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MoC's Build Thread

286K views 2K replies 120 participants last post by  Jim1611 
#1 ·
Hey guys, over the next 3 weeks I am planning on rebuilding T176 tranny, replacing tcase seals, replacing u joints, replacing clutch and clutch hardware. This will be my first tranny rebuilt attempt and from what I have read here I think it is defiantly do able on my end. Also planning on painting tcase and tranny, drive shafts, and frame & tub area from engine back to gas tank. Using the Novak rebuilt kit. So its going to be a little project. So my first question is for the guys that have rebuilt the t176 how long did it you to just do the rebuilt from start to finish?

I will post pictures from start to finish along the way.
 
#1,811 ·
My grandfather was a B29 pilot in WW2. He wasn't a big fan of the Japanese. He also opened a GMC/Pontiac/Buick dealership right after the war, and ran it until he retired in 1991. I grew up next door to them.

In 1988 Dad bought our first Honda. My grandfather was not happy about it. He owned a car dealership, and to boot, we bought something made in Japan.

The thing is, we'd ALWAYS had GM vehicles, and they were ALWAYS in the shop. With the family owning the dealership, it wasn't like repairs were mega expensive, but it finally got to the point where Dad just wanted a car that DIDN'T HAVE CONSTANT ISSUES. The Buicks and GMC's always ran fine, but you had leaks, sagging doors, electrical gremlins galore, just little irritating things but it was ALL THE TIME, so he got fed up with it and bought a Honda for my sister. She was going off to college the next year, 9 hours away, and he just got to the point where he didn't trust American made vehicles.

We've had 13 Accords or Civics since 1988. The only one that's ever needed any work other than scheduled maint is my 93 that I sold a couple of years ago with 360K on it, and it's still running strong. I had to replace the radiator, clutch slave cylinder, and fuel injection relay all at about 300K. No window motors going out, no fuel gauges that stop working, no leaking windows, no oil leaks, no backup lights or taillights that quit working. Change the oil, put gas in it, rotate the tires, and drive.

The last GM vehicle we had leaked water the first time it rained, window motor went out, AC lost its charge, and fuel gauge all crapped out, within A MONTH of driving it off the lot new. Think I'll pass on that, thanks anyway.
Oh, and that 93 was made in Ohio.

I don't even look at American made cars anymore, other than CJ's, and lets face it, none of us drive CJ's because they're dependable, they're a hassle to keep on the road, but we irrationally love them.

Yeah, I know domestics have gotten better since the 80's, and I know that as Toyota and Honda have gotten bigger, they might have slipped a bit, but until Honda gets the attitude that the Union controlled domestics had for so long of "yeah, we know it's junk, but you'll buy it anyway or you are unAmerican!", I'll keep buying Hondas (or Yotas if I want a truck)
 
#1,812 ·
I do not want to hijack this thread or start a stink war.

These are my last comments in your thread on this topic.

1) People need to realize that American auto builders have moved out of the 70's and 80's when they produced junk. They now produce equipment that is better than the foreign stuff, but have not won back the buying public, yet.

2) The profit from foreign vehicles goes overseas, hurts the balance of payments. That means foreign vehicles built here still sends the money overseas. If US vehicles were purchased instead of foreign vehicle the jobs to build the US vehicles would be at US builder plants, not at plats for foreign vehicles here in the US.

The point I make here is the same number of jobs are created, either building foreign vehicle in US plants or US vehicles in US plants.

3) Yes, US vehicles are built in mexico and elsewhere, and I hate it, and parts are built elsewhere, but the profit from the sale of the vehicle , which is the biggest component of the sale, says here. The trend lately is they are coming back (Camaro). American manufactures are beginning to wake up and realize that cheap labor got them into trouble, and that skilled labor is worth the extra dollar.

158,000 miles on my f350 , no fixes other than warranty issues. Personally I think now a days the vehicles are all pretty much equal in quality.

Once again I apologize for hijacking your great thread.
 

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#1,815 ·
Sorry for the clutter on your thread Moc. The Sequoia looks sweet! Bet you're getting some vicious MPG on it though. Gotta love it when your 360 equipped Jeep will get better MPG than the wife's rig!
 
#1,823 ·
Going to put a little effort in to the jeep tomorrow. I am still fighting the front end issue. Last weekend I check air pressure and gave everything the eyeball and some pulls.



Locked and loaded now. Heading to a tire shop in the morning and I am going to try some air soft pellets.. Plan is to start at 10oz and go from there.
 
#1,824 ·
Somebody starts a debate on your thread MoC that could have turned political and I wasn't here!!! Man I missed out. If I were to buy a brand new rig no way would it come from obama motors or the red headed stepchild brother Chrysler. I'd get one of those Toyota FJ Cruisers :thumbsup: Okay, sorry for my scandalous attempt to highjack your thread and and cause trouble. :D I can't help it anymore, MoC:laugh:
 
#1,826 ·
Back from Meineke. I am a little dumb as well. I thought the tires were bias but... turns out they are radials. First off, the air soft pellets did work well. Started off by pulling the weights and dropping in 10 oz of air soft pellets. With 10 oz the machine said it was still 7 oz out of balance to one side. Went back to the weights. Three tires balanced out perfect with a good amount of weight. The fourth tire, front pas, has a problem. Without any weights the machine calls for 30oz. Tried spinning the tire 180 on the rim and same result. Looks like I have a broken belt. Moved it to the rear. Drives great now, I hit 65 without any front end wobble. I can feel the bad tire a little in the rear, but it now drives better than it ever has. I use to start feeling a slight wobble around 60ish.

While it was on the rack with the tires off I did find some more problems. Fix on find 2 more. grr. One of my front hubs is not engaging and I have a rear outer axle seal seeping. I did stick the bad tire on the bad seal side of it so I didn't mess up the good one. I guess I will be buying a new tire and rim in the future. I need a spare so the bad one will still have some purpose.
 
#1,827 ·
A several years ago I bought Pro Comp XTerrain tires. I could never keep them balanced and they took a lot of weight to balance. Last year I took it to the Ford dealer they have a road force balancer and told me the tires were defective. I guess the belts/cords were separating. I have since replaced them with BFG all terrains. The truck is now smooth going down the highway.
 
#1,828 ·
I didn't think you could balance a tire if it had dynamic weight inside. I don't picture the tire spinning long enough for the internal stiff to settle out.
 
#1,829 ·
Cutlass327 said:
I didn't think you could balance a tire if it had dynamic weight inside. I don't picture the tire spinning long enough for the internal stiff to settle out.
I dont know.. He spun the tire up by hand then turned the balancer on. t spun around 15-20 seconds at high speed. I would imagine the bb's would have distributed out by then.
 
#1,836 ·
You happy with the beads? Got my 31" BFG AT's moved over to some OEM chrome wagons this morning. Couple of them have 5-6 wheel weights on the outer rim. Kinda BLAH after all the work I did cleaning up that chrome!
 
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#1,832 ·
Apparently my crap azz mechanic nicked the power steering hi pressure line when doing the 360 installed. I actually saw it when it happened but was thinking it was so small no way it would leak. Well turns out it started leaking. Replaced it today, cursing myself the whole time with how much easier it would have been to do a few months ago when the engine was out. Going to take a home work break this weekend and put a few more hours in to the jeep on Sunday re torquing everything from the engine swap and few other small things.
I can relate. I nicked the power line going to my shop with my hedge trimmers a couple weeks ago. 1/2 the power in my shop doesnt' work now.

I said the same thing..."that little nick didn't hurt anything"

5 seconds of not paying attention's gonna cost me a couple of hours or running a new line from junction box to breaker box.
 
#1,830 ·
Re torqued everything for the first time since my engine swap today. Cut off the pipe hangers that the muffler shop welded to my frame the first go around & trimmed up the skid "neater" where they had to cut it for the pipes. Got the areas primed and painted.

Gave her a good washing and did a little driving. Running great still







 
#1,834 ·
MoC, I PM'd you about lockouts, do you have any?
 
#1,838 ·
I'll check, but don't think they are. What is the significance of weights 180 deg from one another?
 
#1,841 ·
Parking the 86 for a short while. My oil pressure has been low after the 360 install. Once it has really really warmed up I was getting around 8-9 psi at idle. After driving around in the heat at 55mph today it started reading down to 6.5 - 7 psi. Ordered a pump rebuild kit and mid plate from BJ's today, hoping it does the trick. We leave on vacation in 13 days for 2 weeks to Colorado and I might not have time to get it done till I return.
 
#1,843 ·
OrangeCJ-5 said:
Has it dropped a lot from the initial start up? How does the oil look?
Oil looks fine. The cover was worn when it went back together and I was worried about it then. I should have replaced it then. It's has not dropped more that around 2 psi.

Hoping the mid plate will do the trick.
 
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