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high steer plus front axle wheelbase extension question

812 views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  fishtruck 
#1 ·
Analysis Paralysis

I am doing the research to convert to high steer or cross over steer setup - with the main goal of getting rid of tie rod roll and tightening up the steering. I want to leave options open to extend the wheelbase on the front side without having to move the steering box... (if possible). I see three options for the high steer kit... but two of them look like I would end up with collisions between the drag link and tie rod if the axle was moved forward.

1. Rock Road High Steer http://www.rocky-road.com/yj-high-steer.html
2. Goferit Tie Rod Flip http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

But... changing to a setup where the drag link attaches to a high steer knuckle would separate the drag link and the tie rod. Does this give me more latitude to push the axle forward? Or... does the draglink just hit the axle and you have to move the steering box anyway?
3. Teraflex http://www.quadratec.com/products/1...oglemerchant&gclid=CPmHtv6g07wCFa5DMgodwC8AwQ
 
#2 ·
And now to answer my own question.... I found it in the moving steering box treads, how to not move your steering box. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/41910-yj-steering-box-move-forward.html

By the way, I have HP 30 axle on the front and SOA on 35 s.

So, I guess the teraflex kit looks like the best option of the three in terms of being friendly for an axle move up later. A WJ knuckle swap looks like another option that might work, and I'll bet there are others. Thanks for any comments, ideas, or encouragement!
 
#7 ·
How much stretch where you planning? This is pretty important. One issue you will encounter is that the hump in the frame will no longer be where it needs to be in relation to your axle and steering arms. You want to make sure you mock it all up with the proper sized steering link tubing. you will find that the larger you go the harder it is to fit every thing and more potential bind. You can push it forward an inch or two and get away with a small steering box-bracket move or you can go for several inches and cut and straighten the frame and do a totally different box with custom mount etc. etc. A tierod flip will not generally work in the SOA configuration. Personally dont care for the bolt-on brackets and would either go terra flex knuckle or a WJ knuckle swap. If you do the terra knuckle order it blank and drill your hole in the right place. The factory hole-to-upper ball joint distance is too great.
 
#9 ·
Love your avatar. Totally badass. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Probably just two inches up front with wagoneer springs. Then, another two to five inches on the back if needed. My main goal is to make the rig easier to drive TO the trails - and keep it on 35s. So... my thought process was to get rid of the play in the steering. Then, lengthen the wheelbase up front. Then... if needed lengthen it out back. If it really goes well... I might even be able to use the Jeep as a backup commuter in foul weather. As it is... it just feels a little squirrely above 60 mph.

So... I guess I am also trying to get feedback from people who have done the waggy front and back wheelbase... was 4 inches (2 front 2 back enough)?
 
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