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Paul's 1984 CJ-7 Build Thread

149K views 1K replies 69 participants last post by  Jim1611 
#1 ·
As summer gets close to ending, its time to begin thinking about the rebuild of my '84 CJ-7. Actually, I have been thinking about it for quite some time and now it is time to get on it. Keith460, Fatman, Coiz and 243's builds have inspired me to give it a go. :thumbsup: I probably look at these builds several times a month. My plans are simple... rebuild/refurbish/replace everything that is wrong with it. I'm not going for an OEM restoration but build something close to stock with modifications to suit me.

I have already done a lot over the past three years. I have a spare 258 at the machine shop now. I have a beautitful 79 or 80 frame and a YJ tub for my build. I have already rebuilt both axles (still need to re-gear the D30), TF999 and D300 as well as other major components.

I will begin on the frame this weekend. I need to weld a few nuts, move the rear body mount holes. Once I strip the old frame figure out position for the bolt-on shock mounts (I cut the older welded style off already). I also need to measure to drill new holes and weld nuts for the skid. The hole positions on this frame are much different than mine.

If I can find a reasonable price I will have it sand blasted and primed with epoxy primer. If not, I will do it myself. Although the thought of that mess in my driveway will put me in the dog house with the wife.

Well, there it is... the official start to my build thread. The wife does not want me to do it because she loves riding in the CJ. But I ain't getting any younger and now is the right time. I hate to put a timeline on it, but since I have already rebuilt and painted many of the major components I am hoping I can do it in a year. I know... wishful thinking....
 

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#1,002 ·
Paul. Just read up all of your thread in the past 2 days. What mad skills and patience you have! I learned allot from your thread and saved many pictures of things I haven't gotten to yet that will really help.

I just got my tub off today and will soon be practicing the fine art of procrastination as it is much "worserer" than I thought.

Thanks and keep pressing on. :)
 
#1,004 ·
I think that the ribs under the roll bar pads contribute to the rotting, since they allow moisture and dirt underneath the pads.

I suppose they could be seam-sealed, but I chose to use a flat piece of sheet metal under mine.

Matt
 

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#1,005 ·
Paul,

Another reason for the rotting under the roll bar pads is due to the fact that the end of the U-channel brace is open and exposed to road grime from the tires.

My solution was to tack weld a simple cap over the end of the U-channel.

Hope this helps,

Matt
 

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#1,007 ·
Paul,

Another reason for the rotting under the roll bar pads is due to the fact that the end of the U-channel brace is open and exposed to road grime from the tires.

My solution was to tack weld a simple cap over the end of the U-channel.

Hope this helps,

Matt
Thanks Matt, I think I might do the same. My channel was packed full of crud!
 
#1,010 ·
Nice work. Your B pillar still looks to be in great shape. Yes, I would use the copper backer. I found that even cutting back the old metal to the good stuff it still has an easier tendency to blow thru. Cut a length of wood to hold it up tight to the bottom side from the floor if the magnets don't want to cooperate.
 
#1,014 ·
Looks like you need a little more heat, Paul. Your weld appears to be sitting on top more than blended into the tub metal. Turn up the voltage a little and weld. See what you get.
 
#1,016 ·
Did some more cutting this morning. This side went much smoother than the other. Maybe I am getting better at this. Hope to finish up by tomorrow on these patches and on to the driver floor pan. My air hose coupler sprung a massive leak so it is break time and off to Lowes.
 

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#1,018 ·
Well, realistically I probably won't be ready to send it off to the media blaster until November. And that is my problem now. I want to spray the bottom with epoxy primer and Gravitex and I am afraid it will be too cold by then. And I don't want it to sit bare metal all winter so I may opt to hold off until late March. I can use the winter to finalize and power coat all the accessories, etc. I am not going to paint the whole thing in my garage. Just the bottom and inside so I can seam seal and take it to a painter.
 
#1,019 ·
Paul, 2 1500 watt heaters can work wonders for taking the chill out of a garage. I buy 2 cheap heaters ($21each. ) every year, and get the 1 year warranty, in the spring I take them back because they stopped working) Menards, lowes, Home Depot) they run pretty much 24/7. 3 to $4 bucks a day to operate. It's just enough to keep me working.

And practice makes perfect!

Bill
 
#1,021 ·
It is YJ tub! I plan to clean up the channel and coat it. I actually may use the same stuff I used on the inside of my frame from Eastwood. Yeah, I wondered the same thing about why there were two capture nuts there. I have done all of the YJ-CJ mods and these three spots were the only rust on the tub.
 
#1,022 ·
Yep, that's what I used in spaces like that, that would be concealed. Their internal frame paint. I would then grind away small circles and hole edges where the spot welds would go for good contact and penetration.:thumbsup:
 
#1,025 ·
finally got around to finishing the two small patches under the roll bar. Turned out pretty good. Now onto the biggest patch and I am done welding on the tub. Mostly cut out. I need to cut the spot welds on the side of the tub. I may just lap weld the front and inside edge. I have one of those tools that stamps the metal down to make a seat. I dunno...
 

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