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852 views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  mckellyb 
#1 ·
I used to be on this forum ages ago...at least I'm pretty sure it's this one. Used to be a mailing list before web forums existed.

I had a '94 ZJ Limited, V8 w/Quadra-Trac, but at about 68K miles, it developed transmission problems, VC binding, and a rear main seal leak all within about three weeks of each other. We lived in the middle of nowhere, and I wanted better MPG, so I stupidly traded it in on a '99 Grand Vitara V6.

Hated that trucklet after about six months, but it did what I needed it to do...mostly.

Anyway, the 5.9 ZJ bug bit me, but this time it bit me hard. We need a vehicle to pull behind my wife and I's 40' diesel apartment (motorcoach), so we're limited to Jeep and for practicality's sake, Saturn.

"Need" might be a bit strong of a word. We've taken a few trips 'toad-less', and it's a drag to stop for groceries or try to go sight-seeing in a 40' long, 8.5' wide beast.

I could live with a Saturn wag, but only a LW300. That's not likely to happen, as there aren't a whole bunch of them around.

However...I found a 5.9L in central Illinois, which certainly has my attention. It's lifted (Rough Country 3.5", and yeah, I've read about them...the OEM stuff was rusted horribly, so it pretty much had to go, though I'd like only about a 2" lift), has four 31 x 10.5 BFG A/T's on 15" Laredo wheels but lacks a spare, has minor damage LF & RR, a well-done homebuilt front bumper on it, the sunroof works when it wants to (seller's words), but the interior is really clean. I'd prefer a white one over really dark grey, but only because being towed 3' behind a motorcoach means anything back there gets amazingly filthy in no time if it's raining.

T-case is rebuilt, trans is rebuilt, he put a U-joint driveshaft in place of the CV one, new front axles & hubs, so all that stuff are things I know are going to need attention/replacement, eventually. I'm glad it's all done, but...

The A/C has a leak. He said when he charges it, it works for a few days, then goes warm.

Mercedes had issues with the evaporators developing leaks in the W126 models, and we all know what a mess taking the dash out is. Is there a common A/C failure besides the ceramic seal in the compressor?

BTW, has 166K miles on it.

I'd know more, but I'm in Texas, and the truck is in IL. I'm headed up there next month, anyway, but have friends there who will go look at it Saturday, if I want.

It's good to be back in Jeepland!!!!

I know I need to have my friends look for rear diff whine, PS pump leaks, intake manifold leaks, any puffs of smoke on cold startup, plus and after revving it and backing off (classic worn valve seals), and overall working/non-working things, but is there anything else you can think of? The seller admits it has a low-speed shake after the lift, and it needs alignment tweaking, so it sounds like a caster issue. Normally, I'll do my own alignment work, but I'd just as soon take it to a 4WD shop and have them do it, and get it right the first time.
 
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#3 ·
Yeah, you're 100% right.

He said it's a new T-case, but I don't know if that means it's now an NP242 or just a rebuilt 249. I'd kinda like to have the 249, as I'm not likely to rock-crawl with it.
 
#4 ·
You're gonna need the t-case changed from AWD for towing IIRC . You might want to look into towing AWD vehicles , unless you have a car hauler , not a dolly . Then it's irrelevant .

Welcome back

Pinion leaks front and rear .
Check all CV's including frt drive shaft
visually inspect rotors for smoothness and feel for wear on the outside edge , both sides . Do this before driving it when they are cool to touch .
Oil leaks on back of valve covers , these can make the rear main look bad when it's not . Trans leaks on the pan , and shifter rod .
Inspect rear frame area where the upper control arms mount for rust
Look under the fender bottoms for rust , and all doors , hatch and hood
Functional interior items . Heated seats , power windows , sunroof , rear window/hatch opens good , driver's side mirror is not leaking (auto dim feature) . Check everything for working function
E-fans operate properly .
Look front bottom up at the timing chain cover for signs of leaks (common)
Check harmonic balancer , make sure it doesn't wobble
Check for plenum leaks by looking down the throttle body
Check steering and track bar by having someone turn the wheel back and forth while every joint gets looked at for play , wheels on the ground .
Check steering box for leaks

I got some fixes for other common issues here

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/newfies-favorite-links-list-1121998/
 
#5 · (Edited)
For flat-towing, all you need is a real T-case with a bona-fide neutral. Well, and you can't have one which relies on the input shaft for lubrication, either, like on Nissans and Toyotas, at least from what I've read about 'em.

Thank you for the very detailed list newfieZJ! BTW, nice brood you have, there. :D

Oh, and towing. Really, the only way to do it which isn't a drag at some point, is to have no dolly, no trailer. Drive up to the back of the coach, put it in "P", hook up the towbar/lights, get back in the toad (towed car slang), use reverse to take out the slack, trans to "N", T-case to "N", trans back to "R" to make sure the T-case really is in neutral, back to Park, ignition off, done.

Takes as long to type as it does to do, once you've done it a few dozen times.
 
#9 ·
Update. The one I was seriously considering has been summarily vetoed by my wife, which I understand, as both of us are a little crippled, and a lift might be a challenge to entry/exit.

However...it appears we're going to go get this one, http://joplin.craigslist.org/ctd/4062725991.html , Friday. Three owners, the last ones were an older (hey!) couple who, if you look closely under the front bumper cover, pulled it behind their motorcoach. That's EXACTLY why I'm looking for one of these, specifically.

The base plate, doesn't match mine, but there are adapters available to make the two mate.

The seller bought it from a local used car dealer, and it's understandable why they might not want it on their used car lot (that's an odd world, honestly), and he was very up-front with the issues it has. No spare tire/wheel (which surprised him, after I pointed it out...over the phone), the common VIC coolant error, heated seats may be on walkabout (but the indicator lights work), but otherwise, he claims it's quite nice inside and out. Oh, a cracked RF parking lamp housing, too. He didn't get back to me on the A/C, and while I know it may cost me a bit to get it 100%, I think it's one to save. CC works, as do all the windows/sunroof/seat motors...y'know, the important stuff. :)

I plan on, at most, a 2" BB, BFG A/T tires in likely a 31 x 10.5 size when the time comes, and maybe some engine performance mods, but otherwise keep it stock. Oh, and the transmission will have a shift kit put in it, too. I like to feel my automagic gearbox shift, so "harsh" shifts, for me, don't really exist.

Strangely enough, the original 5.9L wheels are gone and there are regular limited wheels on it. Still the 16" ones, but I wonder about this...

To be honest, I think I prefer, of all of them, the 'snowflake' ones which were on early limiteds. Actually, think they're called 'teardrop', but they always kinda looked like snowflakes to me.

Guess I need to find out if 15" wheels work on the 5.9L. I doubt they do, as there are very likely larger brake rotors back there... Still, my wife might be happy I'd consider putting street tires on her '02 Lexus RX300 AWD, and using the BFG A/Ts on there for the ZJ.

Y'gotta love a Lexus with A/T tires, though...
 
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