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My TJ LCOG build "Uncharted"

60K views 276 replies 49 participants last post by  IceKnight 
#1 ·
I've had my Jeep for awhile and I think it's time to start a build thread about it. I'll start out from when I purchased it, working my way through the pics I have and the changes I have made to it since…and then show what I'm doing currently, which is starting with a frame I purchased.

My overall goal is to have a capable and street-able Jeep (its going to be my DD), something that works properly all the time and I don't have to give the "explanation" on its quirks every time I hand the keys to someone new driving it.
So let's get into it.

The day I purchased my Jeep.
It's a 1998 TJ Sport
4" No name lift
33x12.50r15 Futura Dakota RVT

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Over time I did the normal stuff we all do, front and rear bumpers, rocker guards, suspension, exhaust, tires etc... and it looked like this.

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Keep scrolling to see what its looking like now.

Frame
2000
Completely stripped
Coated inside and out with Rust Bullet
New motor mounts
New front track bar mount
New steering linkage mount
Newly fabed rear control arm mounts
Reinforced rust prone areas of frame
New transfer case nutserts
New Classic Tube SS brake lines

Motor
4.6L I-6
4.2 Crank
Brown Dog MML
Icon IC944 .30 pistons
Comp Cams 68-232-4
Mopar performance valve springs / Retainers - 5249464 / 4452032
Mopar performance head gasket - 4529242
Arp head studs
Melling oil pump
62mm TB
Fuel Pump, lines, Ford 24lb Injectors
FAL Fan
Aluminum Radiator
Header
Banks Exhaust
Hi Flow cat
New Gaskets
New Bearings
Custom mounted Amsoil cone filter w/pre-filter

Transmission/Transfer Case
Advanced Adapters SYE
Advanced Adapters Braided Stainless Clutch Line
Novak Transfer Case Shifter
Tom Woods Rear Drive Shaft

Suspension
OME 2.5 HD springs
OME L series shocks
JKS Control arms upper and Lower
JKS Quicker Discos
TNT Front track bar (with replacement frame bracket)
Rokmen .5 body lift
Rokmen bump stops extensions
Rokmen rear spring relocator kit
New bumper jounces

Axles
Front
2000 HP Dana 30
4.10
Solid differential cover
Lube locker
New upper control arm bushings
Gusseted lower control arm mounts and upper control arm mount
New Rotors and Pads
SS Brake Lines
- locker, RCV's, Artec truss, Currie steering

Rear
1999 Ford 8.8
Ford Racing LSD Clutch Packs
4.10
Solid differential cover
Lube locker
New Rotors and Pads
Currie 8.8 brake line kit
Artec Truss
Yukon 8.8 Axles
- Locker

Armor
Rokmen HiLine Tube Fender
Rokmen Stryker Steel Corners
Rokmen Transfer Case Skid
Rokmen Gas Tank Skid
Rokmen Rocker Guards
Rokmen Power Steering Skid
Poison Spyder BFH II Rear Bumper
Mopar Front Rock Bumper

Recovery
Warn M8000-s
Front & Rear Shackles
Misc straps and pulleys

Rims and Tires
Black Rock 15x8
Goodyear MT/R Kevlar 35x12.50R15
Dyna beads

Page Jumps
Frame repair, trans case nutserts - Page 2
Frame and parts painting - Page 3
Front and rear axle, rolling chassis, SYE Install Write up - Page 4
Light head port smoothing, grille mounted indicator lights, motor build - Page 6
Body mount replacement, fuel pump install, 7 staples in my head :), brake line work, 4'' tail light install - Page 7
Grille painting, Artec truss (8.8) install, Rokmen rear spring perches install, Yukon Ultimate 88 install - Page 9
Front side markers, hidden reverse lights, EVAP mount adjustments for Rokmen tube fenders, Rokmen rocker guards lined up and cut for fitment fender match - Page 10
Part 1 of sound bar build (8'' sub in bar) - Page 11
Dual switch panel fab and install - Page 12
Relay install, intake install - Page 14
Parking brake routing, LED lights, Transfer case shifter, custom knob, Ford 8.8 LSD clutch install - Page 15
 

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#81 ·
Also did a little work on my front blinkers seeing as how I'm putting tube fenders on, I moved them to the front grille.
 

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#84 ·
Thanks guys, I never had time this past weekend to finish the head, hoping over the next few days to be done. Then its on to intake manifold. I'm also working on building my own bumper but that is really taking its sweet time...(ie i need to focus on it and finish it). Ill post some build pictures of that soon also.
 
#85 ·
I finally got the block back from the machine shop and can finally get moving with this build. Aiming for this coming Fri/Sat. I laid out almost all of the parts going in the motor and started cleaning everything. Picked up a parts washer on Friday, what a great tool, so much nicer and easier to clean parts in this thing. I'm shooting to finish cleaning the parts this morning and then spray some paint this afternoon.
 

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#86 ·
So this weekend turned out to be rather productive/time consuming. Spent most of the weekend cleaning parts getting everything ready for paint so come next weekend all the parts will be ready to bolt on to the motor.

I got my Mopar Performance Dual Valve Springs installed on the head. Here is a side by side comparison of them verses the factory valve spring.
Mopar mag valve springs - P5249464
Mopar spring retainers - P4452032
Mopar valve keepers - P4529218

And everything installed.
 

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#87 ·
Alright so I know its been awhile since I have posted, but progress has been made :2thumbsup:
Motor has been built, painted, Clutch installed, motor mounts in, engine mounted, accessories attached (most of them), exhaust mostly on etc... here are some updated pics more will be coming along as this project moves.

On a side note, I found today when flipping the tub over to undercoat it that 4 of my tubs mounting locations are all rusted,:thumbdown: which means my hope of getting the tub mounted this coming weekend just got shot to heck. YAY another layer to the project.
 

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#91 ·
Started working on my tub body mounts today...now I see why they fall apart its two layers, a super nice place for salt and moisture to get in and fester. Not for long though, didn't have a ton of time but I got one cut out and cleaned up so I can start fabricating after work tomorrow.

On a side note make sure you cut on the out side of the spot welds this will make removal much easier.
 

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#93 ·
So I finished up the body mounts today. I built them out of 3/16, and will be applying Rust Bullet inside the channel and outside to seal it off from the elements. Same process I used when I did my frame. Here are a few pics from today of cutting and welding. After my friend and I got going and I sort of forgot to take pictures. I am glad I chose to make them instead of buying new replacement parts (granted I have the tools to do it) and have to cut the entire channel out. Plus during the build I built those 4 locations to not need the 1/2 lift portion of my 1/2 Rokmen body lift. We'll see how it holds up.
 

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#179 ·
Looks auwfly familiar! Lol. Looks like Jeep's making body mount nut replacement easier on us.
 
#94 ·
Spent the morning and afternoon picking up my tub from where I did the mounts over the past two days. And then it was, wash the bottom and then a few layers of POR15.
I also decided I'm going to coat the entire bottom with the Dupli-color kevlar bed armor. I have been using the stuff for a few years now at work on our bucket trucks and this stuff takes some crazy abuse.



A few months ago now, someone posted up on here about the track bar not looking correct. After further research it is not made for the suspension i have in my jeep. I only have 2 inches of lift and this bar needs min. of 3-6.
So I have a brand new rear JKS track bar I'm not going to be using if anyone needs it.
Now to find one that will fit correctly....
 
#95 ·
IceKnight said:
Spent the morning and afternoon picking up my tub from where I did the mounts over the past two days. And then it was, wash the bottom and then a few layers of POR15.
I also decided I'm going to coat the entire bottom with the Dupli-color kevlar bed armor. I have been using the stuff for a few years now at work on our bucket trucks and this stuff takes some crazy abuse.

A few well months ago now, someone posted up on here about the track bar not looking correct. After further research it is not made for the suspension i have in my jeep. I only have 2 inches of lift and this bar needs min. of 3-6.
So I have a brand new rear JKS track bar I'm not going to be using if anyone needs it.
Now to find one that will fit correctly....
Or you could go for more lift.....

On a serious note, por15 is some amazing stuff. I used to sell it at trade shows when I was working at a body shop. Loved doing the hit the pipe coated with it with a bfh test to show how strong it is. Where I work now we make stainless steel cable for various applications, but the huge spools we used for 1.125" cable kept rusting and no epoxy was holding up to the abuse. I suggested por15, now every single spool has been coated with it for a little over a year and still looks like its freshly coated. Love that stuff.
 
#96 ·
I'm trying to keep things are low as possible, I have highline tube fenders and am going to be cutting my rear corner guards to fit 35''+ on 2-2.5 inches of lift.
I'm shooting to get the tub on the frame come Thursday night but that means Ill have gotten my fuel pump and lines all run and installed which might be pushing things but we'll see what happens.
 
#99 ·
Spent Monday night covering the bottom of the tub with the Duplicolor DuPont Kevlar undercoat, I'm hoping its all cured up when I get home tonight so i can install my tub onto my frame. Its been so humid out that its been taking its sweet time curing.

Anyone know where I can pick up new frame mount clips for the fuel and brake lines? I have been looking everywhere and have come up with nothing.
 

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#100 ·
So this has been an interesting week.
One week ago today I ended up smashing my head at work on a truck frame we are building and got to get 7 staples (just got them pulled today) :2thumbsup:
Because of that haven't really gotten a whole lot done, but this is what i did get finished up.

Starting with the fuel tank.
Cleaned out, New pump, new breather lines and fittings.
I took enough pics for a step by step of swapping the fuel pump.

To make your life easier get as much fuel out of the tank as you can before starting this.

1. Remove bezel. (Sorry no pic of this, I currently don't have one) Drop tank enough to remove the fuel pressure line, vapor line and electrical connector. The pressure line is the one that will most likely put up a fight. You need to depress the two tabs on the blue clip and pull at the same time. Then remove the vapor lines, a pair of pliers will help break the seal the vapor line will most likely have a little twisting motion will go along way. I choose to replace everything seeing as how I already had everything apart.
2. Remove tank skid and gas tank. If your tank straps are in good shape leave them be, if not again this is the time to replace them.
3. You need to remove the metal retaining clip that goes across the top. Flat head screw driver will help with this.
4. Keep that flat head in your hand, you can use it and a small hammer to slowly loosen the retaining ring that hold the fuel pump in the tank.
5. Ta da and out comes the fuel pump.

I found my filter element just kinda floating around in my tank... not really the recommended way to filter fuel.

6. Then pull the seal out of the hole, if it didn't come off already. Your new pump should come with a new one.
7. I took this time to completely clean out my tank, I siphoned the last 3/4 of a gallon of gas out and wipe the inside clean with a few lint free clothes.

If you ever wondered what the inside of you tank looks like...there ya go.

8. Now reverse order. Install gasket, Install pump, making sure the arrows are facing the proper direction. (should be toward the front of the Jeep)
9. Fight with retaining ring to go on.
10. Replace your blue retaining clip and vapor lines
11. Lift tank into position and reconnect fuel pressure and vapor lines and plug in the electrical line.
12. Re-install bezel.
 

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#102 ·
Well its been around two months since I've posted anything about my Jeep... you see about two days after I did the fuel pump and some brake line stuff (that will be up soon) I smashed my head and was lucky enough to get 7 staples in my head. :thumbdown:

I healed up just in time for a trip to Duluth for an AMSOIL meeting. I came home and spent two weeks at work right before my vacation (Las Vegas and surrounding national parks for hiking) and a tire at my work (split rim) blew-up in my face while filling it with air (boss "set up" the rim and tire, he didn't bother to check and make sure the rim and tire size where compatible) and rocketed me across the garage. I was lucky enough to only have a large egg under my chin, extremely sore jaw (it was shifted 3/4 of an inch to the right) and a broken left arm. :rantscream: I finally have enough motion in my arm so I can type. :thumbsup: Kinda funny because just this week I can give a thumbs up with my left hand now.

So back to my Jeep.

I got the brake lines installed before I got the tub on the frame. But because I built the upper control arm mounts I needed to build a small bracket for the brake line from the axle to attach to the brake line on the frame. So here are a few quick shots of that.
 

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#103 ·
That same weekend I also picked up my 4" tail lights, grommets and plugs and put a hole saw to the tub. Rather simple process but something you want to take your time with and not rush. It came out really nice.

Find the center of the hole to be cut. (This was a little easier having the rear guards bolted to the Jeep that had the cutouts in it)
Pre-drill a pilot hole.
Next cut the hole
Deburr the sharp spots
Check light fitment
Paint
Drink beer for doing an awesome job
 

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#180 ·
Whoa, what's up with the grab bar? For the rear-seaters?
 
#181 ·
You forgot staples
 
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