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95 zj dd

6K views 60 replies 5 participants last post by  PeteNnewburg 
#1 · (Edited)
I bought the ZJ about two weeks ago. It's a '95, 4.0, stock height, brush bar, 221,000 miles for $1000. PA inspected and being driven 3 - 4 days a week. PO had installed a JY radiator, new water pump, front brakes/ rotors & 1 new front caliper, It has new 4 "Sensor Trac" shocks, drag link, PS pump, Belt and new PB cables.

I replaced the battery cables, battery, starter, thermostat, thermostat housing, temp sensor, PCV valve, oil change, radiator/engine/ heater flush with fresh anti-freeze. I installed a new cap, rotor, wires, copper core plugs and air filter the first week.

It has a broken drivers lower door hinge and the latch area was "creatively repaired". I picked up a very nice door at the JY for $125. The rear hatch was rusted through at the bottom, I picked up a very nice rear hatch from the same ZJ at the JY, it had new gas struts on it too!, $125. I got lucky as they are the same color as my ZJ! I also picked up a nice set of '98 ZJ wheels and put a set of Wally World Goodyear Wranglers on them. I also got the woodgrain radio bezel and RH dash woodgrain trim, $15. The overhead console will have to wait a bit.

Next up, I need to replace the RF hub, LF CV joint & hub, prothane bushing & sway bar bushing kit and then it will get an alignment. While we have it jacked up I'll change motor & trans mounts. I have a new silicone Fel-Pro valve cover gasket to install yet. I also got a new fan clutch, as the fan turns constantly, even with 195* thermostat there is very little heat. Temp gauge never goes above 110*.

The engine runs very nicely with no noises. Transmission shifts well, the VC must have been changed as the 4WD works perfectly with no noises even in a tight figure 8, other than the LH CV joint clicking. I have a steep driveway and steeper yet hill into the back yard, I had no problems going through 5"s of snow on both. I drove through 135 miles of un-plowed roads Friday with no problems.

Other than a sagging headliner, the interior is nice, a little dirty, cargo area carpet is stained but most should clean up OK. Crappy SONY radio and only one speaker works.

I discovered while flushing the cooling system that the brush bar's only mount is where it is welded to the lower radiator support. Another creative piece of work!

Other than that it drives great! My new parts purchases are split between Advance & SUMMIT. Within 20 Miles there are 15+ ZJ's in JY's! Even a ORVIS!

I'll post newer pics soon. These were from the day I brought it home.
 

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#28 ·
I installed the WOLO horns today, wiring soldered and all fasteners installed with Loctite. Every thing went well with the horns, enough wire to do the soldering, I used the original mounting brackets (cleaned & painted) and fasteners.
I also installed my KOR radiator support. This was a very interesting experience. In my opinion, this is a very over-hyped component that, again in my opinion is great in concept, but not in execution. I am really un-impressed with the product, customer support and overall experience. I may be the one in a thousand unhappy customer, but it is what it is. Extremely poorly packaging required a number of attempts to receive missing hardware. The hardware received did not include components shown in the hardware package associated with the radiator support, missing was the backing plate for the vertical inner frame rail mounts. I had material in my shop to fabricate the needed parts so another week of waiting for parts was not needed.
I could write another paragraph or 4 with more complaints with this product, but I’m sure most other customers had better experiences than mine. Even the fasteners sent were not correct. I needed to "massage" the rad support itself to fit, even then it looks to have "adjusted" some OE pinch welds. A re-alignment will tell. I am NOT happy. I even had difficulty with the extracost shackles, Chineese of course. No more KOR!!!:thumbdown:
 

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#31 ·
Thank You!

I got my order from The Fastener Wharehouse.com! New screws, wireing loom retainers, trim panel retainers, spring & clip nuts, rocker & bumper trim retainers, trim screws + more... almost like a mini Christmas! I hate trying to reuse the OE plastic retainers and rusty screws.
 
#32 ·
A few too many Yuengling Lord Chesterfields and I ordered a header & 3" exhaust system including a cat from SUMMIT.. :D
Kolak does not have a mandrel bent down pipe, or it could be I pissed him off!?.
I'll adapt the stock down pipe for now and order a 2.5/ 3" mandrel tubing kit.
My impact ball joint/ tie rod seperator tool set arrived along with the bulk purchase of K&N oil filters. The transmission pan drain kit alsoo arrived. Looks like my work todo list is piling up!
 
#34 ·
idk, bought the rest of the exhaust elsewhere. I was under the impression he had mandrel bent header to cat pipes..

I ordered the 3" cat backsystem & 3" cat from SUMMIT, 5PM on 4/30, it arrived @ 10AM the next morning. $237 shipped to my door in 17 hours, crazy fast shipping. The OE exhaust has a 1 7/8 tailpipe, makes the 3" look huge! The headers are supposed to be here Monday - Wednesday. I'll have to get moving and clean up the 99+ intake and 703 injectors!
I have her up on stands to do swaybar bushings, control arm & bushing replacement along with the 2" BB and new Bilsteins. I have a bunch of other stuff lined up and it looks like a good time to do the fuel filter and a little rust removal too.
I soaked everything in PB Blaster overnight, I hope it helps!
 
#35 ·
PeteNnewburg said:
idk, bought the rest of the exhaust elsewhere. I was under the impression he had mandrel bent header to cat pipes..

I ordered the 3" cat backsystem & 3" cat from SUMMIT, 5PM on 4/30, it arrived @ 10AM the next morning. $237 shipped to my door in 17 hours, crazy fast shipping. The OE exhaust has a 1 7/8 tailpipe, makes the 3" look huge! The headers are supposed to be here Monday - Wednesday. I'll have to get moving and clean up the 99+ intake and 703 injectors!
I have her up on stands to do swaybar bushings, control arm & bushing replacement along with the 2" BB and new Bilsteins. I have a bunch of other stuff lined up and it looks like a good time to do the fuel filter and a little rust removal too.
I soaked everything in PB Blaster overnight, I hope it helps!
Can't wait to see how this will turn out!!! Good luck!
 
#36 · (Edited)
Pretty productive day today all things considered, rear upper & lower control arms replaced on the passenger side, track bar at frame mount disconnected and swaybar half removed. I got a used swaybar from SQUAZZ a month or so ago, good thing 'cause the OE swaybar was almost rusted through!!
On to the left side in the morning. I had sprayed/ juiced all fasteners with blaster yesterday. Biggest issue was the Chinese Lower control arm. The bushing sleeve was 1/4" larger than the bracket. I checked it against the original sleeve and a Prothane bushing sleeve. Horray the bench grinder works! The track bar Torx Cap screw, lubed, heated, and then the cap screw head fell off. I was able to draw the bolt out from the other side by adding washers and tightening the nut as the bolt was rusted tight to the inner metal sleeve. 2 freaking hours between the two. My little sister showed up just in time with Brooklyn Lager!!
I did not get as much done as desired, BUTT, HHHMmmmm tasty beer!! I like hops!
 
#37 · (Edited)
Another productive day!! All rear control arms are now new!! Even the track bar bushings have been replaced! I still have a good bit of work to do, wire brushing of surface rust to prep for POR15, R&R rear sway bar to avoid rubbing on the ABS lines, clean and re-atach P Brake cables & metal brake lines. pics to follow!
I did have "fun" with the track bar fasteners. As mentioned before, the first was drawn through by adding washers, the lower required turning the left over bolt (from grinding/ cutting the head off) with the impact wrench while hammering with the air hammer bit. Why we were we not born with 4 arms I'll never know!! Oh Yeah, WTF torx bit suspension parts??
I did get to play with a lot of tools that had been growing dust! It is awesome to have the tools you need to do a job! It was a PITA to remove both upper & lower track bar bushings, but getting them out of their brackets was the real PITA.
To remove the OE bushings from the track bar, I used a 3/16 drill bit to start the process, drilling a half dozen holes on both sides of the rubber bushing. I used a Mapp Gas plumbing torch to burn out the rubber. Once the rubber part of the bushing was pretty much gone, I used a steel rod to push the inner sleeve out. Once the sleeve was out, I used a flat screw driver to loosen and remove the remaining rubber. I then used a carbide burr to grind a slot in the bushing shell, It was easy at that point to collapse the shell and push it out of the track bar.. I had a 8" C clamp ready to seat the new polyurethane bushings, but they went in nicely with just the supplied silicone grease.
I used new grade 8 fasteners where ever I could fit them, (Tractor Supply), (Side note!! Stock up on these as they are doing away with selling them by weight!!)
BEST PART!! I now have a 2" BB in the rear, complete with Bilstien shocks, poly bushings for both sway & track bars. The rear suspension is now very TIGHT, it was down right sloppy/ floppy when it was first lowered. I am looking forward to a much quieter ride, there was a LOT of slop back there!!
The drivers side upper control arm was SO rusted, you could see light through the flakey rust.
I did take some pics that I will post, but the process is best as described.
 
#39 ·
Due to time and cash restraints, I bought the "Walker Brand" down/ exhaust pipe so I can get her back on the road ASAP. I'll do a mandrel bent pipe via kit when time allows.
The "wALKER pIPE sUCKS". It is a shame to turn a peice of 2.25 pipe into that monster restrictive crap. They should be ashamed of them selves. I'll post pics of the new pipes vs OE pipes.
SOAP BOX MOMENT --- SUMMIT Racing is awesome!! With a little bit of heads up, their prices can be the cheapest around, shipping is insanely fast and they stand by everything.
I got my stainless steel header today from Ebait. Looks good, install will tell! Though not mentioned, they incuded gaskets & fasteners!
While her rear is still up in the air I'll start hanging the new pipes!
 
#40 ·
A bit of a "day off".

I washed down my work area.
I did get a few of my OE lights polished today, they look like new! I also tried cerium oxide(?) polish for glass on the OE glass fog lights. I used a low speed 3" orbital polisher, kept the lens wet to prevent cracking, it did start getting hot! It did not seem to remove many pits, but after 5 minutes or so I could see that the edges of the deeper pits were being smoothed out. The lens I worked does look brighter.... I'll give them another 15 minutes each then done.
 
#41 ·
JY trip!

I finally made it out to the JY today! I picked up a few front signal harnesses, some extra vacuum lines, tee & elbows. I also got a '96 style power steering pump with bracket, fasteners, lines and a nice antenna. $35 for all.
I got the '96 PS pump & brackets to do the 99+ intake & 703 injector swap while I am putting the header and new exhaust on.
I had gotten a front drivers door and rear hatch off a '94 at a different JY, I went back today to get the 2 back doors and rear privacy glass. That ZJ had been crushed so I got just the privacy glass from two other doors as well as the rear glass from a '96. That ZJ had a decent hatch, (it has a dent) but with the flipper rear glass! I paid $100 for all the glass and the hatch.
 
#42 ·
Moving up front!

Well, the rear end is off the jack stands! I finished up the CA, Shock, 2" BB, track bar & sway bar link install. I will need to do more cleaning, rust repair and brake work under the rear, but I'm gettn itchy to do the front lift, exhaust/ intake/ injector up grade and suspension work.
I want to sand blast the Parking Brake bracket, replace brake lines and cables, but it can wait till the fun stuff is done!!
PICS COMING!
 
#43 ·
Cleaning & Prep

OK, I spent yesterday cleaning the ZJ, I spent a good part of today cleaning again, a lot of it seemed to be on me. However, the control arm replacement front and rear is now done! The LH front was trying to PMO, but 4 sessions of blue wrench followed with PB Blaster, and a 18" extension on my 16" breaker bar… I also replaced the track bar bushing, that was the most time consuming! I really did not want to deal with a broken bolt there! The LH axle bushing was a PITA! I hit the RH axle bushing with some heat and the impact hammer sent the bushing flying!
I hope to finish the 2" BB and shock swap in the AM, exhaust/ intake swap is next!
 
#44 ·
Moving along!

My project is moving along. I am doing a bit of a write up for each stage of the process. I am taking pics, but a lot are blurry. I need to use a tripod:( . I will give a step - by - step process that even I can follow!
The 2" BB, CA replacement, track bar bushing, sway bar bushing/ link is almost done. I just need to re-attach the RH caliper, LH upper shock mount, lower track bar mount and sway bar links. Then it will be "torque" time!
Next on tap - - - '99+ Intake, 703 injector & exhaust upgrade!
 
#46 ·
Unforeseeable circumstances have put a temporary hold on some of my projects for the ZJ as she must go back to the DD position by Saturday.
Yesterday I did the power steering cooler addition. I also sanded down the rusty areas on the rocker panels and painted them with POR-15.
I may start the trans cooler addition today if it stops raining. As I cut off the muffler, I’ll need to put on the new exhaust from the header pipe back. I’ll do the trans pan drain plug & filter this week, then put the header panel, lights, grill and bumper back on.
 
#48 ·
Yes, it will be a busy week!
I'm selling or stripping the 'Stang because to keep it would be adding another project to a all ready full list. I do have a '98 'Stang just about ready for the road. A couple friends are supposed to visit next weekend to help finish a engine swap in my truck. The '94 needs the rusty rear torque boxes and fuel tank rear mounting bar repaired. I do have some repair parts that could go with the car if is sold, although I would likely get more stripping it.
With knee, back & neck problems, I can't do it all the way I used too! LOL I just want to get the projects done! The ZJ's are a lot easier to work on. Another ZJ would be great for my sister that lives with us. She has cancer in her spine and can't drive a stick anymore.
 
#51 ·
I installed my trans cooler with the included kit to the AC condenser and got everything bolted back up before I realized the best place to run the fog light harness is under the radiator and through the 1" hole provided in the frame to the spaces allocated for the horns on the LH side and the charcoal canister on the RH side. I'll take care of that Friday, and yes, the fog lights are installed.

Oh yeh, I used a fog light harness from a '94 with new wire to extend to the '96 style pig tails supplied with the fog lights. No pics, 2 of my soldering efforts looked really nice, the others looked like two Sumo Wrestlers under a black (liquid tape) tarp.
 
#52 ·
The fog light wires are now neatly tucked in behind the KOR radiator support. I cleaned up the rust at the bottom of both fenders and gave them a coat of POR-15. I cleaned up the fan shroud and fan, gave the fan a coat of semi-gloss Krylon. I installed the fan, new fan clutch and cleaned the fan shroud. I sprayed the back side of the fenders and wheel wells with 3M undercoating. I also cleaned and painted the RH fender support bracket. I still need to connect the trans cooler to the trans lines, 1st thing in the AM!
 
#53 ·
Today I finished up the trans cooler installation and dropped the trans pan & changed the filter. The JF standard seems to be 4 quarts for a pan/ filter drop. I am assuming that because I had the cooler lines separated, I may have drained more than usual, but, an extra 2 quarts? I started her up after adding 4 quarts and it was not even on the stick. I measured what came out to be 7 quarts. WTF!!
After #5& 6 quart, it is still low on the stick, in Neutral, after a 10 min warm up. It shuddered almost enough to kill the engine the first couple times I ran it through the gears, is this normal??
 
#54 ·
Today I put the '96 face lift on my '95. I discovered my new/ used header panel was missing a mounting tab, not broken, missing! The lower screw hole for the corner light had never been drilled. :dunno: Yehaw quality control!!
I did get the LH & RH cladding re-installed without a hitch. I used mostly new fasteners with some good used parts where un-avoidable. The RH fender liner purchased on eBay was super flimsy, but did fit.
The grill, fenders, fender liners, and all lighting and bumper cover are installed, looks pretty good. Oddly, all the Chinese parts lined up pretty well, I did have to do some trimming on the LH lower marker/ turn signal light so the bulb socket would fit. I set the TYC head lights in the sun to heat them up, added some white lithium grease to the ball sockets and they popped right on!! The OE parts, ( header panel & corner lights) needed a lot off adjusting to fit.

Next up; the exhaust system!
 
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