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Scott's Build Thread- 85 CJ7

181K views 2K replies 85 participants last post by  Jim1611 
#1 ·
This will be a very slow thread! Since Clay and I are building his 5 I am not really building my Jeep at this time, but there are a few things that I am doing along the way. I can't put them in Clay's thread, so here is mine.

Her name is Lizzie. She's a 1985 CJ7 I got from a guy up in Hawkinsville, Georgia. She had sat in the woods for 5 years until I saw her and talked the guy into selling her to me. I got her for $1750. So far Lizzie has received a bench seat (from a Commando), MC2100, some gaskets, 2.5" RC suspension lift, ProComp 9000 shocks, and all poly suspension bushings. She is Nuttered and runs well. I am redoing the spare tire carrier and she just got some new wipers and dimmer switch.

Today I was replacing a wheel cylinder when AJ and his son JR pulled up. They helped me bleed the brakes and we discovered my Master Cylinder was bad. So we started to rebuild it. Used to be you could do that for about $3, buying a seal kit, but we discovered you can't find the seal kit anymore. So bought a reman master from Auto Zone for $18 plus the core.

Here are some pics of AJ working on the old master before we learned that we couldn't rebuild it, and some more pics of bench bleeding the new reman unit.

This is JR. He's as good a mechanic as his dad, AJ. Sitting next to JR is the old master cylinder disassembled.


To disassemble the master you have to remove the snap ring where the piston rod goes into the body. Then you carefully pull everything out. There are two plungers. The second one will be inside the body of the master. We used air pressure to force it out.


AJ buffing the lip so the lid will make a good seal.


Cleaned up and ready for the lid.


AJ used this tool to clean the bore of the master. The metal rod has a slot in the end. He used some sandpaper.


Wind it up on the rod.


Insert it into the bore and slowly spin the rod, cleaning the bore.


This is when we discovered we couldn't find a seal kit and opted for a reman. So we changed gears.


Here is the new reman master. I stuck it in my vise to prepare it for bench bleeding. I want to polish the lip so the lid will seal well. I used a metal file to do this. Keep it flat at all times. Protect the inlets from dust and trash.


Lots of filings.


Blow it out and level it in the vise.


Attach the bleeder nipples and tubes as described in the directions. Keep the ends of the tubes away from the inlets inside the reservoirs. You don't want to keep recirculating the air that will pump through the tubes.


Add clean fluid to the reservoirs, making sure the ends of the tubes are covered. Add fluid as needed to keep the tubes covered.


Push in slowly on the piston to begin the bleeding process. This will take you around a half-hour, more or less. Go slow. The directions say to use short strokes.


Bubbles!


Once all the air is removed top off the reservoirs, remove the tubes, and cap the nipples. You are ready to install.


Sorry for the super long post! But that will be all for awhile! :D
 
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#547 ·
Coiz said:
And in that actual picture he was only half done. Am I right Bill?
If you mean did I do the other one on the back side , I didn't . The stock one I used needed to be welded to the passenger side. I set the ground perch and axle on the pin on the drivers side. Then put the un-ground perch on the pass side, clamped the axle to the spring, c (5.9*) looked at the pinion yoke and tacked the perch on. This was with the springs/jeep supported by jacks, at ride height.

Bill
 
#549 ·
Mike, thanks for the perspective. I got it now, but I'm afraid to take a grinder to the perch. I don't have Bill's experience or... um... years! He keeps teaching me new stuff, and I keep being amazed at what he knows, but I'm chicken!! :eek:
 
#550 ·
I got a little motivation this morning, and I started to reassemble my 7 after cannibalizing so much of it for Clay's 5. Awhile back, Bill sent me a Clifford intake to replace mine, since mine ended up on Clay's motor! I started cleaning surfaces with a file (flange to block, flange to carb), and I got to thinking about a common mishap when mounting a 2100 carb to an adapter plate. I "learned" this when I did Clay's MC2100, because I "experienced" it! I mounted up his 2100 and I had a terrible vacuum leak. But I didn't know anything about it because it was "my first time"! AJ was over and he discovered my leak, which was HUGE! We couldn't hear it and propane made no difference. After removing the whole intake AJ discovered the problem... so we fixed it. And Voila! No more intake leak. So I thought I would post up some pics so you guys can see the mistake I made. These are all just mock-ups, but final assembly will be similar...

First of all, here is the Clifford intake. It has a Clifford adapter plate already on it.


Here is a picture of the bottom of my MC2100. This came off an F150.


If you install the paper gasket that comes in the rebuild kit, it will look something like this.


It will seal just fine in the front (hard to tell in this pic, but take my word for it). There is no gasket to see... this is only a demo.


But it will leave this gaping hole across the back.


All of this area is a vacuum leak, and it is so big that propane made no difference. AJ and I could not hear it (no stethoscope was used). The engine would run if you stayed on the throttle, but once you let go it would die.


This spacer makes a seal...


Or this paper gasket makes a seal...


I'll do something like this, with a paper gasket between the spacer and the adapter and the spacer and the carb.


I have seen this happen on several MC2100 installs. I have also seen differences in 2100 carb bases by years, but I don't know enough about it to say anything specific about years/models, etc. What I'm saying is pay attention to this area when installing your MC2100, because you can't see this problem when the carb is mounted and under the hood.

I hope someone finds this useful. And Thanks to Billy Boy for the intake!
 
#551 ·
Awright, you Scurvy Dogs.... here's my take on drilling/tapping my Clifford intake for the power steering bracket. Blow by sordid blow. Laggards weep...

Since Bill sent me this HyPo Clifford intake, which I'm sure will have me grabbing rubber through 3 gears, with 2.73 and 35s :)D), I need to bore the ONE MISSING HOLE! But Beggars can't be Choosers (if they choose they should be shot!), so since this manifold isn't PERFECT, it's up to me to make it so. I need to drill and tap this one plug for the upper pwr steering brackert. oops... bracket. I mocked up the intake, remounted my previously uninstalled power steering pump/bracket, tightened it all down... more or less... marked the hole with a Dullie (inverse of Sharpie... that's what we use here in White Springs!), and then "center-punched" it for a 3/8s bolt. I used a 3/8 drill bit, tapping gently on the butt end with a hammer, while slowing turning the bit. I think this will work...
 

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#553 ·
Wellll... hell. The outside shape of the casting is not indicative of the thickness of the plug. Don't know if it's called a plug, but that's what I'm calling it. As you see in the pics, I centered the hole. Clay and I just drilled it out. I measured then drilled. Pulled it out, measured, and drilled some more, over and over. STILL I DRILLED THROUGH! But there is no way you could have had a viable hole with holding threads if I had stopped on time. The hole would have only been a 1/4", and that would have left a very thin wall behind the bolt. I am using a 3/4" X 3/8 bolt at this mount. I couldn't find 1/2" bolts, but they would have been too long too.

So I have this 3/8 tapped hole right into the intake. I'm telling myself "it ain't that bad!" What do ya'll recommend for sealing the threads? Hi-Temp RTV??
 
#555 ·
Thought about it, but I'm thinking a stud would make it necessary to remove your steering pump to get the bracket off the manifold??? Kind of a PITA, although I don't have immediate plans to remove the manifold again! How hot would the intake get? The intake is aluminum.
 
#559 ·
That is an option. I believe all I need is some kind of sealant around the threads to prevent leakage, so this might work. Still, I'm wondering about hi-temp RTV??

My first thought is to take the manifold and have a slug tig welded into a larger hole. So what I mean is drill a 3/4" hole in the manifold, and use 3/4" aluminum bar stock 1" long. Then redrilled and tap the bar stock 5/8" deep.

The fix to this needs to be permanent. The last thing you want is taking the manifold off because JB weld , or loctite didn't work. I say this because the threaded hole is only 3/8" deep, that's not a lot of sealing area on the threads.

If you were to JB weld the threads, and bolt the bracket on, does the pulley line up with the crank/water pump pulleys?

On edit, a 3/8" bolt only needs 3/8" of thread to hold torque, that's in cast, or steel. I imagine aluminum would require twice that.

Bill
This is probably the best idea, and I already talked to Clay about taking it to the school to do it. We were talking about welding it up from the inside, and Clay said they don't have the special rotating TIG head to do it, but we didn't talk about a slug welded in place. I'll cover that with him too.

Words not required.

Bill

View attachment 582662
A deserved supper after a hard day of Jeep work! :cheers2:
 
#557 ·
My first thought is to take the manifold and have a slug tig welded into a larger hole. So what I mean is drill a 3/4" hole in the manifold, and use 3/4" aluminum bar stock 1" long. Then redrilled and tap the bar stock 5/8" deep.

The fix to this needs to be permanent. The last thing you want is taking the manifold off because JB weld , or loctite didn't work. I say this because the threaded hole is only 3/8" deep, that's not a lot of sealing area on the threads.

If you were to JB weld the threads, and bolt the bracket on, does the pulley line up with the crank/water pump pulleys?

On edit, a 3/8" bolt only needs 3/8" of thread to hold torque, that's in cast, or steel. I imagine aluminum would require twice that.

Bill
 
#563 ·
Scott I would not weld that hole up. The best fix is to drill and tap it for a tapered pipe plug, they're used elsewhere in engines. I think you could get by with a 1/8" tapered pipe tap for that size hole and most every hardware and allot of parts stores sells them. Use a brass plug if you can get it and seal it with some teflon paste sealer. Easy fix.
 
#564 ·
Jim1611 said:
Scott I would not weld that hole up. The best fix is to drill and tap it for a tapered pipe plug, they're used elsewhere in engines. I think you could get by with a 1/8" tapered pipe tap for that size hole and most every hardware and allot of parts stores sells them. Use a brass plug if you can get it and seal it with some teflon paste sealer. Easy fix.
Jim, he needs the hole for the power steering mounting bracket. Are you saying install the plug and then drill and tap the plug?

Bill
 
#565 ·
No... the pipe plugs tighten up in a tapered hole, and they are shallow. Possible to get it to hang at the end of the hole, but I may not have enough thread left for the mounting bolt. I will investigate that.

Any problems with having a bolt or plug sticking out into the air channel on the intake? Will it disrupt airflow, etc?


Thanks, Jim. That's along the lines of what I was calling you about. I will touch bases with you at some point, but I am busy as all get out this week.
 
#566 ·
Any problems with having a bolt or plug sticking out into the air channel on the intake? Will it disrupt airflow, etc?
Plug it and Dremel the inside flush?
 
#570 ·
So Skipper Scott lemme see if I got this correct? In the past gremlins came into your shop and moved bolt holes now they have increased the level of no goodness and stole a bolt hole from you intake manifold and stolen the threads from Clays steering box. Gawd this gremlins are getting serious!

Skipper here is what I would do if I were you, just weld up the bolt hole and not worry about bolt on your power steering bracket. Structurally you will be good with out it and trying to weld a boss to the manifold will be problematic.
 
#571 ·
Not to overstep in 8pitcher, but which manifold do you have? I have an extra of the 78 style where the exhaust manifold bolts to the intake's bottom. It is cast iron so it's heavy, but it's free to whoever needs it... I got it with my exhaust manifold when I broke it last summer, and won't need it.

On edit... it is for a 1bbl YF... may not be that desirable..
 
#573 ·
Skipper yes you should be good with only one bolt. I have run the Clifford manifold myself and it is a high-quality unit. My only complaint with it is the intake runners are too large which slows the velocity of the fuel air mixture at lower rpm's and that can cause stumbling when taking off from the stop. The manifold seems to come on at about 1500 rpm's below that rpm it stumbles and hesitates.
 
#574 ·
I stumble and hesitate anymore myself! At least I won't need a laptop on the pass seat!! :fistlaugh:

Sorry, Dude... that was uncalled for. :rofl: But it sure is funny!!

I will probably never notice it since I am so lo-tech. That fact that it rolls under its own power is totally hypnotizing!
 
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