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150K views 1K replies 59 participants last post by  brokenyoujoint 
#1 ·
Going to start in Index here, so if anyone is looking for anything it'll be easier to find.

Index:

Outboard Rear Shocks = Post #16
Start of the Ford 8.8 Swap = Post #32
LED Tail light wiring info = Post #204
Ford Windstar Cowl Intake Mod = Post #230
Ford front shock towers = Post #282
Removing the Charcoal Canister = Post #308
Trimming Rear Flares = Post #574
Start of Cage Design & Install = Post #1081
RCI 2162 Install in a Late Model TJ = Post #1292

I started this build thread over on IndyORV, but things have been slow & boring here at work & I'm always lurking the build threads here, so I figure I'd start one here to, what the hell right?

I bought this '03 Sport Easter weekend 2011. It was bone stock except for a 4" RC suspension lift. Here she is in the dealer parking lot the day I got it.


It came with the hardtop obviously & one of those half top tonneau cover thingys that I dislike & could not use because of kids & needing the back seat, so first purchase was a Supertop NX. Then some misc stuff like a new passenger door seal & the correct speedo gear.

Here's a list of upgrades so far in chronological order:

Supertop NX
Smitty SRC Classic Front bumper, plan to turn this into a stubby someday
XRC-8 Winch
CB Radio Uniden Pro510XL with 4' Firestik
Skid Row Engine Skid & Steering Box skid
B&M Tranny Cooler
Poison spider Hood Louver
Savvy/Currie Front Lower & Rear Upper Control Arms
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Riddler Cover for the D30
Aussie Locker for the D30
Rugged Ridge Mirrors
ZJ tie rod upgrade & replaced drag link because it was bent
Currie 4" progressives in the front with a 3/4" spacer
Currie Adjustable front track bar (CE-9120TJJ)
Installed a stock pitman arm. PO had a drop on it. :nono:
JB Conversions SYE with cut down XJ shaft
RE Adjustable rear track bar with JKS CV bracket
T&T Custom rear cross member with 2" receiver. Still need to get this one on, my welder is busy with some **** called a "pumpkinator" :dunno:
Novak shifter cable
Rokmen Mercenary sliders with no tube, I think I'm the only one...

That's what's done so far & this is how she sat a month ago. The Novak & Rokmen's are going ont his weekend.


One of my better wheeling picks. Red trail at The Badlands. My passenger mirror fell victim to that tree that day.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


I've also removed the rear tire carrier & DD without a spare. It gets loaded into the tub when we hit the trail. I'm working on a rack to go above it to mount tools & spares. Something that will resemble this.


Next big project on the list is a Ford 8.8. I picked up one from a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer with 3.73 gears to match the front, & limited slip, but I just got a good deal on a set of 4.88 for the D30, so it will get re-geared to match before it goes in. I was also going to 4-link it, but am putting that on hold due to cash flow & I also want to challenge myself a little so I can learn more about line selection, how the Jeep handles, etc. So, we're going with stock bracket kit & I will move the upper frame coil buckets back when we install the 8.8 to get rid of a the arch.

I also have plans to tummy tuck a little. Originally was going to go with UCF UHC skid, but just picked up a 2'x4' piece of 1/4" plate from work, for free. :thumbsup: I probably won't go completely flat, but plan on getting the UCF Lo-pro & going as flat as easily possible for now & go from there.

There you have it. I'll try to update with Novak & Slider install this weekend.
 
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#823 ·
yellow_snocone said:
I had my DW pop back up after doing a BL and MML as well. It ended up being my tackbar frame side mount. I dont know how they ran into each other but it happened no the less.
What exactly was the issue with the mount? I'm running the currie HD track bar with the big *** bolt that had to have the mount drilled out. It's "blow out your butthole" tight.
 
#829 ·
boilerup1998 said:
Highly doubt it, but you've been through about everything else. Might as well check!
Lower arms & tie rod ends (which are almost new currie) are the only things I haven't really checked. I felt them when I did the ball joints this weekend, but not sure how to tell if they are starting to go. I'm meeting Connor Wednesday to get another set of eyes on everything before MI on Saturday. So hopefully I'll drive home wobble free Wednesday night!
 
#831 ·
Welp, turns out I was wrong. The pesky culprit was tire imbalance. It sure didn't feel like it, but I guess I've never had it that severe. It's 98% better. No wobble at all up to 60mph. There is a VERY slight wobble when I hit some bumps in the road, but it dissipates very quickly & if I'm not trying to feel it, I probably wouldn't notice it. I call that a win! :highfive: I'm still boggled as to how doing a tummy tuck, BL & MML. would cause my tires to become so imbalanced. :dunno:

Got my new spare mounted last night & the other four tires balanced. Told them to get them as close to zero as possible & put the two best ones on the front. I also explained my situation about the warranty tire to the sales rep & he sold me their warranty on all five tires. So if I rip a sidewall completely off this weekend, I get a free replacement. :2thumbsup:

After I got home last night I put together what I am calling my "INDOT tire bar". I used a piece of a speed limit sign pole that fell down in front of my house a few years back. There is a hole in the top of each rear fender that is plugged with a grommet. I cut the sign pole to length. It has holes in inch increments which worked out perfectly. I drilled the necessary ones on each end out to 1/2" & bolted the pole to the top of the fender well & flopped the tire against it & strapped her down. I now have plenty of flat storage area for coolers, tool bag, etc. that is relatively easily accessible. If I have time I'm going to try to bolt down some small D rings for straps to hold everything down secure.





 
#840 ·
Did some more work yesterday. Pretty much all ready for this weekend. Just need to grab some bolts to bolt down my d rings.

I ground down the shelf from N to R on my gear selector. This allows me a quick slap shift into R without having to depress the thumb lock on the handle.


Quick temporary fix for my shock body interference with the frame on full flex. Moved the shock to the outside of the mount & used a longer grade 8 bolt with a crush sleeve stuck in between the old mount. Should hold me over nice until I can get some new mounts welded on.
 
#842 ·
LOL! Nice! Shows the importance of cycling suspension & checking clearances on everything prior to welding. I didn't have that chance seeing as how I welded all the bracket on the axle at my bro in laws house, away from the jeep, so we just measured & then guessed. The axle moves laterally a lot more than I expected.
 
#843 ·
Got out & wheeled Mission Impossible this past weekend. Good time! I was the least built in the group, but kept up with the big boys all day. I tried some climbs I never had the balls to do & made them. We were done at MI around 5:00 or so & headed over to the quarry at the Badlands, where I did some pretty impressive climbs there as well. No videos of those though. :gunfight: cameraman! The flat belly is flat out titties! I might have sraped it maybe twice all day long. She drove smooth at butter all the way there & back at 70 mph. Didn't break anything all day.

I ran the MTR's down at 10psi & didn't have a lick of trouble with popping beads or spinning on the rim. So that's my new psi. All the sidewalls held up fine, so no need to use the Discount Tire warranty this time.

I never really found myself wanting more wheelbase all day long. It's kind of a damned if you do & damned if you don't scenario I think. There were a few obstacles the longer rigs similar to mine, on 35's, struggled a little with, that I one shot, but there were some things they tried that I back down from. Analyzing the obstacles I tackled, there is a lot more I can ask of the Jeep the way it sits. The only thing I really found my self wanting quite a few times all day, was a good cage & seats with a 5 point harness. The windshield is a critical item, that is really in harms way, so it'd be nice to remove that when wheeling, which the cage would allow me to do.

I took some measurements last night & have been looking at some of the cages out there for ideas. I really like the BTF full cage design & will probably copy that with a few changes. I will use the stock B & C pillars.

1. Extend the tube through the dash to the floor. No stanchions.
2. Windshield V bars.
3. Tube gussets on the B pillar.
4. Instead of bending the spreader bars down as the A pillars to the floor, they will run straight to the windshield, then the A pillars will come up through the dash & weld into the spreader bar. Just like their Sport Cage does.
5. Some front grab handles to make it easier for my wife to get in.






Now, let's talk about seats. I'm looking for something good, but affordable. I would like a recliner type seat as I still need relatively easy access to the back seat for my kids. I have not decided against a fixed back & price alone might push me that way. Can anyone comment about rear seat accessiblity with a fixed back seat? I'm looking to stay under $300 per seat.

PRP Daily Driver - In my price range. The lower sides would be nice, but it's fixed back. $280

Corbeau Moabs - Right at my price limit. Cloth version is $80 less. Flipper. Not a lot of hip support. $300/$260

Corbeau Baja SS - very affordable, but is a fixed back seat. Good hip support. $200

Any others I should look at?
 
#844 ·
Add another seat to the mix. Another fixed back. Corbeau Baja JP. $200

I also forgot to mention I've been tossing around the idea of revamping my front bumper/winch plate to get a little better approach angle. Right now the bumper sticks out about 2" from the end of the frame rails & then the D ring mount sticks out another 2 1/2" or so. Am thinking about wrapping the bumper tight to the end of the frame rail & then mounting the D ring lugs on top of the bumper just offset of the bumper mounting bolts.
 
#846 ·
Yea, I have access to a bender & my bro in law can run some sweet tig beads, so I'm saving some cash & just going to build it myself. I plan on 1 3/4" x .120 DOM everywhere except the grab handles & gussets. I just called a place here in Indy, Warner Steel, & got a price of $4.50 a foot for the 1 3/4". :bacon: She double checked the price.
 
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