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My TJ LCOG build "Uncharted"

60K views 276 replies 49 participants last post by  IceKnight 
#1 ·
I've had my Jeep for awhile and I think it's time to start a build thread about it. I'll start out from when I purchased it, working my way through the pics I have and the changes I have made to it since…and then show what I'm doing currently, which is starting with a frame I purchased.

My overall goal is to have a capable and street-able Jeep (its going to be my DD), something that works properly all the time and I don't have to give the "explanation" on its quirks every time I hand the keys to someone new driving it.
So let's get into it.

The day I purchased my Jeep.
It's a 1998 TJ Sport
4" No name lift
33x12.50r15 Futura Dakota RVT

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Over time I did the normal stuff we all do, front and rear bumpers, rocker guards, suspension, exhaust, tires etc... and it looked like this.

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Keep scrolling to see what its looking like now.

Frame
2000
Completely stripped
Coated inside and out with Rust Bullet
New motor mounts
New front track bar mount
New steering linkage mount
Newly fabed rear control arm mounts
Reinforced rust prone areas of frame
New transfer case nutserts
New Classic Tube SS brake lines

Motor
4.6L I-6
4.2 Crank
Brown Dog MML
Icon IC944 .30 pistons
Comp Cams 68-232-4
Mopar performance valve springs / Retainers - 5249464 / 4452032
Mopar performance head gasket - 4529242
Arp head studs
Melling oil pump
62mm TB
Fuel Pump, lines, Ford 24lb Injectors
FAL Fan
Aluminum Radiator
Header
Banks Exhaust
Hi Flow cat
New Gaskets
New Bearings
Custom mounted Amsoil cone filter w/pre-filter

Transmission/Transfer Case
Advanced Adapters SYE
Advanced Adapters Braided Stainless Clutch Line
Novak Transfer Case Shifter
Tom Woods Rear Drive Shaft

Suspension
OME 2.5 HD springs
OME L series shocks
JKS Control arms upper and Lower
JKS Quicker Discos
TNT Front track bar (with replacement frame bracket)
Rokmen .5 body lift
Rokmen bump stops extensions
Rokmen rear spring relocator kit
New bumper jounces

Axles
Front
2000 HP Dana 30
4.10
Solid differential cover
Lube locker
New upper control arm bushings
Gusseted lower control arm mounts and upper control arm mount
New Rotors and Pads
SS Brake Lines
- locker, RCV's, Artec truss, Currie steering

Rear
1999 Ford 8.8
Ford Racing LSD Clutch Packs
4.10
Solid differential cover
Lube locker
New Rotors and Pads
Currie 8.8 brake line kit
Artec Truss
Yukon 8.8 Axles
- Locker

Armor
Rokmen HiLine Tube Fender
Rokmen Stryker Steel Corners
Rokmen Transfer Case Skid
Rokmen Gas Tank Skid
Rokmen Rocker Guards
Rokmen Power Steering Skid
Poison Spyder BFH II Rear Bumper
Mopar Front Rock Bumper

Recovery
Warn M8000-s
Front & Rear Shackles
Misc straps and pulleys

Rims and Tires
Black Rock 15x8
Goodyear MT/R Kevlar 35x12.50R15
Dyna beads

Page Jumps
Frame repair, trans case nutserts - Page 2
Frame and parts painting - Page 3
Front and rear axle, rolling chassis, SYE Install Write up - Page 4
Light head port smoothing, grille mounted indicator lights, motor build - Page 6
Body mount replacement, fuel pump install, 7 staples in my head :), brake line work, 4'' tail light install - Page 7
Grille painting, Artec truss (8.8) install, Rokmen rear spring perches install, Yukon Ultimate 88 install - Page 9
Front side markers, hidden reverse lights, EVAP mount adjustments for Rokmen tube fenders, Rokmen rocker guards lined up and cut for fitment fender match - Page 10
Part 1 of sound bar build (8'' sub in bar) - Page 11
Dual switch panel fab and install - Page 12
Relay install, intake install - Page 14
Parking brake routing, LED lights, Transfer case shifter, custom knob, Ford 8.8 LSD clutch install - Page 15
 

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#146 ·
I also got my rear bumper in. Needs a little more clearance for perfect fitment before getting painted which Ill be taking care of later on this week.

I also measured the front bumper where the tow hook is and its just over 1/2 inch, so Ill be doing a small amount of grinding on that for proper fitment of the steering skid.
 

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#154 ·
I ended up building a few things yesterday. I made a mount for my radiator overflow tank, a tramp stamp to finish off the 3/16 armor around the back and a big chunk of steel to hold my oh so precious licence plate and light lol.

I also replaced my rear 8.8 clutch packs in the LSD with the Ford racing discs should help things hook up a little better (fingers crossed) until I get a full case locker (I have a build up on this)

I still have to cut the new hood I got, after messing up my last one I have been avoiding in although I really want to see what it looks like actually on my Jeep not to mention I have to drill the holes for the hood pins.
 
#160 ·
Hey man, been busy that's for sure. You?

I'm almost done, have to cut, weld and paint my hood. Install my transfer case shifter. Torque all front end hardware. Finish interior. Paint rockers etc...
Purchase my rear drive shaft... speaking of which I'm trying to choose between Tom Woods and Adams Driveshaft any user suggestions/experiences?
 
#161 ·
IceKnight said:
Hey man, been busy that's for sure. You?

I'm almost done, have to cut, weld and paint my hood. Install my transfer case shifter. Torque all front end hardware. Finish interior. Paint rockers etc...
Purchase my rear drive shaft... speaking of which I'm trying to choose between Tom Woods and Adams Driveshaft any user suggestions/experiences?
Personally for a custom one I'd go with Tom woods. Just has a better name. He did some work on my dads trucks drive shaft and it was awesome!
 
#162 ·
I think I am going to be going with a TW driveshaft. Shooting to order it on Monday.

Haven't had a ton of extra time this week to work on the jeep, my f250 has been running like junk so I have been working on it.

But I have managed to get the hood cut and back on, not going to bother with paint just yet, more focused on getting my transfer case shifter in this weekend and bending the transmissions shifter as well if this nasty head cold breaks.

 
#163 ·
So, I've had the flu this week and I have had basically no motivation to work on the Jeep so I thought I would do a little write-up about my new custom sound bar that I have been working on to replace my sound bar that housed two 6.5 JL Audio subs and two Pioneer 6.5's. This new build will be housing a set of Polk 6.5's and a Pioneer 8 inch subwoofer.

This is what I plan on running for audio equipment (unless CES 2014 offers up something better)

Head Unit: Alpine CDE-HD149BT
Amp: Alpine PDX-5
Front Speakers: Polk Audio MM521
Rear Speakers: Polk Audio MM651
Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-SW841D

To start this build off, I needed to strip the sound bar down, which was quite easy this time because apparently the glue guy at the factory was being a bit stingy, I'm not complaining, it made my life easier. Obviously I removed the speakers, lights and then pulled the outer cover off along with thick and thin foam off.


Next was to remove the section of metal where I would be building the frame of the sub enclosure. I choose to put the sub on the driver's side, so passengers in the back would not hit their heads getting in and out. I only needed three cuts because one side was only held in by a slotted/bent tab arrangement.


Next I cut three pieces of mdf to build out the walls of the enclosure. I did these a little over sized and slowly sanded them down for a nice sung fit.

Next I moved on to the base of the enclosure, I started with paper and then transferred it to Masonite and curved the sharp edge to the angle I wanted.



Happy with the fitment of the three sides I glued them in place with two part glue. If you notice I positioned the wood only half way under the metal. I did this so I would have something to staple the fabric for the top of the enclosure to. I also prepped the painted area so the adhesive would bite in for a nice strong hold for the base of the enclosure. You'll see four holes drilled in it as well. I did that so I could bolt the base in while the glue set up.

Next I built the frame to hold the sub and test fit it for clearances. Everything looked good so I glued it all in place. You can see in the second picture that the four holes that I had drilled for holding the base in place have been filled in. By this time the glue had dried up and was more than strong enough to hold the structure. You will also notice that on the right side of the sound bar, along the metal, I drilled many small holes. These holes will act as anchor points for the fabric to be glued to allowing me to create the shape of the enclosure. The speaker ring has also had a slight change; that being the small lip I routed into it so I had a place staple the fabric down leaving a nice smooth finished edge in the end for the speaker to mount to.


Here is the fabric all stapled/glued down and ready for fiberglass resin. I keep saying fabric, what this is, is unbacked speaker box carpet. It stretches in every direction and after it is soaked with resin you end up with an extremely rigid shell.

I popped it onto the roll bar real quick to see how it would look. It will be a nice clean fit, sort of hiding in plain sight.


Mixed up the fiberglass resin and soaked the fabric, let things cure up and then sanded it down.


I then added some Rage Gold body filler and sanded it down again, slapped on a quick layer of paint and that is where is sits now.


My plan to finish the sound bar is to wrap the speaker side with vinyl and then create a top cap to attach to it covering the wires leaving a clean finished custom sound bar. I will add my finishing steps to this when it's complete.
 
#184 ·
Wow
 
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