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Brake Problem Soft Pedal

2K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  70worm 
#1 ·
So I put new u-joints and pads on the front of my YJ back in Jan. After that I have a real soft pedal and comes to a slow stop. My brakes were not very good before that, but they really don't work good now. Since this happened I have changed the pro-valve, rotors, master cyl, pads, and bled about 20 times. Yes my bleeders are above the line. 2 years ago I replaced pads, rubber and metal lines, and MC. Somebody told me it's possible for rubber line the get a bulge in it when you hit the brakes and cause this, I don't think that's the problem.
 
#4 ·
I am not sure what you mean by your bleeders are above the line. A common mistake and I have done it myself is to buy two of the same calipers or to mix the calipers on the wrong wheel.

Look at your calipers and see if the bleeder is on top with both calipers.

Another thing to look at is the caliper rubber hose. Have someone push on the brakes with the motor running and you hold onto the rubber lines. Have the person inside pump the brakes slowly and hard for you to check and see if the rubber lines are expanding.

Please fill in your profile completely. I helps us to help you.
 
#5 ·
If that doesn't work it could be your booster. I had the same problem. If it is don't buy a reman. I highly suggest doing a TJ booster/master swap or if you can find a 95 6cyl booster. You will be amazed at the difference. It's like a whole new vehicle.
 
#15 ·
My pedal gets soft to tell me its time to adjust the rear brakes. Not replace them just adjust them. Most of your pedal travel comes from the rear brakes so I would check them first and go over them very well. Also there is a chance there is a bad seal in the MC. Can you pump up the brakes to temorarily get a stiffer pedal? (There are alot of jokes in there but since this is family friendly I will leave you to find them on your own)
 
#16 ·
I would thoroughly inspect your front calipers for leaks. It is somewhat common to have the caliper seal compromised after replacing the front pads. This is because they where further extended to compensate for the worn pads, then when the new pads are installed, the piston is forced back into the caliper(across the seal) to account for the new thickness of the new pads. If there was any corrosion at all on the pistons while extended with the worn pads, then this corrosion compromises the seal when pushed back into the caliper when new thick pads are installed. Being how you primarily noticed this after new pads were installed, I would suspect that you are in need of new calipers. These will be impossible to bleed as each actuation would then allow air to leak back in after each actuation.
 
#18 ·
Just read it again...my comprehension must be failing.
You said you put on new U joints and pads...by that do you mean the knuckle Us or the drive shaft Us? If you pulled off the calipers and were musceling around the steering joints there is a VERY distint possibility that you stressed the one or both of the rubber hoses going to the calipers. either by hanging them while you were working or by having them drop once or twice in the process.
Like I said before, it doesn't take much bulge to make the pedal soft 1 or 2 CCs of extra fluid is a lot on the pedal.
 
#22 ·
Still confused here but I'm glad you got it fixed.
Soft pedal to me would be like stepping on foam rubber. lots of travel at the same pressure with no effect on stopping. A bad booster would feel more like a hard push then a block wall with the heap not stopping as quick. maybe even having to use both feet to get enough push to stop.
 
#23 ·
I know, but I spent about $600 replacing everything then the neighbor pulled off the hose, shook the check valve didn't here anything so he tapped it on the jeep put it back in and the brakes worked on and off when we drove to town so when we got home I sprayed it with wd40 and now it works.
 
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