I've been enjoying reading everyone else's builds, thought I would throw mine up here. I bought this Jeep about 10 yrs ago. PO had the AMC 360, a 3" BL and a 4" Skyjacker lift on 33s. Rode like a go cart the springs were so stiff.
I had the 360 built. It now puts out 325hp and 400ft/ lbs
Oh yeah. I will definitely drive it on the street. My goal from the start has been dual sport. I want to feel safe letting my wife drive the kids around in it. I have a sales meeting in Pheonix in January. I plan to drive it there, leave it at a friends house. Fly home, then fly back in Feb and go watch KOH.
1" .250 wall tube I welded in between the rear shock mounts. The back seat goes in front and the fuel cell behind it so you will never see it. Should stiffen up the mounts and give me a place to weld some seat belt mounts
Nothin says Bling like some brand new Kings. They suggested I start out with a 300lbs over 300. That sounds way too much and I don't understand why you would want to run the same spring rate on a dual rate set up. Doesn't that defeat the purpose?
Got the shock mounts done and painted along with the grill hoop. Added the LED light bar to the bottom of the hoop. I don't really like the looks of it, maybe b/c I don't think you should have rectangular lights on a CJ. Functionally, I think it will give the best light without glare or trail damage. You an also see the power steering cooler behind it.
Got the shock mounts done and painted along with the grill hoop. Added the LED light bar to the bottom of the hoop. I don't really like the looks of it, maybe b/c I don't think you should have rectangular lights on a CJ. Functionally, I think it will give the best light without glare or trail damage. You an also see the power steering cooler behind it.
Yea I never liked the look of the "light bar" I would prefer a "typical" round light style led lights myself...and by trail damage you mean to the light correct???....I know it's a stupid question but with all the "eco-terrorists" out there ya never know...lol...
Yea I never liked the look of the "light bar" I would prefer a "typical" round light style led lights myself...and by trail damage you mean to the light correct???....I know it's a stupid question but with all the "eco-terrorists" out there ya never know...lol...
Yeah, to the light. I'd rather not destroy a 400.00 light. However, what sold me on the Ridgid was their video. They had an independent company put it through all kinds of stuff. Shot it. Still worked. Ran over it. Still worked. Froze it solid in a five gallon bucket, then broke it out with a sledge. Still worked.
Sold!
wow...that sounds like a pretty tough light...ive been pretty lucky with the good ol' autozone 60$ 100w round ones so far...did destroy one set but jeep was toast as well(that was a fun trip down the hill)...barrel rolled a bobed xj with no cage 5 times down a levee...does it cast light out to the side very much or primarily out front?
This is my 3rd Jeep and my second CJ. My last one was a 69 CJ5 and I learned a lot on that one. If I ever sell this one, I'd like to start with a bobbed CJ8. I really want a Double Cab Brute, but I'd have to sell my Tundra and everything else. Doesn't make sense to pay twice as much for a truck that has less interior space, towing capacity and creature comforts.
wow...that sounds like a pretty tough light...ive been pretty lucky with the good ol' autozone 60$ 100w round ones so far...did destroy one set but jeep was toast as well(that was a fun trip down the hill)...barrel rolled a bobed xj with no cage 5 times down a levee...does it cast light out to the side very much or primarily out front?
hmmmm just great...see had you said the light was average, I could have been happy with 11$ for new bulbs....now my wife will strangle me/you after I bug her telling her I need that light all the while forgetting to tell her how much it is...lol...oh wait x-mas is coming up..hehe ...:2thumbsup:
Have to give a big thanks to Matt at Exotic Exhaust in Hiram, Ga. He built a great exhaust. Brought the passenger side forward around the upper link, curved it over the driveshaft, around the front of the oil pan into the driver side. 2.25" into 3" single. I was tired of the Flowmaster due to headaches after 2+ hrs on the trail. Went with a Dynomax and its much quieter at idle but really opens up with throttle. I had Matt take it out the back as well. The side exhaust was getting old.
hmmmm just great...see had you said the light was average, I could have been happy with 11$ for new bulbs....now my wife will strangle me/you after I bug her telling her I need that light all the while forgetting to tell her how much it is...lol...oh wait x-mas is coming up..hehe ...:2thumbsup:
Was able to take the jeep for a quick spin around the hood before I headed to the airport. It stayed really flat around the corners which tells me the 4 link is much more stable in the rear than the old 3 link I had back there. The shocks are the same.
I think the spring rate is too stiff. It's sitting higher than I want and the preload adjusters are all the way out. Anyone have any suggestions?
Here is a pic at almost full droop. I think the tie rod is binding with the pitman arm. I will have to add a spacer there. Real happy with how the tie rod and drag link stay parallel through out travel. Should have zero bump steer. You can see the exhaust in the back how it had to be curved up and over the front drive shaft.
im so jealous you have gotten to drive yours already...lol...granted its hard to tell how long we actually spend on these things by the threads...anyways congrats...its a jeep...
Going to trailer the jeep to friends property this weekend to do some testing. If the frame falls apart, I would rather it happen off road. Not ready to grab my balls and drive on the highway yet.
Not a single one of my wheelin pics will upload due to file size. That blows! Anyhow, the jeep handled great off road. Much more stable than before. Picked up some extra springs from a friend to play with. 250 over 300 was way to stiff.
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