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Rear Bumper w/Swingout Tire Carrier Follow Along

1M views 2K replies 530 participants last post by  boomvader 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been making bumpers for awhile and the biggest question I get is, "When are you going to make a Rear Swingout?!" Well, I finally got most of the parts together and figured I would start today. I thought I'd post along the way with updates as the project progresses. I hope to be done by this weekend. I will post a list of the tools I used (and hopefully substitutions you can use). I will also post a list of materials I used and any useful links that might help to locate parts. Hope this thread helps someone else as Tire Carriers seem to be a pretty popular fabrication topic.

First, a word about shop safety... ya only got one pair of eyes so use the safety glasses/face shield (especially when grinding, drilling.. etc)! Also, when using loud machines (like the grinder) where ear muffs or ear plugs. Lastly, use gloves to save your hands (drilling/grinding).

Tools used:
Plasma Cutter (suppose a chop saw and jig saw could substitute but you'll be cutting for a long time).
Welder (220v wire feed nice but a stick will do)
Grinder (I use both a 7" and a 4 1/2")
Band Saw (chop saw can be used)
Drill Press (hand drill can be used)
2 1/4" bi-metal hole saw
long 1/4" drill bit
1/2" drill bit
11/16" drill bit
1" drill bit (big sucker for the clevis mount holes.. it's a PITA to do!)
Scribe
Center Punch
Tape Measure
Machinist Square
Hammer
Slag Hammer
Phosphoric Acid to clean/etch the steel (Lowe's)

Materials Used: for basic bumper...
2"x4"x1/4" wall rectangular stock 55" long (can sub thinner material if you like but I like it beefy!)
approx 7" length of 2 1/2"x2 1/2"x1/4" wall stock for receiver (can sub a store bought receiver tube.. Northern has one for like $10)
approx 7" of 2 1/2"x1/4" thick flat stock for chain plate
approx 6" length of 3"x1/4" wall square stock (for mounting legs and receiver lip)
approx 18" of 3"x3/8" thick flat stock cut in half for the bumper mounting flanges
approx 18" of 2"x1/4" thick flat stock for bumper end caps
approx one foot of 2"x3/4" thick flat stock for clevis mounts

Materials for the Swingout
2 1/2"x1/4" wall DOM Tubing (from here.. DOM Tubing)
2"OD pipe for the inner sleeve/bearing spacer(Lowe's)
1" trailer spindle rated for 1000lbs (Spindle)
Spindle Bearing Kit (Spindle Bearing )
De Sta Co 2000lb Latch (Latch
2"x3/16" wall square stock for carrier frame

That's as far as I got today with the materials list. I got most of the cutting and drilling done... here are the pics..

First, I cut the pivot tube from the 2 1/2" DOM tube.. 4 1/4" long. Then I cut an inner bearing separator from 2" OD pipe and rosette welded it in 4 places to hole it in place..

You can see the tube in the center with the sleeve in it. The rest of the stuff is the bearing kit and of course.. the 1" spindle.

Rosette welded sleeve

Sleeve with races in it

Assembled Swingout Pivot

Bumper Blank with 1 1/4" hole cut (top and bottom) for spindle... I'm tippy toeing to take the picture.. :D

Pivot test fitted to bumper.. I did this before making any other cuts on the bumper so that if I ruined it, it would be before I went through the trouble of making all the other cuts.

Drilling the 7" long 2 1/2"x1/4" wall square receiver tube for the pin.. I use a long 1/4" bit to go all the way thru both sides of the tube. That way the holes line up...

I then follow up with a 11/16" bit.

EDIT: Instead of making your own receiver tube, it's probably just as cheap and definately easier to buy one from a trailer supply store... Northern sells 6" long weld-in receiver tubes for about $11
 
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#127 ·
besrk, can you make basic bumpers for an 88 mj? im trying to find out what the cheapest bumpers are i can get. making my own isnt an option because of lack of materials and time(im a full time college student) can i get an estimate on a front basic bumper shipped to terre haute, IN
 
#128 ·
duksrule said:
BESRK if you get back into selling bumpers, I found a place local that makes boxes. They are making me 8X8X60 boxes for $6 a each. Would be cheaper but I am only buying 4.
If you can buy 25 at a time U-line has that size for $2.38 each. Maybe you guys can share if you are local to each other? HTHs.
 
#129 ·
zachv said:
Yeah, custom boxes are not real cheap. We use 12X12X70 boxes and cut them in half to make them 6X12 and then trim to length a needed. It is not too bad.

BTW, if BERSK does not mind, we offer our machined 1X2" clevis mounts that have a 1" hole for $8.50 each, plus shipping. They are 4.5" long and made to go through a 2" piece of tube. They are not on our site, but if you e-mail me I can get a shipping quote.
Im gonna need a pair of those soon

9
 
#133 ·
Sometimes, ya just gotta make time. I got off work, came home, changed clothes and did some welding in the garage (dark outside).

I might make a few bumpers after the holidays.. I'm currently working on a cage and front/rear 4 link coilover suspension on a buddy's YJ.. should be a bad*** rig. if you're still interested after Xmas, shoot me a PM then.
 
#135 ·
duksrule said:
You change clothes first? That must be why my wife is always ticked off at me.
Have to.. I'm in BDUs when I get off work (Army). I already burned a hole in one uniform.. can't afford to do it again.
 
#136 ·
Okay.. changed a few things on the current bumper that I'm making.. moved the De Sta Co latch (the new style with the safety lock) out to the end of the arm to pull down and forward. This locks the arm into a piece of angle iron. I also made a swingout locking pin to hold the arm open. Also, scraped the idea of a universal top mount for accessories and just added a Hi Lift Mount. It locks the jack into place with two bolts/wingnuts and captures the handle with a piece of tube cut in half.. here's a few pics..
Here's the angle iron mount that will capture the end of the swing arm.

... another shot of the mount from an angle view

Here is the De Sta Co latch on the end of the swing arm. It will pull the arm down and forward locking it into the angle iron mount.

Here's the same latch assembly from above..
 
#137 ·
Here's the swingarm stop...
The pieces I used... a piece of 3/8" rod, a small spring and a roll pin.

Here is the small "half moon" plate with the hole drilled in it for the stop pin.

Here's the swing arm pivot with the small piece of tube welded to it.

Here it is assembled... the spring pressure pops the pin down into the hole to hold the carrier open. The little roll pin is what keeps the spring in place on the pin.
 
#797 ·
Do you mind sharing what size OD/ID you used on the tubing for this, also what length and material of spring did you use? I want to do a similar setup for the bumper I am creating. I know I will have to buy a whole 2' chuck of 3/8 round bar and probably (guessing here) 1/2" OD DOM. But it is worth it to me to take the extra time to fab it up right the first time.
 
#138 ·
Finally the Hi Lift Mount.. a couple of pieces of 3/8" plate with bolts welded thru them to act as mounting studs for the jack's "spine". A piece of tube cut in half holds the jack handle.. it can be tapped up into place after the jack is mounted to snug up the fit reducing rattles.

Simple setup..


From the backside.. important that the jack mounts from this side as the other side will have the tire on it.


With a jack snugged in place.. zero movement.


From the other side.. after the jack is bolted on, you can tap that curved piece up a little to snug the jack handle against the jack.. keep it from rattling.


My cozy work space..
 
#139 · (Edited)
Nice! That's a pretty indestructible bumper there!

7DJEEP
 
#140 ·
I was just gonna use the single tube in the center to hold up the tire but I was afraid it might fall over so I tossed on another two to hold it up on each side. Bumper and swingarm combined weigh about 100-110 pounds. Gas mileage?.. we drive Jeeps... who cares?!
 
#141 · (Edited)
I like the way you angled the high-lift jack, looks great!


Thanks

7DJEEP
 
#145 ·
Jeep Daddy said:
I like it too. Keep up the good fab work. When are you going to adapt it for gas/water cans?
I ditched the flat plate at the top of the carrier idea. Haven't really given much further thought to it. I'm making another one for a YJ right now and might toy with gas/water can mounts.. maybe one on each side?..
 
#146 ·
Just some random pics of the last bumper I made.. might help someone get the creative juices flowing....

The Pivot Gusset is one of the bumper end pieces cut to fit.


Swing Stop to hold the Tire Carrier open..


New Latch Location.. pulling forward and down to lock the Swingarm into its mount


Small 3/16" piece to catch the bolt hole in the bottom of the frame


The center post is 18" tall..


Hi Lift Mount... tap off the wingnuts and the Jack is free..
 
#625 ·
Small 3/16" piece to catch the bolt hole in the bottom of the frame
I'm quoting a really old picture here so bare with me. Is that small strap on the bottom enough tie in to the frame to pull a small trailer? I've looked at other bumpers that had that and I didn't think that you did that on yours because you also sell a frame tie in. Is that standard on all the bumpers you make now?

Since I can't see the strap very well, is that strap basically the same as the one I see on this bumper?
 
#150 ·
BESRK said:
Just some random pics of the last bumper I made.. might help someone get the creative juices flowing....

Small 3/16" piece to catch the bolt hole in the bottom of the frame
How come this the bumper isn't tied into the frame?? :(

BTW, I'm pretty sure you're the guy I bought some D ring mounts from off of ebay back in the summer....that was awesome shipping...thanks
 
#151 ·
The paint is POR 15 with POR 15 Chassis Black sprayed over it. I shoot it kinda dry to give it a rougher texture.. I like it. The bumper I made for my wife's CJ has been on it for over a year and it still looks new.

I offered to do some weld on frame tie-ins but the owner declined. He knows the Jeeperman tie-ins are available so he might put those on in the future. We drilled the inner 2 bolt holes on each end for a total of 5 bolts on each end. Those 4 bolts coupled with the lower frame bolt. It flexes about... ummm zero.
 
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