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What did you do to your ZJ today?

4M views 55K replies 2K participants last post by  98ZJ 
#1 ·
This thread is to serve as an inspiration to others modifying their ZJ's. Pretty simple, just post what you did to your ZJ today!


Today I shamefully took my Jeep to get the oil changed because it was to hot to change it myself.
 
#23,561 ·
This, more than likely. I got away with just adjustable uppers in the rear. the rest of mine are fixed and my pinion angles are good and I have no vibes. I did before I swapped the rears for adjustables though.

Are you saying I can get away with just the Volvo relay and the BMW switch along with my fan? I gathered from your posts that I'd also need that DC controller. The DC controller is $100 I don't want to spend.
will need a 36mm water temp adapter to splice into your upper radiator hose and fasten the BMW Thermoswitch. The Thermoswitch sends a signal to the Volvo relay (low @ 195 degrees, high @ 205 degrees) and the volvo relay sends power to the fan according to the thermoswitch signal. The Volvo relay has 5 wires: Power, High speed signal, low speed signal, high speed power output, low speed power output. real simple budget system.
I ran a 40a inline fuse holder from the positive battery to a 40a relay prior to the volvo relay so the fan will only run while the key is turned on.
Let me know if you have any questions. besides the taurus fan I spent:
$8-10 for the volvo relay & bmw thermoswitch harness/pigtail
$22 for the brand new bmw thermoswitch
$10 for the water temp adapter from ebay (36mm for the 5.2 v8)
$5 for a 40a 5 pin relay
$3 for a 40a inline fuse holder.
All automatic in a compact setup.
180 tstat, low kicks on @ 195, high @ 205.
Sounds a lot more complicated than it actually is. But check out the attached threads I posted on my thread.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/taurus-e-fan-using-volvo-2spd-relay-1526807/
 

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#23,563 ·
Man... looks like I have some research to do before I go ahead and get my fan installed. I ordered the relays/solenoids needed wire it up too. What year/model Volvo and BMW are these from?
Indeed!
it really is a solid setup and didn't cost an arm & leg. read through the threads I posted in my thread.
they have model #'s and all the vital info. Walking through the junkyard... if the volvo has an electric fan, it has the relay. look behind the passenger side headlight. mostly the 740's and 740 wagons too. Any bmw thermoswitch pigtail/plug harness will work. The thermoswitch part # is listed on the threads as well :cheers2:

Do your research and feel free to ask any questions along the way :cheers2:
good luck man
 
#23,564 ·
Indeed!
it really is a solid setup and didn't cost an arm & leg. read through the threads I posted in my thread.
they have model #'s and all the vital info. Walking through the junkyard... if the volvo has an electric fan, it has the relay. look behind the passenger side headlight. mostly the 740's and 740 wagons too. Any bmw thermoswitch pigtail/plug harness will work. The thermoswitch part # is listed on the threads as well :cheers2:

Do your research and feel free to ask any questions along the way :cheers2:
good luck man
Thanks!
 
#23,568 ·
New OE replacement headlights. No more ugly yellow

 
#23,575 ·
Resoldered my headlight switch and GDM, touched up contacts in the VIC I have while I was at it. Seriously thinking about hacking this VIC in for cool factor. I have an Arduino Uno and it's super easy to write a program to make it mock up a 5V signal on up to 13 pins, plus a few analog outputs if necessary. I think I only need the coolant, washer fluid, and rear lamp sensor signals, so it should be super simple to get those up and running on the uno. If that's the case, I'll just have to get a head unit with a rear USB port and use that to power the uno, so I can have some fun VIC stuff.

That said, I don't know if it'll work without some other wiring stuff. Connectors are the same, but they appear to have different wires in them, according to a diagram I found.
 
#23,576 ·
*Fixed the HVAC blower motor.
*Fixed the door closed sensor on the right rear door.
*Fixed the alarm.
Was your door closed sensor not showing open or closed?

Resoldered my headlight switch and GDM, touched up contacts in the VIC I have while I was at it. Seriously thinking about hacking this VIC in for cool factor. I have an Arduino Uno and it's super easy to write a program to make it mock up a 5V signal on up to 13 pins, plus a few analog outputs if necessary. I think I only need the coolant, washer fluid, and rear lamp sensor signals, so it should be super simple to get those up and running on the uno. If that's the case, I'll just have to get a head unit with a rear USB port and use that to power the uno, so I can have some fun VIC stuff.

That said, I don't know if it'll work without some other wiring stuff. Connectors are the same, but they appear to have different wires in them, according to a diagram I found.
Now, I like that idea. Great use for my UNO too. You could just pull 12v from a switched source and destroy a 12v->USB adapter to get the +5V to run it.
 
#23,577 ·
It was showing open and wouldn't register closed which in turn kept my alarm from arming ever. I just swapped the right rear with the right front and works just fine. My other option was to just disconnect it since if the connector isn't sensing a ground it just registers as always closed.
 
#23,578 ·
It was showing open and wouldn't register closed which in turn kept my alarm from arming ever. I just swapped the right rear with the right front and works just fine. My other option was to just disconnect it since if the connector isn't sensing a ground it just registers as always closed.
My drivers side ones work about 1 time out of 10.....i.e. they show open almost never.
 
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