Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

04 Rubicon Rear Locker Leaking??

8K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  JeepingNet 
#1 ·
Whenever I try to lock the rear axle, the light just flashes on the dash. The front locks fine.
I've traced everything back with the wiring and everything is good.
I've traced all the air lines back and fixed all small leaks.
However, I have a HUGE air leak coming out of a "vent" line that is located on top of the drivers side axle tube. The tube comes out right next to the brake line distribution block that mounts to the axle.
I'm assuming that it's a vent line because the hose goes above the gas tank and runs up next to the gas tank filler neck and has a white "cap" on it that let's air out but keeps large particles out.
Any idea why the locker won't engage and the air is just bypassing through the vent hose? :confused
 
#3 ·
The hose is probably off the nipple it attaches to, I put a small zip-tie on mine just to keep it from coming off, since I heard that some eventually do.

But like number40fan said, pop off the diff cover and take a look....be sure to buy some new gear oil and drain the old first though, or you'll have a surprise when you pop the cover.
 
#6 ·
Well, didn't have much luck. Pulled the cover off, couldn't see any issues with the line. I engaged the locker and the air seems to be leaking within the locker somewhere. I can't physically pinpoint the location, but positive it is not coming from the line.
Is there some type of rebuild kit or something for them? Is the locker made by ARB? I'm not having much luck finding any information on it. Help!!
 
#7 ·
That sounds exactly like what happened to my '04 Rubicon's rear locker, it sprang a small pinhole leak inside its internal bladder that is used to lock it up. Replacing the bladder inside the locker is not difficult, finding one may be a little more difficult but try Google's shopping site at www.froogle.com where I found two listed. I just happened to get one from a JF member who happened to have a used one on hand. New, the bladder is $150 or so.

The first photo shows the bladder itself with the old bladder still installed on the left, the replacement is in my hand. The second photo shows it installed... that nipple that leads under the bearing cap leads to it.

The part number for the air bladder, officially called an "Actuator, Air Locker" is 52104611AA.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Hey, Jerry, don't mean to dig up an old thread but after much diagnosis, pretty sure my rear 2004 Rubicon that is new to me has a diaphragm leak, checked the internal and external hoses and connections, swapped connections to compressors since the rear kept cycling for 1.5 seconds with the key off and not the front so I swapped lines to test it, no dice. So my question is I'm going to re-gear anyways, how hard is the job of replacing the diaphragm and did it fix the blinking light problem and did the fix hold up over time? Funny part is the rear still locks, just blinks, buuuut when I go up a steep hill incline or a Back up a steep incline, the light goes solid....
 
#10 ·
The used air bladder I bought from JF member Mudb8 and installed 4-5 years ago is still holding up fine. Replacing the air bladder once the locker has been removed is easy and very straight forward.

Here's a pic of the locker and air bladder from when I replaced it.
 

Attachments

#11 ·
The used air bladder I bought from JF member Mudb8 and installed 4-5 years ago is still holding up fine. Replacing the air bladder once the locker has been removed is easy and very straight forward.

Here's a pic of the locker and air bladder from when I replaced it.
Ok Cool, I am a gear dummy. I will be regearing here in the next few weeks, is it easy to get this done at this time? what kind of extra time should I be looking at while regearing to swap out the bladder? Thanks again
 
#15 ·
Somebody at Summit copy and pasted the description from the front axle disconnect vacuum actuator for a YJ to the Rubicon locker diaphragm product page :shhh:
 
#20 ·
It's highly likely it's not the bladder. Probably a connection somewhere along the line. Disconnect the tube at the outside of the differential, hit the locker button, and put your finger over the end to seal it. If the compressor does the cycling thing, there is a hole in the line between the compressor and differential. It's harder to test the inside of the differential, but it is likely the connection between the bladder and the outside of the differential.
 
#22 ·
The actuator contains the bladder so buying a new actuator would get you a new bladder too.

I'm holding the new replacement actuator upside-down here, the bladder is the black rubber part. You can see the top of the old leaky actuator sitting on top of the locker to the left that I was about to replace.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
It should be noted that replacing the bladder isn't a simple process since you need to pull the bearings on that side of the case. So depending on the tools you have, it might be a job for a shop. I couldn't get my bearing puller in between the bearing and bladder so I had to cut my bearing off.

I suggest buying some 3/16 tubing and "Replacement Black Manual Inflation Blood Pressure Latex Bulb with Air Release Valve" it will help troubleshoot and you can fully replace most (not the bladder) the system on the trail with this.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top