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Remote Start & Keyless Entry ... VERY EASY!

186K views 336 replies 95 participants last post by  three_jeeps 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I thought I would share with you all my remote start experience on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee....

Total install time... 1.5 hrs

Equipment you will need...
1. Avital 4103 Remote Start & Keyless Entry System D2D compatible $75.
2. Expresskit DBALL Integration / Bypass Module $50.

Before we begin, let me start off by saying, although this is relatively an easy DIY install, if you feel you're not up to the task or do not really know what you're doing, leave it to a pro. The wire colors I have stated are what I used on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and from my research should be the same for all 99-04 Grand Cherokee models, but DOUBLE CHECK all yours to be sure. NEVER just go by what they say the wires are on paper, always TEST THEM to be sure!

Step 1...
A. Remove the plastic panel directly underneath your gauges, by prying it up and out. There are no screws that hold it in place. It simply will pop off.

B. Remove the large panel under your dash (the panel across your knees). It is held in place by a total of 5 screws.

C. Remove the steering wheel column cover. One recessed philips screw hold it together, and then you simply pull the two halves apart.

Now you have access to all the areas of your vehicle where you will need to tap / connect into to install your system.

Step 2...
A. On the DBALL module, connect the PINK (+) ignition input lead coming from harness 10 (there are five harness inputs, labeled 2, 12, 14, 4 and 10) to the YELLOW (+) ignition output of the Avital 4103.

B. Tap the VIOLET / YELLOW J1850 lead coming from harness 14 on the DBALL module to PIN 2 on the Jeeps OBDII diagnostic connector.

C. On the bottom side of the steering column, you will find the key immobilizer module. Cut the wire coming from PIN 3 (DARK BLUE / WHITE) and connect the immobilizer side end to the ORANGE / YELLOW wire coming from harness 14 on the DBALL module, and then connect the car side end to the YELLOW wire coming from harness 14 on the DBALL module.

D. On the left side of the steering column, you will find the headlight switch. Tap both the VIOLET / GREEN and VIOLET / BROWN wires coming from harness 12 on the DBALL module to PIN 11 (YELLOW) on the white headlight switch connector.

E. On the bottom side of the steering column, you will find the ignition switch connector. Tap the two RED 12V high current input wires coming from "large gauge starting harness" on the Avital unit to the single RED wire on the ignition switch connector. Tap the PINK ignition output wire coming from "large gauge starting harness" on the Avital unit to the DARK BLUE on the ignition switch connector. Tap the VIOLET starter output wire coming from "large gauge starting harness" on the Avital unit to the YELLOW on the ignition switch connector. Tap the ORANGE accessory 1 output wire coming from "large gauge starting harness" on the Avital unit to the RED / BLACK on the ignition switch connector. Tap the PINK / WHITE ignition 2 output wire coming from "large gauge starting harness" on the Avital unit to the BLACK / ORANGE wire on the ignition switch.

F. Connect (or ground) the BLACK / WHITE neutral safety shutdown wire coming from the Avital 4103 unit.

G. Connect (ground) the BLACK ground wire coming from the Avital 4103 unit.

H. Plug in the extended range antenna to the Avital unit. Route and install in an appropriate location.

I. Plug in the valet / programming button to the Avital unit. Route and install in an appropriate location.

That's it for the wiring! You can tie up or cut all the extra unused wires and leads. Now it's time to program the module for D2D mode and finalize the installation.

Step 3...
A. Connect the D2D harness to the Avital unit but NOT to the DBALL module. Now connect harness 10, 12, 14 to the DBALL module. Press and hold the programming button, then connect the 4-pin D2D harness. Wait until the LED turns on ORANGE then release the programming button. The LED should now be RED. D2D connection is now complete!

B. To program the key bypass, insert the key into the ignition barrel and turn it to the ON position. The LED turns on solid GREEN for 3 seconds and the turns off. Turn the key to the OFF position and remove the key. Bypass is now complete!

And you're done!!! Give yourself a pat on your back!!!

Go ahead and test the system out, and if everything's working as it should, it's time to zip-tie and clean everything up. A good place to secure both the Avital unit and the DBALL module is right behind the fuse panel. It's a tight space, but everything does fit there nicely.

Naturally you can use any remote start / keyless entry system, but one that is D2D compatible (as with the the Avital 4103 and most late model Viper systems), really does simply everything. It eliminates the need to cut, tap and splice a dozen plus more wires.

Good luck and enjoy!
:2thumbsup:
 
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#28 ·
Having bad issue with Avital 5303 Installation

I posted this my problem in another thread and I was advised to take a look at this thread. An installation place installed my Avital 5303 Remote start/alarm in my 99 WJ and it works fine for a few days...After a few days, i start the car from the remote and it starts up and shuts off. I have to bring it back to the installation place to reprogram it and again...works great for a few days, then back to the same problem. They put some sort of box in with one of my other OEM jeep keys, as they called it a sacrifice key. They said this should work and if by any chance I have to clear any computer codes, this shouldnt effect the remote start. He was very wrong! Someone in a different forum told me that this was the ghetto way to bypass the SKIM module. Now, the way you describe installing your Avital system with the DBall module, is this supposed to take care of this specific problem that I am having? Thanks a lot.

-Ashley
 
#29 ·
I would agree that the old sacrifice key box is ghetto. No one reputable would use it. Not only that but it makes it easy to steal the Jeep. This can also bring hell your way if your Jeep does get stolen since the fact is that there was a key left in the jeep and some insurance does not cover theft by key. They see this as neglect to prevent theft. The DB-all module acts like a key and only does so when the remote starter commands it to do so. It can also control the factory alarm if you have one along with controlling power door locks for keyless entry. I would do the swap without hesitation.
 
#30 ·
F**king awesome write-up. I have had remote start on my last 2 vehicles and miss it. This will be a much cheaper alternative.
 
#31 ·
I just installed my second remote start on one of my cars. They are super easy to do as stated in these post. Just make sure you solder all your connections and get a good wiring diagram. Bulldog Security has about every diagram you can need on their webpage. You can also purchase a refurbed viper 5301 re for $99.00 if you google them. These are 2 way systems with a ton of features and a three year warranty. I love that I can check my car temp and turn on my rear defroster from a block away. I would recomend getting one of those light probes that tell you if the wire is a (-) or (+). That thing is a life saver. I know yo should use a multi meter but this is way easier.

P.S. I forgot to mention you may want to add a heavy gauge wire from the battery to under the dash with a few pig tails. This will make getting constant power allot easier. I have a 4 gauge wire running to a T-Block for my stero equipment I used for pig tails.
 
#32 ·
Coming from someone whos pretty experienced in installing remote starts, all the power you would need for a remote start is available through the ignition harness, not sure why you need an extra lead coming from the battery.
 
#34 ·
So your not hacking into existing lines and adding an extra strain on them. I agree it's not needed but if you want to do it properly vs a hack and tap you should. Which is another reason I do my own installs. I would even bet it say's it in every installation book for any security unit.
 
#36 ·
Do a google search on them. There are two kinds of remote starters. 2 way and a 1 way. They all can have a few diffrent features.

With a 2 way your remote has more options like providing the inside temperature of the car, a confirmation tone the signal was recieved and activated what you selected and a few other gadgety things.

Viper is just a name brand and the model I suggested is the 5301 Responder LE.
 
#37 ·
pushead said:
Do a google search on them. There are two kinds of remote starters. 2 way and a 1 way. They all can have a few diffrent features.

With a 2 way your remote has more options like providing the inside temperature of the car, a confirmation tone the signal was recieved and activated what you selected and a few other gadgety things.

Viper is just a name brand and the model I suggested is the 5301 Responder LE.
Will do. Thanks.
 
#39 ·
My Magnavox system, based on Avital, does way better than 20 feet. The video speaks for itself.
 
#42 ·
I got a couple questions to the original poster. So I changed out my passenger door window/lock control module because mine was shot. I got a used one out of a freedom edition. I never gr my comp reprogrammed so my key fobs would work because the dealer wants like 90 bucks. I figured that I would just do this install instead. These combined units bypass that passenger door module correct? So my lock unlock will run out of the new avitol system not the factory door module. So I don't need to get my door module reprogrammed by the dealer?
 
#43 ·
Hey guys, I thought I would share with you all my remote start experience on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee....

Total install time... 1.5 hrs


Good luck and enjoy!
:2thumbsup:
Thank you so much for this write up. I ordered the Avital 4103lxl, xpresskit dball, and Xkloader2 off amazon. Took me a few hours to go over and double check the connections with the models I got and my 99 grand Cherokee but everything checked out and during the install I just followed your steps exactly. Awesome write up for the forum!
 
#44 ·
pushead said:
I just installed my second remote start on one of my cars. They are super easy to do as stated in these post. Just make sure you solder all your connections and get a good wiring diagram. Bulldog Security has about every diagram you can need on their webpage. You can also purchase a refurbed viper 5301 re for $99.00 if you google them. These are 2 way systems with a ton of features and a three year warranty. I love that I can check my car temp and turn on my rear defroster from a block away. I would recomend getting one of those light probes that tell you if the wire is a (-) or (+). That thing is a life saver. I know yo should use a multi meter but this is way easier.

P.S. I forgot to mention you may want to add a heavy gauge wire from the battery to under the dash with a few pig tails. This will make getting constant power allot easier. I have a 4 gauge wire running to a T-Block for my stero equipment I used for pig tails.
Hi man, i am about to install a Viper remote start, but i am a bit unsure where to trigger the rear defogger relay, can you pls tell me how you hooked up this feature. Did you tap into black/white wire going from JB to rear defogger or into 86 at rear defogger relay, i got different soluttions recomended,(from Ppl that didnt wire that feature) but i want to be sure, THANKS.
 

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#45 ·
has anyone installed one of these systems and used their factory key left inside the dash area to defeat the programmed key necessity? There are numerous threads where people do that to avoid having to pay for the dealer cost of programming keys as well as the much lower cost of standard key blanks? I realize that this move is not good if you are concerned about security.
 
#46 ·
^^^Not the highest security solution, i used a idatalink skim bypass module with my Vioer install, super easy, wire it up sgsinst your SKIM module, when you program it with your key, it learned/copy the skim signal, after that when remote started it copy and send out that exact signal, works great and doesnt cost to much.
There Are several other skim bypass modules out there also, no need for getho skim bypass key hidden somewhere trick thingy.
 
#50 ·
multmigs said:
yeah but the ghetto way is FREE.... and less complicated wiring I was just asking did anyone do it yet?
Its not recomended, just saying,
maybe why not many did it,
a bypass module is like 50 or something, it only have a couple of wires,
Its all up to you.
 
#56 ·
I started install today,but will have to finish tomorrow since I need a ground connector. Fairly easy. Only thing I was concerned about was the length of antenna but I just ended up taking the driver door pilllar cover off and mounted to pillar. I ended up have like 2 ft of extra wire which I just rolled up and zip tied it. The other concern is if the on/off toggle switch should be installed doesnt seem relevant so well see.

This is a great write up, easier than manufacturer.
 
#57 ·
I couldn't get my Jeep to work with this for some reason so I ended up W2W method as outlined here:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130244#649534
It was only a few extra wires:

This info will be specific for the 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the Avital 4103. Your 4103
might be a newer model than the shown connector listing but the wire name and color will be
the same.

Avital Jeep or DBALL ( or Both )
H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM N.U. (Not Used)
H1/2 GREEN/WHITE FACTORY REARM N.U.
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) N.U.
H1/4 WHITE/BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT N.U.
H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED N.U.
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT Optional Gray/Orange @ Horn Switch
H1/7 RED/WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT N.U.
H1/8 BLACK GROUND Chassis Ground
H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH ***Set to (+)*** DBALL 10 Pin, Pink/white

1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT DBALL 10 Pin, Blue/White
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT N.U.
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT N.U.
4 PINK (-) STARTER OUTPUT N.U.

1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) IGNITION CIRCUIT Dark Blue @ Ignition Harness & DBALL 10 Pin, Pink
2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) STARTER CIRCUIT Yellow @ Ignition Harness & DBALL 10 Pin, Violet
3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) ACCESSORY CIRCUIT Red/Black @ Ignition Harness
4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT Red @ Ignition Harness
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMED FOR ACCESSORY Black/Orange @ Ignition Harness
6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT Pink/Black @ Ignition Harness

1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT DBALL 10 Pin, Blue
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT DBALL 10 Pin, Green

H2/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT Chassis Ground
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE DBALL 12 Pin, Violet/White
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE DBALL 12 Pin, Gray
H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE Hood Pin Switch
H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOG OUT N.U.

DBALL
14 Pin
Violet/Yellow Jeep OBD2 Pin 2
Yellow Jeep Sentry Module Pin 3, Dark Blue/White, Car Side
Orange/Yellow Jeep Sentry Module Pin 3, Dark Blue/White, Connector side
Red Jeep Pink/Black @ Ignition Harness
Black Jeep Chassis Ground

12 Pin
Violet/Green & Violet Brown Jeep Headlight Switch Connector, Pin 11, Yellow

The Avital has no use for the Door and Trunk Status Triggers.
 
#59 ·
ezflip said:
What is W2W?

I just ordered an Avital 5303. Most of it should be the same with the addition of the security features which I may or may not use. I got a great deal on it and it has an LCD 2-way remote :2thumbsup:
Wire 2 wire
 
#60 ·
I didn't read through four pages... Quick question, would an aftermarket key FOB still work with my memory seats? My remote sets the memory seat to position 1, and the other remote sets the memory seat to position 2 for my wife. I read that I can buy a remote start kit and use my factory remotes, I was just wondering about the new FOB's. Thanks.
 
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