Hey guys, quick question. Driving my CJ lately I have noticed a chirping sound coming from my rear passenger wheel at slow speeds. Can't really hear it above about 25 but that doesn't mean it's not there. Braking doesn't change it at all. Would this be a sign of a dry wheel bearing or one getting ready to go out? Thanks in advance! Rob
Alright, just wanted to sum up what I found. I lifted the back end and could wiggle the rear wheel a bit. I took the center cap off and found the castle nut loose. Pulled the pin, snugged it up and then backed it off just a hair. Put the pin back in, took it for a drive and the noise is gone. I came across something else to ask about though. How much free play should the rear driveshaft have? With transmission in gear, I can rotate it about 1/8 turn and get a clunking sound in the transfer case. Is this normal? If not, what is it a sign of. Thanks, Rob
NEVER, EVER back off that nut!:thumbdown:
Tighten to the next slot.:thumbsup:
Do the same on the other side while your at it.
The torque spec for that nut is somedangthing like 240 ft/lbs.
T'case is fine, you just tak'n up all the gear slop.
LG
NEVER, EVER back off that nut!:thumbdown:
Tighten to the next slot.:thumbsup:
Do the same on the other side while your at it.
The torque spec for that nut is somedangthing like 240 ft/lbs.
T'case is fine, you just tak'n up all the gear slop.
LG
I was under the understanding that too tight was bad. I remember doing the front and it needed a certain torque that wasn't very high. So the back is different? I will crank it down some more and I appreciate the heads up. Rob
Front and rear are Apples to Onions by comparison. Your doing nothing to the rear bearing when you tighten that rear axle nut.
The best thing you could do is put in a set of Moser 1 piece axles and get rid of the POS, OEM 2-piece AMC crap.
Another thing you really need to do is buy a Factory Service Manual for your Jeep. This so you don't make those types of mistakes again.:thumbsup:
Lean HARD on the axle nut!
Good luck,
LG
Do as LG said, couple extra pointers - apply the parking brake hard and put the transmission in neutral. With that much torque and if the other wheel is grounded, you can actually turn over the engine through the drivetrain (not damaging or anything, but something you don't want to do nevertheless.) To get satisfactory torque, you'll probably need a section of pipe on the end of a breaker bar for added leverage. Wear eye protection. I broke a 1/2 craftsman breaker at the socket hinge doing this. Sears employee looked at me pretty strange, but gave me a new one anyway.
Sorry, don't agree with the p'brake deal at all.:thumbdown:
Put it in first gear & low-range. Block the wheels(at least 2 of them)and get at it.
Like I said. IIRC, The torque is somedangthing like 250ft/lbs. Don't try this with a 'crescent' wrench, it WILL slip and round the nut. Check your FSM to confirm the torque this :thumbsup:
Do it 'rite'........Get some Moser 1 piece axles and be done with it!
LG
Definitly go with a 3/4 drive breaker bar. Put about a 4' piece of Pipe on it and stand on it with your full weight and jump on it.
Do not loosen the nut to get the kotter pin in. Do What you need to do to get it to the next slot.
Repeat the process after driving it for a few days.
FSM says to tighten it with wheel on, vehicle on the ground, parking brake applied. To do this, you'd have to remove wheel center caps and axle dust shield. Torque is 250 ft/lbs as LG said.
Alright, will do. I'll probably find some muscles that I've forgotten about. I've got a nice stick of rigid conduit in the garage that's just dying to be used. I'll let you know how it goes this evening. Thanks for the heads up. Rob
Do as the FSM sez. :thumbsup:
On the ground and add what I said.
Then save $$$ for those Moser 1 piece axles.
Those AMC 2 piece axles are pure, 110%, CRAP!
X2 on 3/4 drive and a cheater bar.
Use new cotter pins too.
LG
Do as the FSM sez. :thumbsup:
On the ground and add what I said.
Then save $$$ for those Moser 1 piece axles.
Those AMC 2 piece axles are pure, 110%, CRAP!
X2 on 3/4 drive and a cheater bar.
Use new cotter pins too.
LG
YES, the Moser's are the best upgrade you can make to the AMC 20 rear. It's what AMC should have done to begin with.
I have installed many sets for friends and they are worth the $$$.
Save as you can.
All the best,
LG
I agree. I was surprised when i first checked mine. Probably Got a quarter turn out of them.
Each time i retightened mine got me less and less. After about four times, i barely turned it to the next cotter pin hole.
I wheeled it hard With 35s and never spun a hub.
I only upgraded to Mosers when i added a locker.
Your probably right. I finished this up tonight with a strong arm plus 4' cheater bar. I know their tight now. Out of curiosity though, what part would wear enough to cause them to have play? I know the castle nut didn't back off because the pin was there. Is it the bearings wearing? Rob
True enough, but within the design parameters, those axles are okay as long as they're maintained. They were a good solution to an economic and logistical problem for AMC. The engineers did not anticipate our larger wheels and the lockers. No doubt about it though, they're definitely the weak spot.
Rob, has nut'n to do with the axle bearings.
It just a pour design that was pushed by the AMC 'bean counters' at the time.
When you tighten the hub nut, the hub will continue to be pressed onto the wannabe axle splinesthumbdownof the axle till the hub either splits or the hub just spins.
Open up your FSM to the rear axle section, and you will see what a joke that design truly is.
LG
Ok, I get it. She's tight for now and the noise that led me to this point is no longer there. LG, I'll put some one piece axles in the budget for a fall project. Thanks for the help gentleman, Rob
The torque spec on the axle nut is 250 ft. lbs plus whatever it takes the line the cotter pin up with the castellated nut. Do not loosen the nut to line up the cotter pin
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