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What did you do to your TJ today?

11M views 119K replies 9K participants last post by  OldJeepBum 
#1 ·
OK, I stole the idea from the YJ forum but it's a great idea so let this thread be an inspiration for all of us doing mods, maintenance, or repairs to our TJ's! :D

Personally, I installed my trusty Uniden CB into my new Rubicon. :thumbsup:
 
#90,562 ·
You oughta learn sum about batteries before you do that. Better yet, go grab both terminals at the same time and figure out how harmless your planned deterrent really is.
Granted, the whole body is part of the ground anyway, so it's just not that easy... but ... if some a-hole is messin' with your car, they deserve whatever shock and bodily damage they get! (Then again.. here in Texas we take protecting our personal property a bit more seriously than you folks in California ;) )
 
#90,567 ·
Until those control arm ends start cracking the mounts on the frame and axles...
The other end is a Duroflex joint. I have wheeled plenty of times on double sided bushing joints with no issue, and have never had an issue with these. The Duro is on the frame side, bushing on axle, and I think it's going to have a pretty hard time breaking the 1/4" Artec axle mounts.
 
#90,569 ·
The other end is a Duroflex joint. I have wheeled plenty of times on double sided bushing joints with no issue, and have never had an issue with these. The Duro is on the frame side, bushing on axle, and I think it's going to have a pretty hard time breaking the 1/4" Artec axle mounts.
Your bushing on the axle end of the control arm doesn't relieve the stress applied to the mount that its installed in, that also puts additional stress on the Duroflex joint... IMO
 
#90,570 ·
Your bushing on the axle end of the control arm doesn't relieve the stress applied to the mount that its installed in, that also puts additional stress on the Duroflex joint... IMO
The only stress it would produce that the Duroflex can't counter is side to side lateral stress, due to the fact the bushing can't rotate side to side. However, I do not see that ever being significant enough to damage the stock frame mount. The rotational stresses will be much more significant but the rotation from the Duro joint will handle those. It doesn't provide nearly as much stress as the double bushing arms they replaced. These are not permanent anyways. Just have to last me another year or two until I can gather the supplies needed to stretch and 4 link the rear end.
 
#90,571 ·
Granted, the whole body is part of the ground anyway, so it's just not that easy... but ... if some a-hole is messin' with your car, they deserve whatever shock and bodily damage they get! (Then again.. here in Texas we take protecting our personal property a bit more seriously than you folks in California ;) )
I grew up next door to Texas and have been using a firearm of some sort since I was in the third grade. CA or not, wanna come messing around with my personal property against my wishes, you do so at the extreme risk of perforation of some sort, but thanks for the stereotype.

Also thanks for missing my oh so obvious point which was not about his protecting his personal property, but his highly misinformed methodology. A 12v car battery simply won't shock you and you can prove it by touching both terminals at the same time. Only the ignorant think that can work. If you would like to get a capacitor or coil and hook it up to the battery to drive the voltage up high enough to do some good, that will work, but otherwise, not so much.

All you need to do is make sure some lady out for a stroll with her munchkins doesn't lose control of them long enough to let them enjoy your vandal deterrent. That would be a really crappy way to lose your rig.
 
#90,572 ·
I grew up next door to Texas and have been using a firearm of some sort since I was in the third grade. CA or not, wanna come messing around with my personal property against my wishes, you do so at the extreme risk of perforation of some sort, but thanks for the stereotype.

Also thanks for missing my oh so obvious point which was not about his protecting his personal property, but his highly misinformed methodology. A 12v car battery simply won't shock you and you can prove it by touching both terminals at the same time. Only the ignorant think that can work. If you would like to get a capacitor or coil and hook it up to the battery to drive the voltage up high enough to do some good, that will work, but otherwise, not so much.

All you need to do is make sure some lady out for a stroll with her munchkins doesn't lose control of them long enough to let them enjoy your vandal deterrent. That would be a really crappy way to lose your rig.
he needs one of these
 
#90,575 ·
Recieved new skid plate nutserts from mr.blaine... Gonna spend tomorrow repairing the two that are spinning on Mr.0IIIIIII0's TJ.

Yay for me.

If that goes well, I may be cutting the stock fenders down in to flatties. Been going back and forth on that.

Sent from my TJ
 
#90,576 ·
Recieved new skid plate nutserts from mr.blaine... Gonna spend tomorrow repairing the two that are spinning on Mr.0IIIIIII0's TJ.

Yay for me.

If that goes well, I may be cutting the stock fenders down in to flatties. Been going back and forth on that.

Sent from my TJ
do it i like mine for now until i hiline id like to get the mce fenders on top of them

 
#90,577 ·
Finally installed a new HVAC mode switch that a forum member was nice enough to send me... Still only blowing from the defrost, but now I have another problem as a result of it. I think the shaft might have been longer on the switch that he sent me, because the knob won't fit back on. I can hold the knob on the shaft to select different modes, but the knob itself won't sit flush inside the opening enough to stay on. Did I do something silly wrong? You can only install the switch one way.

Any input on why it's STILL only blowing through the defrosters would be absolutely fantastic. Temp's have been in the low 20's and 30's at night here already, and will surely get much colder as we get into the winter. This is something I can't put off any longer. I'm going to look for an entire new non-a/c HVAC unit in the meantime.

Also, I'm pretty sure I've found why speed 4 has never worked. The plug on the inside of the speed switch is clearly melted. I guess I'll add that to the ever growing list of things I need just to make my TJ...normal.
When mine did that there was s vacuum leak under the hood right by the fire wall.
 
#90,578 ·
rbkelley89 said:
do it i like mine for now until i hiline id like to get the mce fenders on top of them http://s746.photobucket.com/user/skater4419/media/jeep_zpsf4d91f95.png.html
Exactly what I had in mind. I'd like to use some 2" LED parking/turn lights I found on amazon, just realized I never got around to ordering them so I might have to push this project off for a little bit. Sent from my TJ

Just curious, how much lift/tire are you running? Looks to be about the same as me.
 
#90,580 ·
Now I'm having serious starter issues... but I can't seem to find any information about anyone having a similar issue. I've heard the typical click and/or grinding noises when dealing with a starter issue, but mine is drastically different. It makes a noise that's really hard to describe. I guess it sounds like something is spinning and not catching, but there's no clicking. It's almost an electrical noise.

My battery is new, and I'm certain it's not an issue with my battery.

I don't have a multimeter or anything, but has anyone heard this scenario before? Is it safe to assume it's an issue with the starter and that I'm not going to be wasting my money if I pick one up and install? Never done a starter in a TJ. Easy to access?
 
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