I live in Mesa az and it gets really hot here. My radiator has a bad leak and I was wondering what the best radiator I could get for cooling my jeep better. Thanks
I don't want to spend over 300. So probably just going to go with the OEM and so a fan upgradebiffgnar said:The best? What's your budget?
Electric fans maybe. What do you prefer?biffgnar said:What fan "upgrade"?
Thanksroosr said:Poison Spider hood vent installation would help greatly, especially if you have (or are planning on getting) a winch. I have a friend that has one on her JK and it does wonders. I'm getting one for mine since I have stock radiator, stock cooling, stinger, and winch and at highway speed, I get zero cooling through the radiator. It's an airdam with the winch but I've seen with the hood vent plate installed (cut holes in hood and install plate from Poison Spider), it DOES lower temps because it gives more airflow.
Just my $0.02...
I run hot idling like 220 to 230biffgnar said:Stock TJ mechanical fan
If you have no air flow through your radiator, you have bigger problems.As for the fan clutch, if there is no airflow through the radiator, it'll be running at a higher temp & radiating the heat which engages the fan clutch. So the under hood temps do have an effect. Absolutely no way that the under hood temps CAN'T have a factor because it's heat that engages the clutch to run the fan.
The ATF cooling/heating takes place in the lower radiator tank. All the fins in both radiators cool the engine coolant. The OEM radiator for an automatic transmission equipped TJ fits and cools the same for a TJ with a manual transmission...Dealers still have separate PN# for manual vs automatic. Not just one size fits all.
Radiator for manuals has no ATF cooling tank on the bottom. 100% of cooling fins work on coolant.
Totally agree!Hood louvers will lower under hood temps a lot, but if you are looking for them to change engine operating temps you have other problems.......
If both are OEM radiators, they are the same. IIRCBut I'm also curious to see if cooling fin area on an auto radiator is same as on a manual radiator.
Nope, that's one of the reasons why the automatic transmission fluid is plumbed through the lower radiator tank.even if its an auto, if your ATF fluid is hotter than your coolant, you have other issues
IIRC it can be closer to 60 degrees.i've never gauged it, but how cool do you think the return coolant is? i doubt you'd see more than a 30 deg delta, just a guestimation, so we are talking around 180
Did you mean "2 or 3 row"?...If you replace an OEM radiator with a Copper/Brass unit, even one labelled 2-tube or 3-tube, you will lose cooling capacity versus the OEM aluminum core.
Just giving actual usable advice to people reading this thread. Telling people to look for OEM radiators for $100 is like telling them to go find the 7 blade TSB fan.You get your jollies trying to bully people online? Simply pathetic.
Do they have any more for that price? Can you post a link for me, been anxious to get a new one and that is a excellent price for OEM.lunchbox704 said:I went with the OEM PART and installed it myself. Spent about $100 and took about an hour. Better than the $500 I was quoted. :cheers2:
PS, mine had an ATF cooling tank but I just ignored that.
But it never got that high before the winch. i was idling in 103 degree heat today and the temps didn't go above 220.Jerry Bransford said:Your cooling system simply has a problem that has made it marginal. By itself, a winch won't cause an engine to run hotter. Those of us with winches & properly functioning cooling system don't see hotter engine temps at all.