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Need some opinions

2K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  YJ_Squared 
#1 ·
I am getting ready to start on my next YJ build and I can not decide what to do. It currently has a Rough Country 2.5" lift and 3" BL on it. The BL is gone no matter what, but I cant decide to leave the 2.5" springs or go SOA.

I am fully aware of the can of worms I will be opening if I go SOA, but this is a trail only rig. My donor rig already has a traction bar and full hydro steering.

I will be using Waggie 44s so I understand they are a little tougher to do SOA, in the front at least.

Just wondering what you all would do if you all were in this situation. Time is really not a factor because it is probably going to take awhile anyway.
 
#3 ·
Fenix85182 said:
Isn't the traction bar the most difficult fab part of the SOA? I'd say if you're already on your way there to keep going... and do a build thread.
Oh I will have a build thread when I get started.

I'm not sure about the traction bar being the toughest part but I'm still just not sure. I like the thoughts of staying sua bc of center of gravity issues. But it's tough to get that set up to flex like a good SOA set up.
 
#4 ·
I don't think you can set up SUA to flex like a SOA, but I like the center of gravity of the SUA. If I go SOA in the future it would have to be fullsize axles and stretched a little. There are some springs that are more flexy than others for SUA and different combinations of bommerang shackles, revolver shackles (never tried personally) and other things that can provide decent flex for SUA. 2.5" of lift and front and rear fender mods can put you 35s easy.
 
#6 ·
You haven't mentioned what size tires you'll be running and what kind of terrain you'll be tackling. Around here, suspension travel is the difference between pulling cable and walking right through. Pick the wrong line and you'll be wanting to go lower. Like this guy:
 
#7 ·
Joe Dillard said:
I understand concern for COG - my experience is that if done correctly, SOA using a good selection of parts, the right approach, and top quality install, will provide a ride that provides a high degree of confidence and little concern with staying low to the ground.
Thanks for the input. I have been researching the hell out if this topic and I keep leaning more and more towards going spring-over. I would most likely use stock springs since they can be had for cheap and flex really well.
 
#8 ·
Anticanman said:
You haven't mentioned what size tires you'll be running and what kind of terrain you'll be tackling. Around here, suspension travel is the difference between pulling cable and walking right through. Pick the wrong line and you'll be wanting to go lower. Like this guy:
You're right, I never actually said what tire size.

I will be starting at 35s on Built Waggy axles. If I can get my setup right with 35s, then I am just some tube fenders and comp cut away from 38s or so.

Here in the mid-Atlantic region, we have lots of hills and rocks. I stay about as far away from the mud as I can. Just not worth it to me.
 
#9 ·
You can fit 38's sprung under but for your application, a stock spring over lift would work well. If rough country was ever an option, I'm just gonna pick the opposite of that. Luckily, I can back up whatever choice with a bunch of mumbo jumbo because the choice comes down to your expertise. What do the guys around you wheel with? How does it work for the terrain? What can you learn from their setups?



 
#11 ·
Louie4 said:
Amature...:D

I would do the body right and get some quality 0-2" springs for an SOA...but that's just me.
I second this, my buddies that use stock Springs break them left and right. I run 3.5 rear hd spin up front and the same thing in the rear but I use the wagoneer top leaf and 3rd leaf in the rear mixed with the other superlift leafs to stretch the rear 2 inches. I'm more than satisfied with mine SOA, I've never had ne tipsy issues either.
 
#12 ·
Ok I have officially decided on going SOA and am going to use some 1.5" lift springs.

I have found a set if axles I am trading my Waggy axles for. They are a Dana 44hd converted to a 5 lug and a 9" rear with 35 spline axles. Both are already set up for SOA for a YJ.

My jeeps are at a buddy's house and when he gets back from FL next week I will be getting started and start a build thread.
 
#13 ·
Well last week I finally got started on this thing. My time is at an absolute premium. I hope to be done by July 15th for the grand opening of the hatfield McCoy trails at Ivy.

I got the front axle, steering, and suspension out. It took quite a few hours between BSing and getting frozen bolts out. Next week I plan to get everything out at the rear and start the axle swap.

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#14 ·
I have been working a crap ton of hours lately so this thing has not gotten much attention. I did get the rear end 99% out today though. All I lack is getting the two frame end bolts out of the leaf springs. Those are being a PITA.

Here is a pic I took right before I tackled the rear shackles. I ended up having to cut the actual shackle plates in half to get to the top bolts with a sawzall. I didn't feel too peachy about torching them that close to the plastic tank.
 

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#15 ·
Are the rear bolts simply too rusted to remove, and you are having to cut them out? I know on my '94, I had to unbolt and move the gas tank side to side to remove the rear frame-shackle bolts. I'm not sure if this is the factory installed them all this way, but there was no way to pull the upper bolts out with the gas tank bolted up....the bolts are simplt too long and there was not enough room to remove them with the gas tank in place.

I didn't have to completely drop the tank, but I did have to wedge it around a bit to clear the bolts. If Jeep had simply installed them with the nuts on the inside of the frame (closest to the tank), then it would not have been an issue.
 
#16 ·
jason280 said:
Are the rear bolts simply too rusted to remove, and you are having to cut them out? I know on my '94, I had to unbolt and move the gas tank side to side to remove the rear frame-shackle bolts. I'm not sure if this is the factory installed them all this way, but there was no way to pull the upper bolts out with the gas tank bolted up....the bolts are simplt too long and there was not enough room to remove them with the gas tank in place.

I didn't have to completely drop the tank, but I did have to wedge it around a bit to clear the bolts. If Jeep had simply installed them with the nuts on the inside of the frame (closest to the tank), then it would not have been an issue.
Yeah that's the problem I had. I was not worried about keeping the stock shackles so I just hacked em up to get everything out. Now that I have room to work the upper shackle bolts should not be an issue. One thing is for sure, the new ones will be going in the opposite direction!
 
#17 ·
Yeah , those main eye bolts suck , I am on my second Yj and in both those bolts were seized . The fist time I spent a good amount of time tryng to pb blast them and beat them out before I took a sawzall to to them . Second time around I tried the impact gun with the same result so I just took an angle grinder to them with a cut-off wheel , took 30 sec .
 
#18 ·
amerdt4 said:
Yeah , those main eye bolts suck , I am on my second Yj and in both those bolts were seized . The fist time I spent a good amount of time tryng to pb blast them and beat them out before I took a sawzall to to them . Second time around I tried the impact gun with the same result so I just took an angle grinder to them with a cut-off wheel , took 30 sec .
Yeah these will be getting the sawz all treatment as soon as I get back to work on it. I'm lucky to get a few hours a week on this thing.
 
#19 ·
Finally got the front axle under this thing. Still need to hook up my hydro steering but it's sitting on at least two tires now. I still need to cut the perches off the rear 9" and weld them where I need them. Hopefully next Saturday it will at least be sitting on all fours. I was strapped for time but I will be taking more detailed pictures next week.
 

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#20 ·
I need to have this thing done by the first weekend in October and it is looking like I will be done by then. I still need to install my SYE, hydro steering and brake lines. I also plan to remove the front fenders until I can get some tube fenders built.
 
#26 ·
AmmitOsiris said:
The sye is very simple just make sure you have rtv and a good set of snap ring pliers, and if need be, get a new chain and whatever you need to fix with the chain

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Oh yeah, no problem with the sye. This will be the third I've done. No problem so long as all the parts aren't wore out like the last one I did.
 
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