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Fallon (and Dad) Novice Build Thread- '90 Cherry-Okee XJ - Input welcome!

47K views 379 replies 46 participants last post by  Skerr 
#1 ·
Some of you have already visited my thread titled "Feeler"... when I was looking for an XJ for my son. Thanks for your help and comments. I figured I'd better start our thread now, rather than pile up a bunch of redundant stuff on a thread that shouldn't have lived for 3 pages! So this will be our data-collection site for the duration of this build. Fallon is my son. He is 13. He helped his older brother and I complete a 3 year long CJ5 resto/build, and he got the bug. But he likes Cherokees. Or Cherry-Okees, as he USED to call them! This isn't going to be much at first. I have a lot of XJ research to do, plus I have a CJ7 that I need to complete at the same time. But Fallon (or Fal, rhymes with Hal) will be pulling his own wrenches and providing the motivation. Our goal is to put 33 x 10.5 tires under it, whatever lift is needed to properly clear, some body mods, some paint, bumpers, cage, seats, and maybe some axle work. No rock crawling here, but woods, sand, mud, and water. Not building a basher/beater. This will have good road manners but capable of diving off the highway when he feels like it.

So... a 1990, 4.0L, auto, 4x4, AWD, 227,000, rattling timing chain, zero shocks, flat springs, some rust holes, runs/drives well, leaks perfectly, and needs TLC. I really have no idea what I've got, only that it looked good, started quickly, drove well, stopped well, and I thought it was worth the grand that Fal paid. I haven't determined axles, ratios, tranny/Tcase, or anything. I don't even know what options were available for drivetrain. I DO know it does not have the D44... bummer.

All doors close tight, no slop. Glass is all good. Tires have tread, but dry rot is starting. I like the factory rims... probably keep them, maybe. Needs weatherstripping all around. Some rust holes in areas around the roof rack and around the bottom corners of the windshield. The WS rust scares me a little. How is that for ease of repair? What do ya'll commonly do there?

Tranny shifts alright. Engine accelerates alright. Lots of stuff under the hood. What can I get rid of? No emissions here.

PO changed the oil before I bought it. I drove it ~120 miles home @65MPH. The oil is still clear. Like new clear! I feel like it should be a little discolored considering the cheap battery and oil filter the PO used... he probably used cheap oil too.

Besides the rust spots and bad shocks, where do I start?

Pics to follow...
 

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#7 ·
Thanks, Guys, for your support. Turtle mentioned Bastard Packs in my introductory thread. I Googled that and discovered what it is. Forgive me for being CJ-oriented (I have three), but I know on a CJ you can swap springs with other vehicle (YJ, for example) and increase lift and ride quality. Is there a straightforward spring swap for XJs, or do you have to alternate S10 springs with the Bastard Pack? Is it a good, inexpensive alternative to buying a lift? Do I need 6" to clear 33s?
 
#8 ·
After reading Clay's build thread, how could one not follow this one as well. I too think the father & son builds you do are way cool. My dad and I replaced the motor on my first car (87 Maxima), so not as cool as a CJ or XJ, but still very good times and memories.

Looks like a decent starter vehicle for a build. Good luck as you get going!:thumbsup:
 
#9 ·
After reading Clay's build thread, how could one not follow this one as well. I too think the father & son builds you do are way cool. My dad and I replaced the motor on my first car (87 Maxima), so not as cool as a CJ or XJ, but still very good times and memories.

Looks like a decent starter vehicle for a build. Good luck as you get going!:thumbsup:
Thanks, J. Both my folks are gone now, so I'm the REAL Dad! Anything you can do with your dad is a privilege and a bonus in life. I am looking forward to the good times with Fal. Glad for you to follow along.

Going over Fal's XJ this morning, we discovered the tranny is bone dry! I suppose that could have something to do with the shifting issues!? :rolleyes: God must have really been watching over us to drive this thing back from J'ville at night, without having gone over it from top to bottom! PO had a screwdriver stuck down between tranny cooler and radiator... we removed that. I was wondering if it was placed there on purpose, but it apparently was dropped and got lost! So a free screwdriver!

When Fal discovered the back seat folded down he called everybody outside to see! Cracked me up!!!!

Probably going to put shocks on it and let wifey use it around town. She is really, really liking this thing. I wasn't expecting that! She wants to sell the Astro and get one for herself. That is going to screw up my engine swap for my 7!
 
#10 ·
should be able to clear 33x10.50 with a 4.5,may have to do some minor trimming.i have a rough country 4.5" with 15x8" rims 4.5" bs and 32x11.50 mud tires and i barely rub but i had to extend bumpstops.it looks like a great start to a good jeep,i like the color
 
#16 ·
Can anyone confirm these parts for me? I was doing some research, and I think this is what we have as far as drivetrain.

Front Axle- HP D30
Rear Axle- D35 C-Clip, 3.73 gears
AW4 tranny (Novak says it's okay, but not great- what are my options?)
NP231 Tcase

I have a tranny cooler in front of the radiator, a hitch, and the plug-in for towing on the bumper. Does this mean I have the tow package? If so, then I have 3.73 gears. If not, then probably 3.55.
 
#17 ·
Can anyone confirm these parts for me? I was doing some research, and I think this is what we have as far as drivetrain.

Front Axle- HP D30
Rear Axle- D35 C-Clip, 3.73 gears
AW4 tranny (Novak says it's okay, but not great- what are my options?)
NP231 Tcase

I have a tranny cooler in front of the radiator, a hitch, and the plug-in for towing on the bumper. Does this mean I have the tow package? If so, then I have 3.73 gears. If not, then probably 3.55.
Don't worry about the AW4 it's probably the most reliable automatic transmission Jeep has used in the last 20 years (with the possible exception of the Daimler transmissions in newer Jeeps) and is definitely the best automatic mated to the 4.0L I6, the others of that era were the Chrysler TF999, 32RH, 42RH/RE, and 42RLE. The old 3 speed torque flights (TF999, 32RH) are reliable but horribly inefficient, the 42RH/RE lacks reliability, and the 42RLE is a complete piece of garbage like the rest of the ultra-drive series lacking performance and reliability, and is derived from an front-wheel-drive car transmission the 42LE from the LH cars (Chrysler Concorde/ Dodge Intrepid).

The AW4 is basically identical to the A340 used in 4Runners and Toyota trucks but with different electronics to interface with the AMC/Chrysler PCM. The only real flaw with the AW4 is that it is inefficient but so are most other early electronic automatics and non-electronic autos are even worse but the 4.0L I6 has more than enough power to move an XJ so losing a little bit of it to the transmission isn't a big deal. Unless you really want a manual leave it and just make sure to change the fluid on schedule and use DexronIII/Mercon (since this is an Aisin transmission it does not use ATF+4 like most Chrysler transmissions do). On the off chance it fails you can get a used one with less than 100k mi on it for around $300.

If it is AWD (Has a full time setting) as stated in the first post the transfer case is an NP242, the 231 is 4WD (Part time only).

The front axle in all XJs is the D30, HP 1999 and older, LP 2000-2001.

You can tell which rear axle it has based on shape, the D35 is oval, the Chrysler 8.25" has a flat top and bottom, the Dana 44 has flat sides and is non-symmetrical when split down the middle (curve is higher/lower on left side when looking from behind). The Chrysler 8.25" and Dana 44 are much stronger than the Dana 35 and would be recommended for 33" or 35" tires but the D35 is sufficient for the stock configuration.
 
#19 ·
Yeah, yeah, I know... too many questions! Sorry, Guys. I'm trying to get answers the short way. I just don't have hours to sit in front of the computer to get all of the info I need/want, so I'm coming to the experts.

I have a line on a suspension lift at the JY. The owner said he would pull the lift for $50, or the lift and rear axle for $200. We are headed there now to confirm that this Cherokee does, indeed, have lift springs.

My question... here is the pic of the rear axle of Fallon's XJ. Is this the poor D35 C-Clip rear end, or is this the Chrysler? I don't want to buy the rear end if it is not an upgrade.

Thanks
 

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#20 ·
The JY suspension lift turned out to be lift blocks under factory springs, so I didn't get it. We did, however, find a good rear view mirror, hand hold for inside the cab, and the rubber tubing for the PCV system. So it wasn't a total loss of day. Plus, we stopped and got some tranny fluid and new shocks. Tranny shifts like a charm now!
 
#21 ·
Just some pics...

Has anyone ever repaired the rust under the windshield? How did you do it?
 

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#26 ·
Quite an honor to have you join us. Thank you, Sir... or Ma'am! :D

New shocks, GabrielPro, make a WORLD of difference! My God... so sweet to drive. Smooth. And FAST! Dang, I like this 4.0.

I think we'll build a roof rack next, encompassing the rust that has formed up top. Probably use square tubing, but not a for-sure thing. Gotta find someone who can make the corners for us. Anybody use the the HF bender for small stock/square tubing with success? I have already been there with the roll cage on the CJ, trying to bend DOM tubing.
 
#28 ·
Got a little side-tracked! My youngest are active in 4-H, and they will be showing hogs in the county fair in January. Here are some pics of the pigs we picked up today and of the boys prepping the pen. Just some fun stuff if anybody is interested...
 

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#29 ·
We finished cutting out and welding up the rust holes in the roof. The patches are okay, but they sure warped a TON! I'm guessing I can smooth them out once I remove the headliner. I plan to build and install some kind of rack on top, and my mental picture includes a foot that will cover these areas, so I'm not TOO concerned. Yet, you know how plans change...

Is there a trick to removing the hinges for the lift gate? I have some rust there too, and I don't want to ruin the covers by experimenting.
 

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#30 ·
Injector Swap

I spent about 4 hours at the JY yesterday with the idea of pulling Neon injectors for the 4.0L swap. There is a ton of info about this swap, and I, apparently, had it swimming around in my head! The JY owner had 3 Neons, but only one had an engine. I easily pulled those injectors and I moved to the Stratus sitting next to it. It had the same 2.0L engine, so I pulled those injectors only to find they are single ported (one hole for atomization). So I left them there. I looked around for a 5.0 Ford, but I saw a line of Taurus cars. I have the impression that the injectors from the 3.0L Taurus is the Coup de Gras, and I went after them. I had to remove the plenum on top of the engine to get at the injectors. It took awhile, but Hey, if you want the good stuff, you have to work for it... right? I managed to remove the first fuel rail only to find that these injectors, also, were single ported. Bummer! A total waste of time! So I went over to one of the dozen or so Cherokees sitting in the yard. I wanted a spare fuel rail. The 2nd XJ I checked still had one, with injectors, so I pulled it. I was thinking that these factory injectors would be better than what is on my son's XJ as he has a leak or two. I got out of there with 10 injectors and a fuel rail for $40, which I thought was outstanding!

And that brings us to this morning. I was going to change out the leaking injector (it leaks badly) with one of the XJ injectors on the fuel rail. I thought I would take pics for your viewing pleasure! But guess what? Total bust. Wrong connectors!! So I need to go back and read again. Here's the pics.

Neon injectors that I pulled.


Close up of the numbers.


Wrong connector! This is USCAR type. I didn't notice this.


Fuel rail from 4.0L with factory injectors.


Just a close up of the XJ injectors...


Showing the single port for atomization. Still XJ.


I'm betting this XJ ran poorly!!


This is also the USCAR connector. I need to go back and determine what year this changed. Plain stupid!


Fuel rail on my son's XJ. PB wouldn't let me rotate the pic!! Grrr...


This is number 4 from the front. It leaks like a sieve! I wanted to at least change this out.


Jet tronics/mini timer connector... what I have on the '90 XJ.


A comparison of the two together.
JT/MT

USCAR


Back to the drawing board!
 
#31 ·
#32 ·
Dude, if you followed Clay's build, front to back, you hung in there a LONG time! I appreciate it. You should also know how many mistakes I made!! :eek: Already starting with mistakes on the Cherokee. Live and learn...

Thanks for the link. Right off the get-go I see I had some injectors in my hand that might have worked (from the thread)... If you go with a Dodge injector there are a couple that will fit and the Denso injectors that are in some Dodges run really well with even a single pintle nozzle. Now I have to check to see if it was a 4 or 6 cyl engine I pulled these from. I saw a single pintle so I left them laying on top of the engine!

Just for reference... I checkled fuel pressure today.
Renix system, 4.0L, 1990, 227,xxx miles, leaking injectors... 32 PSI with engine running. Pretty much nada with ignition on-engine off.
 
#35 ·
I went back to the JY today to see if I could get some injectors from a different donor car. I copied the list of vehicles from the previous link and took it with me. When I asked the JY owner where I could find these cars (mostly Fords) he told me I could not pull the injectors! He said he has too many with good motors, so they were off limits. He told me to stick with the Chryslers. The problem with that is there are no donors cars. So I went back to the Taurus I pulled the injectors from. I had gone through all the work only to find that they were a sinle pintle injector, so I left them there. After reading one of the links posted above I learned that the Denso single pintle injectors could be very good, and that's what these were, so I snagged them! I'm sure I will have to mess around with fuel pressure (Fal's XJ only pumping 32psi), but that's down the road a piece.

I also went back to the Cherokee section to see what else I could get for ours, and I learned that the JY owner had crushed 4 of them!!!!! HOLY CRAP!!!! So I am in some seriously slim pickings! I snagged an overhead console from a ZJ and some side mirrors with the adjustable stems from a mid-90s XJ. I also got some better looking visors.

Does anyone know if the ZJ OH console will plug and play? I assume it is a compass? Clock? Everything for $40.

The S10 P/U is the donor for the leaf packs so we can start our bastard pack lift.


Hmmm... pics ain't posting correctly!
 

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#36 ·
I don't know why I'm having such a dad-goned problem getting the right injector, but I have just learned that these won't work! I guess I just blank out when I see an engine! I spoke with Bill Johnson, owner of Mr. Injector, and he spent a fair amount of time with me on the phone. He said these injectors will only produce 14 lbs/hr, and they are too light for my application.

So I am plugging Mr. Injector of Idaho. Bill Johnson is very pleasant, knowledgeable, and friendly. He has the rebuild kits and knowledge you might need.

http://www.mrinjectorparts.com/index.html

Mr Injector / Bill Johnson
6280 N Government Way #4
Dalton Gardens, Idaho 83815
208-762-3450

Back to the drawing board.
 
#37 ·
Look in the Budget Builds: What Junkyard Parts will fit an XJ ( or something like that?)

And buy Shackle relocation brackets and longer shackles. Your spine will thank you.

You can get the shackles from a 95-99 Chevy Fullsize truck i believe. Its all in that thread.

And i forgot who makes the shackle brackets but people love them and say how much better the ride and flex is with them.
 
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