Hi guys im going to be making a build on my xj. I'm in the market right now for a 4 door xj. Hoping to get some subscribers now so when I get it and start the work I can get some input. I built a cj5 last year. Will post a before and after pic. Blew the motor up in the Cj, got pissed off, and decided I wanted a xj. Hoping to have the xj through college as well
Fantastic. My driveshaft is like a half inch to short. And since its for the rear I don't trust myself to shorten it because I don't want vibes. Dammit
X2, get us some more pics once you've fully welded things in. And what welder are you using? Not knocking you, it's nice to see a decent build on JF for once...
Ill get some tonight. I'm not saying my welds are good by any means. I do have concerns with some of them but that's why I'm testing it in the yard and some trails in my woods before I take it on the road. I'm using a Eastwood 135 with gas. Not the best welder. I really need a stick welder. I spent all year using a Lincoln invertec stick welder at school and then I go to mig and have to get re oriented.
That's what I figured. I'm just confused on how to build a mount for uppers. And I guess I'd have to build a axle bridge as well but that ain't no thang
I meant properly setup a radius arm so I just made one and hoped it worked. Could anyone guide me on how to correct my one radius arm so it will hold my axle better?
I know how bad a radius arm setup is on both sides so I'm trying to eliminate the bind by only running 1. And hopefully still be able to drive it on the street
I know how bad a radius arm setup is on both sides so I'm trying to eliminate the bind by only running 1. And hopefully still be able to drive it on the street
I built the mounts with switching joints in mind. I may just get a heim joint for the axle end an leave the rubber bushing on the other end. But with the weight of a 3/4 ton d44 and having radius arms on both sides, the bind will bend control arms and snap mounts off. Seen it happen on a friends tj. That was a Dana 60 but I'm assuming the weight would be around the same. How would the solid joint be beneficial though?
I built the mounts with switching joints in mind. I may just get a heim joint for the axle end an leave the rubber bushing on the other end. But with the weight of a 3/4 ton d44 and having radius arms on both sides, the bind will bend control arms and snap mounts off. Seen it happen on a friends tj. That was a Dana 60 but I'm assuming the weight would be around the same. How would the solid joint be beneficial though?
Well then ditch that setup. Radius arms suck enough, much less a "3 link" radius arm. You're the second person I've ever seen to run that setup. There is a reason no one runs it. Get on pirate and search 3 link. There is gobs of info on there. It's good to see you started a 3/4 ton build, but I think you rushed into it before you knew what you was doing. The last thing you want is to be driving that b!tch and it blows apart and kills someone.
Well then ditch that setup. Radius arms suck enough, much less a "3 link" radius arm. You're the second person I've ever seen to run that setup. There is a reason no one runs it. Get on pirate and search 3 link. There is gobs of info on there. It's good to see you started a 3/4 ton build, but I think you rushed into it before you knew what you was doing. The last thing you want is to be driving that b!tch and it blows apart and kills someone.
My original intent was a tru 3 link until I realiZed how hard it is to find a place for the upper link mount. So I diverted to this. And I read about people with radius arms taking one of the uppers off all the time and saying it works almost as good as a true 3 link so I thought I'd give it a shot. Ill try a solid joint before I ditch it all together. Thanks for your help man
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