings today; I'm pretty happy with the results. I ended up using 5/16 elevator bolts and it cost me a total of six dollars for all 10 with the nuts.
 

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#1,571 ·
Heater core leak!!!! :brickwall:brickwall:brickwall:brickwall

I can't say it's not bad, because when a heater core leaks, it's never good, but right now it's more of a weeping.

Frick.
 
#1,575 ·
I replaced the hose clamps and made sure they were tightened; the ones that were on there were cheap chinese crap, so I'll keep an eye on it.

On another note, I've noticed that my temp gauge is reading a bit hot, when I'm driving. I've burped the hell out of the cooling system, so I know it's not air (at least I would hope it's not). I used John Strenk's gauge page; the sender (which I just replaced) is good...wire has blink with KeyON, less bright blink with it connected to sender. Gauge is 21 ohms from S to A; when the engine is at temp, wire at the gauge reads 23 ohms, so I'm figuring it's running at around 203°ish? I tested the A side with the CJ running and got massive voltage variance....I thought I read somewhere that it was supposed to be 5v constant, but it's bouncing from .02v to 9v....issue or no? The fuel gauge, by the way, is steady and reads correctly.

I'm including a picture of the gauge, when it is at idle....it's when I'm driving that it's a tick higher. Also, John, you and I were talking about sender locations....both The Jeep With No Name's engine and this engine do not have the boss tapped for the port. Here are the pics.
 

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#1,662 ·
I replaced the hose clamps and made sure they were tightened; the ones that were on there were cheap chinese crap, so I'll keep an eye on it.

On another note, I've noticed that my temp gauge is reading a bit hot, when I'm driving. I've burped the hell out of the cooling system, so I know it's not air (at least I would hope it's not). I used John Strenk's gauge page; the sender (which I just replaced) is good...wire has blink with KeyON, less bright blink with it connected to sender. Gauge is 21 ohms from S to A; when the engine is at temp, wire at the gauge reads 23 ohms, so I'm figuring it's running at around 203°ish? I tested the A side with the CJ running and got massive voltage variance....I thought I read somewhere that it was supposed to be 5v constant, but it's bouncing from .02v to 9v....issue or no? The fuel gauge, by the way, is steady and reads correctly.

I'm including a picture of the gauge, when it is at idle....it's when I'm driving that it's a tick higher. Also, John, you and I were talking about sender locations....both The Jeep With No Name's engine and this engine do not have the boss tapped for the port. Here are the pics.
Just catching up here. It actually should be jumping from 0 volts to 12 or so volts.. It is not a constant 5 volts. Older analog meters couldn't measure it accurately enough and just called it 5 volt regulator but if you put a DVM or a scope on it you would see it's really a nice sharp pulse from the regulator.

I don't think you have an original head on that engine.
 
#1,576 ·
Fred,

Do you have an IR thermometer? If so, take some readings around the thermostat housing and the radiator. At least that will confirm whether you have an overheating problem, or if it's just a defective gauge.

I have the opposite problem at the moment. It's a chilly 20 degree day, today. I just took my Ol' Girl for a 30 minute drive and noticed the factory gauge barely got to the green line. My IR thermometer confirmed the gauge is accurate. It measured only 136 degrees at the t-stat housing. Normally it's right around 190. I suspect my t-stat is stuck in the fully open position. We'll see.

Matt
 
#1,577 ·
No, I don't have an IR thermometer, Matt. I did pop the top on the rad and it's not bubbling and I can tell when the new thermostat opens and closes, so I'm not particularly worried about overheating, but I would like to know why the gauge is reading hotter than it should. I might take the speedo out and swap in another gauge to see if there's a difference....I have two or three others.
 
#1,582 ·
On Clay's '79 258, and on my '85 258, there is a port on the pass side of the block for the temp sending unit... if that's what you were talking about the boss not being tapped? I'm guessing you have the same port??

What is an elevator bolt??
 
#1,583 ·
On Clay's '79 258, and on my '85 258, there is a port on the pass side of the block for the temp sending unit... if that's what you were talking about the boss not being tapped? I'm guessing you have the same port??

What is an elevator bolt??
I didn't take a look at the passenger side, but the temp wire goes right to the front, so I'm assuming that the sender is where it's supposed to be. I'll take a look tomorrow.

An elevator bolt is a round disc with a bolt welded to it, square at the base of the disc. I found mine at the local Fastenal store...the 5/16"-20 was a perfect fit for the track, but the 1/4"-20 was just a tad short....here's a pic.

Also, I don't know how I did it, but I took the speedo apart, took the temp gauge apart, blew on it and cleaned the thin resistor wires, put everything back together and the gauge is reading perfectly normal now.
 

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#1,589 ·
I don't see your avatar. Check your PMs and see if you are limited to to 10. If you are then your membership "expired". I got bumped, twice! It got fixed both times, with Eddie's help.

So, an elevator bolt is the same as a carriage bolt?

And when I was talking about the port for the temp on the pass side of the block, I was talking mechanical gauge. Not sure why I thought you were going that way??
 
#1,590 ·
I don't see your avatar. Check your PMs and see if you are limited to to 10. If you are then your membership "expired". I got bumped, twice! It got fixed both times, with Eddie's help.

So, an elevator bolt is the same as a carriage bolt?

And when I was talking about the port for the temp on the pass side of the block, I was talking mechanical gauge. Not sure why I thought you were going that way??
It was the membership....never got a message for renewal though, weird.

My understanding is that carriage bolts have more of a rounded headed, vice the elevator bolt, which has a flat head.

No, electrical gauge is what I'm using.
 
#1,591 ·
Not weird, I haven't gotten a notice with the new owners , for the last 2 renewals.
Still getting parse errors, ( no clue what that is!)

Billy

Bill
 
#1,592 ·
I forgot there were new owners....oh well, membership renewed.

My Motorola radio is finished, guy is still doing up the paperwork and will give me the total sometime this week.

Took the family out to Twin Buttes Reservoir, which really isn't anymore....it's at less than 10% capacity.....and we went on some trails, nothing hard, but everyone had a great time. Brooke took a pic from the back seat, on the way there. I am quite impressed with the way this little CJ handles....just like a billy goat.
 

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