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Buying a WK/XK?? (Read This)

258K views 321 replies 144 participants last post by  tom.stogdale 
#1 ·
So you're looking to purchase a Jeep WK (2005-2010), here are a few things that you may want to look at during your walk around and/or test drive. Keep in mind that you should always consider having the vehicle you are interested in buying inspected by a certified mechanic, so this post is in no way a substitution of that service.

Always ask about the last time the 4x4 was serviced, ESPECIALLY when it is around and/or approaching the service interval for the 4x4.

Always test every single electronic feature that is available on the WK. I will not list them all, because not all are available on every WK. But test everything from the power mirror windows and heated seats to the Navigation and A/C

Engage the 4x4 on an appropriate trail or gravel road, and ensure that it works properly. This means that is does not bind and buckle, especially during turns.

As you look underneath the vehicle. Inspect the seal on the transfercase, and differentials, and also inspect the area just below the engine to ensure that there is no oil leaking from them.

Many southern dealers will buy Jeeps from the North and sell them down south. Make sure the doggone Jeep doesn't have extensive rust damage.

Other common sense stuff includes checking fluids, brakes, lights, and tires (though every state I've been to requires a certain amount of tread before it can be sold).

Bones_WK: Suggests shifting the transmission between P,R,N,D - And listening/feeling for any delay as this could be indicative of a failing transmission.

Bones_WK also suggests listening/feeling for any clunking while driving, especially over pot-holes or speed bumps as this could be a sign of worn bearings or bushings/Upper or lower Control Arms/Ball joints - etc.

I'm sure I'll miss stuff - so for those who have purchased and own a WK, feel free to contribute on items to look/listen for when purchasing a WK.
 
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#4 ·
So you're looking to purchase a Jeep WK (2005-2010), here are a few things that you may want to look at during your walk around and/or test drive. Keep in mind that you should always consider having the vehicle you are interested in buying inspected by a certified mechanic, so this post is in no way a substitution of that service.

Always ask about the last time the 4x4 was serviced, ESPECIALLY when it is around and/or approaching the service interval for the 4x4.

Always test every single electronic feature that is available on the WK. I will not list them all, because not all are available on every WK. But test everything from the power mirror windows and heated seats to the Navigation and A/C

Engage the 4x4 on an appropriate trail or gravel road, and ensure that it works properly. This means that is does not bind and buckle, especially during turns.

As you look underneath the vehicle. Inspect the seal on the transfercase, and differentials, and also inspect the area just below the engine to ensure that there is no oil leaking from them.

Many southern dealers will buy Jeeps from the North and sell them down south. Make sure the doggone Jeep doesn't have extensive rust damage.

Other common sense stuff includes checking fluids, brakes, lights, and tires (though every state I've been to requires a certain amount of tread before it can be sold).

Bones_WK: Suggests shifting the transmission between P,R,N,D - And listening/feeling for any delay as this could be indicative of a failing transmission Loud clunk from shifting from PRND or P-D, P-R. R-D etc. are front differential bushings going bad.

Bones_WK also suggests listening/feeling for any clunking while driving, especially over pot-holes or speed bumps as this could be a sign of worn bearings or bushings/Upper or lower Control Arms/Ball joints - etc.

I'm sure I'll miss stuff - so for those who have purchased and own a WK, feel free to contribute on items to look/listen for when purchasing a WK.
Awesome stuff AJ - fixed a few for you.

Also note the 2005-2006 4.7 and Hemi issues about exhaust manifolds going bad. Turn the jeep on, and listen for exhaust leaks in the engine bay, open the hood and smell for exhaust fumes (both sides). Probably applies to anything over 70k to at least check

Turn the wheel while sitting still from lock to lock. Coast down the road truing the wheel some back and forth (safely) - pops or knocks could be the steering rack

Check door handles, these seem to crack and break easily!

Check hood and liftgate supports - easy fix but just be aware
 
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#6 ·
Just got off the phone with the dealer. Part's cheap... $35 but labor is 3-4 hours. Has anyone changed this themself that can give me an idea of what's involved? Also, if I find that I can't do it and it'll cost me $500 at a dealer, do I hurt anything by not fixing it? Or is it just that I have to hear the loud clunk when shifting into gear? Thanks in advance :cheers2:
 
#7 ·
You definitely want to fix it, mine was so bad it was smacking the oil pan. I had my buddy fix it for me so cant give insight on the job but many people on here have done themselves
 
#10 ·
A night time test drive if possible would be wise, some of the lights were out on the buttons for the climate and information center, and ended up costing me about $500 to fix by replacing all the controls, apparently you can't just replace the bulbs and have to replace the entire unit. There was no way to see that the controls were out since I test drove my Jeep during the day.
 
#14 ·
So the steering racks, exhaust manifolds on V8s, and electrical gremlins are basically the only common problems with WKs? I'm considering a Hemi model myself, but I want a dependable vehicle that I don't have to throw money at when it gets a little age on it.
 
#16 ·
I'm considering a Hemi model myself, but I want a dependable vehicle that I don't have to throw money at when it gets a little age on it.
There's a reason the 5.7 HEMI is still in production after all these years (with slight modifications): it's powerful, reliable, and it can be fuel efficient on the highway if driven carefully, especially considering the massive weight. It's a work engine plain and simple, it can take a beating and heavy use including towing and still run well over 200,000 miles without burning any oil. Same goes for the transmission, they are both meant for serious use and most Jeep owners simply don't do that. All the little sensors and electronics are Chrysler products and can go out randomly, but they're some of the cheapest parts to buy compared to any other vehicle I've owned. Make sure the previous owner has kept records of all the services done, and definitely test drive a few, you probably will notice differences between the way they run. FYI: service C at 90,000 miles costs a little over a grand if you have it done at the dealership.
 
#17 ·
Help! Please see my other thread!

Related to buying used Grand Cherokee's...
...could you please jump over to the "Engines & Drivetrain" forum and read my thread "Non-JEEP owner looking for answers" ? ? ?
It concerns a used 2006 Grand Cherokee that has major problems.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
#18 ·
I have a problem:

When I shift from Reverse to Drive without coming to a complete stop and waiting a couple seconds I hear a noise and then my car will die...
Help?

2006 : Grand Cherokee : 5.7L Hemi : 4x4 : QDII
 
#25 ·
They are a flawed design. I never wanted one but wound up with it with thinking like you. It was a good deal. Now my liner is destroyed and water has gotten in everything. Finally hopefully getting it fixed on Friday. From what I've heard it has a slim chance of being fixed properly.
 
#26 ·
Some people have problems, others don't. I don't personally. It has largely to do with where you park because the drain ports get clogged or something. I don't think you can find a higher end GC without a sunroof though.
 
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#27 ·
Well we'll leave that part out when convincing the wife haha. Still working on telling her that the 5.7 hemi is a definite necessity! Other than the possible sunroof info, do you guys see a problem with the price or miles? Like I said I'm new with jeeps so I don't want to end up upside down after buying it immediately, or have tons of problems because of 90k miles
 
#29 ·
Here's what they say:
"Also included on this vehicle is 2 YEARS or 100,000 MILES of powertrain warranty. This covers your engine, Transmission and drive axles for 2 years from the date of purchase or until 100,000 miles appears on the odometer"

Funny how they word it though, cause 100,000 miles on the odometer is a mere 10k miles away.
 
#32 ·
Well, seeing as you have the exact same jeep I'm looking at.. You'll be the best person to ask the next question too.

I'm coming from a high mileage 05 trailblazer that needs a lot of work (gas mileage is terrible.)

BUT, it's a 4.2L I6, am I in for a shocker with the gas mileage of a 5.7?
 
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