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How to remove control arm bushings , easily

25K views 53 replies 23 participants last post by  Jeeples 
#1 ·
How to remove and install control arm bushings , easily

Get loads of ppl wondering how to do this , so , videos are definately a great way to illustrate a seemingly difficult process made easy .

I know you can all find a hammer and a chunk of wood for this process :laugh: . I used a short handled hammer for better acuracy , just "choke-up" on the handle if you have to .

I didn't presoak , or use any penetrants for this process .

http://s347.photobucket.com/albums/p454/onegoodmason/?action=view&current=MOV05125.mp4

I'll post a install video in a few days . It's using the same tools . Got to buy new bushings first , and I may as well paint the arms also . They are going on my 97 Cherokee , but , they are all the same arm on all zj/xj/mjs , maybe even tjs .
 
#3 ·
Newfie, on a 2wd axle end upper arm bushing,best way to get out? I've seen the spx miller tool to do it with but wondered if it actually worked cause it looks kinda flimsy. But then again the bushing mounts on the axle aren't all that beefy looking either.
 
#4 ·
Can someone look up the Tool # ( spx miller tool ) in a shop manual for removing control arm bushing on a 98 5.9 zj front and rear bushings.

Thanks Bob
 
#5 ·
Not that easy.. lol, to remove the axle side of the upper arms the number is 7932. Beyond that its easier to get arms, but cheaper to get bushings. Newfie shows a way to get the bushings out of the arms themselves. As for the spx tool many have crafted their own tool from washers,all thread, some pipe cut with a slot, ect. The 7932 is used just for the axle side upper removal as far as my limited scope knows.
 
#7 ·
Here's the second video . If you thought the removal was easy , this should wow you all together :rofl:
http://s347.photobucket.com/albums/p454/onegoodmason/?action=view&current=MOV05126.mp4

I'll get some still shots with a better pic up later , and show the spot welds , plus a quick snap of the arms on my 5.9 , unwelded 2 years almost with new bushings .

For those who want to remove the rubber from the cup to install poly bushings , I am gonna try the drill method to remove the rubber . It worked for me years ago on a Mustang GT . I'll get a video , if it works , I'll post it in this thread . The re won't be an install video cause I don't use poly CA bushings
 
#15 ·
Did this again today on the white 5.9 . These things are so easy to change . Able to use an impact on 3 outta 4 bolts , marked off caster adjustment , axle shifted slightly but if you install the rear bolt first , you can pry the front between the arm and axle mount to slide the bolt in . Done in under 30 mins start to finish .

As was the case with every ZJ I have owned the front axle bushings were terrible . I spun the sleeve in one separating the rubber , with ease . The other was no better . Seriously , if you have not replaced these 2 bushings in your ZJ , make it next on your list . You will need an alignment to make it perfect .

:cheers2:
 
#19 ·
I'd say poly bushings are easier as you leave the metal sleeve in the arm, so there's no force required. Just burn out the old rubber, clean up the inside of the sleeve (I used a wire brush on a drill), and push the new poly inserts in by hand.

Only don't do what I did, which was to burn out the rubber at one end of the control arm, get distracted, and then try and pick up the arm by the hot end having forgotten to put a glove on first... :(
 
#20 ·
My experience with poly bushings in general : garbage .

Recently bought a XJ . Came with a RE lift . Rear springs had poly bushings . They lasted 3 years and were toasted causing the bolt/sleeve to ride and knock on the shackle .

Poly does not retain shape like a good clevite bushing will . This is bad for anyone who wants to flex off road . In short time , the sleeve ovals out the bushing and creates play . After that it's just a matter of time before it splits . Street use only and they will last longer . However I still don't see this as an upgrade over a new set of solid stock bushings , or even an equal . Claytons , JKS , IRO just to name the top names in the jeep world all use stock bushings in their control arms . Performance and longevity , it doesn't get any better .

As for what's easier , I don't see anything being easier than what was demonstrated on my video . :dunno:
 
#24 ·
Then consider how weak you make those parts by applying heat
If the metal itself was glowing red, then maybe, but it doesn't.

You don't see poly bushings on any stock automobiles because rubber is better
Rubber is *cheaper*, certainly, which is always a major consideration for auto manufacturers, at least as far as mainstream vehicles go. Saving a cent or two per bushing by using rubber rather than poly makes a massive difference to the bottom line. Poly bushings are well accepted in the performance car world as providing sharper, tighter handling than rubber, but that point is arguable as far as hulking great SUVs with solid axles go. For me, the improvement in handling of my ZJ with the poly bushings is noticeable and I like it. Other people's M may V :)
 
#25 ·
If the metal itself was glowing red, then maybe, but it doesn't.

Rubber is *cheaper*, certainly, which is always a major consideration for auto manufacturers, at least as far as mainstream vehicles go. Saving a cent or two per bushing by using rubber rather than poly makes a massive difference to the bottom line. Poly bushings are well accepted in the performance car world as providing sharper, tighter handling than rubber, but that point is arguable as far as hulking great SUVs with solid axles go. For me, the improvement in handling of my ZJ with the poly bushings is noticeable and I like it. Other people's M may V :)
Every website I look at the kits are always cheaper for the poly bushings, rubber ones are $20-$40 more.
 
#29 ·
Haven't touched the back bushings in a while but now recall that would be right , they are slightly (1/4'ish) wider . Sorry , do the fronts all the time , 5 yrs since I did a rear set . Uppers are still all the same

ZJ's have a hollowed bushing on the axle side of the lower control arm both front and rear . The front's take a beating and fail on every ZJ I have seen . And , it's really just these 2 bushings that need replacing to see a substantial improvement in the suspension . The rest usually show typical small cracking but still do their jobs . Try just the front lower bushings before going all in . Then do the sway bar frame bushings frt and rear . You'll swear it rides like new :)
 
#32 ·
You can theoretically do all the arms with the Jeep on the ground. The lower arms are easy but the upper arms might be a PITA to get to without jacking, especially the front axle bushings.

You should *definitely* only have one arm off at a time, to minimise the risk of the axle shifting out of alignment. Even doing one arm at a time you may find that the bolt-holes won't line up again when you put the arm back in, but you can fix that with a ratchet strap or a pry bar or whatever.
 
#35 ·
Save time and learn from my mistakes replacing my front lower control arms on my stock ’97 GC 4WD 4.0L.

I am 6’ 2” 220lbs. I found that jacking the frame up gave me the room I needed to get under to work and see what I was trying to loosen and remove.

I started on the passenger side. I was able to loosen both bolts with a breaker bar. I was not as fortunite with the driver side. I didn’t know that one bushing on the lower control arm was solid and one was semi hollow. I tried to figure out which end was the front and which was the rear by matching the shapes of the arms while under the Jeep with less than ideal lighting. I should have known I got it wrong when I had some difficulty getting the new arm in on the axel side. As Newfie pointed out the hollow bushing goes forward (axle side).

I could not get the front/axle side bolt loose on the driver’s side. I sprayed it with a CRC freeze product, used a breaker bar, elect impact driver and even tried using the breaker bar with the driver’s side wheel off and lowering the jeep trying to use the weight of the jeep to break the bond. I gave up for the weekend and I was going to use heat the following weekend.

Before the weekend I had to be towed due to a failed fuel pump (pump and 2 hours labor $477). I asked the shop to free that bolt for me. He told me it would not move with a 3ft breaker bar. He had to heat it and it popped right off.

When I went to replace the driver’s side I noticed that the axel side had the hollow bushing. After I replaced the driver’s side LCA I went back to the passenger side and flipped the arm so the hollow end was forward.

Next job based on Newfie’s recommendation is replacing the sway bar frame bushings front and rear.

Bill
 
#36 ·
I too just replaced all 8 control arms this weekend. What a pita the front lower arm was, had to grind of the nut because it seized. Luckily I was planning on getting new cam bolts anyway. its amazing what a difference in the ride quality it made, next on my list are the track bar bushings and tre to tighten everything back up.
 
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