Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Rear Bumper w/Swingout Tire Carrier Follow Along

1M views 2K replies 530 participants last post by  boomvader 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been making bumpers for awhile and the biggest question I get is, "When are you going to make a Rear Swingout?!" Well, I finally got most of the parts together and figured I would start today. I thought I'd post along the way with updates as the project progresses. I hope to be done by this weekend. I will post a list of the tools I used (and hopefully substitutions you can use). I will also post a list of materials I used and any useful links that might help to locate parts. Hope this thread helps someone else as Tire Carriers seem to be a pretty popular fabrication topic.

First, a word about shop safety... ya only got one pair of eyes so use the safety glasses/face shield (especially when grinding, drilling.. etc)! Also, when using loud machines (like the grinder) where ear muffs or ear plugs. Lastly, use gloves to save your hands (drilling/grinding).

Tools used:
Plasma Cutter (suppose a chop saw and jig saw could substitute but you'll be cutting for a long time).
Welder (220v wire feed nice but a stick will do)
Grinder (I use both a 7" and a 4 1/2")
Band Saw (chop saw can be used)
Drill Press (hand drill can be used)
2 1/4" bi-metal hole saw
long 1/4" drill bit
1/2" drill bit
11/16" drill bit
1" drill bit (big sucker for the clevis mount holes.. it's a PITA to do!)
Scribe
Center Punch
Tape Measure
Machinist Square
Hammer
Slag Hammer
Phosphoric Acid to clean/etch the steel (Lowe's)

Materials Used: for basic bumper...
2"x4"x1/4" wall rectangular stock 55" long (can sub thinner material if you like but I like it beefy!)
approx 7" length of 2 1/2"x2 1/2"x1/4" wall stock for receiver (can sub a store bought receiver tube.. Northern has one for like $10)
approx 7" of 2 1/2"x1/4" thick flat stock for chain plate
approx 6" length of 3"x1/4" wall square stock (for mounting legs and receiver lip)
approx 18" of 3"x3/8" thick flat stock cut in half for the bumper mounting flanges
approx 18" of 2"x1/4" thick flat stock for bumper end caps
approx one foot of 2"x3/4" thick flat stock for clevis mounts

Materials for the Swingout
2 1/2"x1/4" wall DOM Tubing (from here.. DOM Tubing)
2"OD pipe for the inner sleeve/bearing spacer(Lowe's)
1" trailer spindle rated for 1000lbs (Spindle)
Spindle Bearing Kit (Spindle Bearing )
De Sta Co 2000lb Latch (Latch
2"x3/16" wall square stock for carrier frame

That's as far as I got today with the materials list. I got most of the cutting and drilling done... here are the pics..

First, I cut the pivot tube from the 2 1/2" DOM tube.. 4 1/4" long. Then I cut an inner bearing separator from 2" OD pipe and rosette welded it in 4 places to hole it in place..

You can see the tube in the center with the sleeve in it. The rest of the stuff is the bearing kit and of course.. the 1" spindle.

Rosette welded sleeve

Sleeve with races in it

Assembled Swingout Pivot

Bumper Blank with 1 1/4" hole cut (top and bottom) for spindle... I'm tippy toeing to take the picture.. :D

Pivot test fitted to bumper.. I did this before making any other cuts on the bumper so that if I ruined it, it would be before I went through the trouble of making all the other cuts.

Drilling the 7" long 2 1/2"x1/4" wall square receiver tube for the pin.. I use a long 1/4" bit to go all the way thru both sides of the tube. That way the holes line up...

I then follow up with a 11/16" bit.

EDIT: Instead of making your own receiver tube, it's probably just as cheap and definately easier to buy one from a trailer supply store... Northern sells 6" long weld-in receiver tubes for about $11
 
See less See more
9
#1,948 ·
Way over due pictures of My bumpers from Eddie!

Eddie,

I owe you an apology, because I waited so long to post my pictures. The truth is i got busy with life and haven't had a chance to post.

As a testimony to Eddie's bumpers, everything fit like a glove! Couldn't ask for a better fit or better durability. These are HEAVY and I wouldn't be afraid to hit a brick wall with these.:brickwall

The only change I would make is that I would have them powder coated instead of painting them. Maybe in the fall, I'll pull them and have them blasted and powder coated.... Maybe..lol

Lastly, Eddie made me a skid plate for the steering box, but it hasn't made it's way on the Jeep yet, nor have the Rotopax holder, nor the Hi-Lift jack holders, but these two are because I haven't bought the rotopax can or the jack.













 
#1,950 ·
Hey Eddie,
This is my first post since joining and finally made my way through all 130 pages. Your rear bumper and swing out has inspired me, now I have 20 feet of 2x4 tubing in the shop. You do great work. I was also impressed with the rear disc brackets I got feom you a few weeks ago.
 
#1,951 ·
Thanks Joe! Glad you liked the brackets.

I've been working on doing a rear disk conversion for my own CJ. I used the "late CJ" D30 front rotors on my Scout D44 rear. Made my own caliper brackets and used Cadillac El Dorado Calipers.

I'm waiting for a couple of brake fitting adapters to come in so I can swap in the 68 Corvette Master Cylinder that's been sitting on the kitchen counter. Hope to have the brakes working sometime in the next week.
 
#1,954 ·
I'm going the same basic route on my 9". I am using rotors from a Dodge pickup (forget what year, but read about it on here or P4x4 somewhere) and the brake brackets and calipers from a Chevy 10b (replaced with older calipers for standard thread brake lines). I'm just cutting a notch out of the plate, putting around the tube, and then welding it back together and to tube with correct spacing. I'm sure it'd be easy enough to so the same with a D44 tube. Of course, Caddy calipers if you want parking brakes. Total cost: free (with 10b I had already picked up cheap for knuckles and stub shafts in D44 build) plus consumables.

Sorry to continue off topic, but thought I could add to the discussion.

However, Eddie, I have a file for brake brackets I'd previously made if you want it as a easy start point. :)
 
#1,955 ·
However, Eddie, I have a file for brake brackets I'd previously made if you want it as a easy start point. :)
I am trying to figure out the easiest way to share files in the CJ thread. I am not sure, but I think dxf's and dwg's are not files that are "postable". I wonder if there is a way to fix that?

I too have a bunch of files that are "CJ" worthy. The website plasmaspider.com is able to share those types but they are on vBulliten software.

Any ideas?

WSS
 
#1,959 ·
Okay.. Philip made it happen.

We can now share CAD Files in the following formats:

.pdf
.dxf
.dwg
.ipt

I stuck a thread for file sharing here in the Fab Forum. :thumbsup:
I always thought he was alright, no matter what others say LOL.

Thanks Philip!
 
#1,960 · (Edited)
I have started building my Besrk inspired rear bumper and have been doing it in LibreCad (formally QCad but they went pay so I decided to get a newer one but I digress).
I have been reading this thread but am only halfway through. EDIT: Just finished reading the whole thing.
The questions I have are the following (if the answers are in the thread I apologize):
1. I am planning on putting the corner protectors on. From pictures I have seen it looks like they are 2x2 but that seems big. Anyone have better pictures with actual measurements? EDIT: Post # 1507 has a great picture so nevermind.
2. I prefer the original method of mounting the bumper to the crossmember (3x3 with a 3x9x3/8" plate). I have a 98 what is the optimum measurement for the distances between the outer and inner bolt holes as I will have to be drilling mine. Basically I assume it will be a 9" plate the question is what the distance from the outer edge of the plate to the inside?
3. For the plate mentioned in question #2, it was originally 3/8" thick. Has anyone found that thicker is better? And if so how much? Edit: Found in post 1161 that 1/2" was being used.
4. I have no intention of mounting anything to the swingaway other than the tire, what would be the optimum distance should the inner side of the bumper be from the crossmember? At the beginning of the thread it looks to be 3 3/8". (I think this is a subjective question especially with different latching options which I am going with the way Besrk is downing now but I guess that could be determined by getting off my butt and measuring).
5. On a side note, I bought the AtoZ mega spindle. Any suggestions on how to press in the races and how far in they need to go? I guess I should probably ask Zach.

Any suggestions comments would be great. I am still reading through and am at the point that I need this info to continue on.
Also I am more than willing to copy up the dxf file once I have it somewhat done if any one is interested (Eddie, I doubt you have issues with this but if you do PM me.)
Thanks!!
 
#1,961 ·
The 97-earlier Wranglers (TJs and YJs) rear mounting bolt pattern is 1.125" x 7.800" (c2c of the bolt holes)

I use 1/2" thick mounting plates and 2" spacer tubes (the 3" square tube). So.. about 2.5" from back of bumper to the rear crossmember.

Your bearing races should press in and hit a hard stop. If they're just pressed into a piece of tube, they'll slide around under load. You either need to machine a tube (on a lathe) or press a spacer tube inside another tube.. and weld it in place... something has to keep the races apart.:thumbsup:

Great that you're willing to share the DXF. You know, we have a thread for sharing DXFs here in the Fab Forum.. or feel free to post it in this thread..:thumbsup:
 
#1,964 ·
The 98 uses the same outer bolt spacing as the earlier Wranglers.. the bolt holes are 1.125" on center (vertically). I'd bolt the mounts in place on the crossmember, drill the inner holes, tack bumper in place, remove and weld.

I make my current tire plates from 3/8" thick material.
 
#1,967 ·
Hey Eddie, slightly OT, but what plasma cutter do you use? What would you consider the absolute cheapest reasonable cutter for home garage hand=guided use? I'm looking at the ones in the $400-$500 range. Thanks,
Dave
 
#1,968 ·
Hey Dave! Hope things are going well down south!

I've got a Hypertherm Powermax 1250. It's an 80amp cutter. Think I paid about $3200 for it 5yrs ago or so. Prior to that, I had a Powermax 1000 (60amp). Both are awesome cutters!

The only other brand of plasma cutter I've owned was a Lincoln. I picked up one of their little ones.. I think it was called a Procut 25 or something like that. Couldn't "drag cut" with it out of the box.. and it struggled on anything thicker than 1/4".

I haven't really had any personal experience with any of the other cheaper plasma cutters.. like the ones at Northern, HF..etc.

If I had to start all over from scratch.. on a budget, I'd beg, borrow, trade, max-out-a-card, etc... to get a Hypertherm. At least a Powermax 45. While the cost is more than the price you mentioned, I think you really "get what you pay for" with regards to plasma cutters (and most tools in general).
 
#1,969 ·
tdkask said:
Hey Eddie, slightly OT, but what plasma cutter do you use? What would you consider the absolute cheapest reasonable cutter for home garage hand=guided use? I'm looking at the ones in the $400-$500 range. Thanks,
Dave
I have used a friends cheap tig/arc/plasma, he paid $500 for it and the plasma worked great, hes been using it for a few years now with no issues
 
#1,970 ·
Just an FYI if you get the A2Z Mega spindle the bottom hole is 1.5" and the top is 1.25". Doh.
I had cut them both the same assuming the outer tube would sit lower once the races were in. After I did that (used a 36mm socket and some light tapping with a hammer to seat them (btw the 36mm is the same size as the axle nut)), I realized if I was to weld it in the outer tube would be about 1/2 too high. Once I patched it and redrilled a smaller hole it was perfect.
.
Here is a rough dxf file. If you need cad software to open it I recommend Librecad. I will still be updating it as I go.
 
#1,971 ·
DOH
I just realized I ordered the 331-R and Eddie was using the 341-R. Being in Canuckistan it is a pain in the butt getting them up here. Should I order the 341 and suck up the cost of the 331? Or do you think it is safe to use the 331? The 331 is rated for 700lbs and the only thing on the swingaway is a 33" tire.
 
#1,973 ·
Eddie,

Thanks again for making such a quality product. I put my bumper on in the middle of last October, and not a peep out of this thing. I jut got back from running the Rubicon, both ways, with a 35 on the swingout...and not a single rattle.

This thing is AWESOME!!:highfive:
 
#1,976 ·
So I got it on and have the latch welded on. However that didn't necessarily turn out how I would have liked. When bringing the latch in it hits up against the bumper unless you have it at one exact spot. Other thing is the hook is a tad high so there is some interference with the latch so you have to kind of lift that end up to get it over the hook. Hard to explain.
I am wondering if I get a washer and put it under the bottom bearing to raise it up a bit if that would help. The seal may do that as well but I doubt that.

On a side note, I have frame tie ins which I got from A2Z a while back. Do I really need to do the ones that bolt to the underneath of the frame? Reason I ask is I would have to find someone who has a bender to get them to work as the bottom of the bumper is about a 1/4" lower than the frame.

Alternatively I could always cut off the bracket where it attaches to the 3x3 square tube and reweld. Not sure if this is a good idea now but thinking I may do that.

So lessons learned (IOW don't do what I did):
1. When attaching the bumper to the frame bracketry make sure the bottom of the bumper lines up with the bottom of the frame.
2. Make sure the latch has no interference with the bumper when closing before doing final welds
3. center the latch before doing the welds. I thought I had but I guess not.
 
#1,977 ·
The bottom edge of my bumpers sit above the bottom edge of the frame. I just put a "Z" bend in the mounting tab that goes from the bottom of the bumper to the frame. Before I had a pressbrake, I used to do the bend with a vise and a hammer.

With regards to positioning that "hook" for the latch...
I bolt the latch in place on the end of the arm. I then clamp the 2"x2" square tube "tower" to the backside of the end of the arm. I hold the latch hook in place and slip the latch's "Ubolt" over it. I then tack the hook in place on the tower. That ensures a good fit between the hook and the ubolt.

My latch mounting plates are also slightly raised in relation to the end of the arm. This helps the latch's Ubolt clear the bumper..
 

Attachments

#1,983 ·
The bottom edge of my bumpers sit above the bottom edge of the frame. I just put a "Z" bend in the mounting tab that goes from the bottom of the bumper to the frame. Before I had a pressbrake, I used to do the bend with a vise and a hammer.

With regards to positioning that "hook" for the latch...
I bolt the latch in place on the end of the arm. I then clamp the 2"x2" square tube "tower" to the backside of the end of the arm. I hold the latch hook in place and slip the latch's "Ubolt" over it. I then tack the hook in place on the tower. That ensures a good fit between the hook and the ubolt.

My latch mounting plates are also slightly raised in relation to the end of the arm. This helps the latch's Ubolt clear the bumper..
Decided I can't live with it. I have started taking off the latch and hook. The hook is off already. Need to grind down the remnants and clean up the hook. I should be able to do the same thing with the latch. Out of curiousity what thickness is the steel you used for the extension the latch is attached to? It looks like at least 3/16th
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top