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Help with my new Rubicon

6K views 41 replies 21 participants last post by  Spaschal 
#1 ·
I just bought a 2013 Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited. It is being shipped to me from the factory and before it gets here I want to have everything that I want done to it sorted. My plan is to drive it from the dealership to the shop and have them give it back to me when it's completed and ready to go. My dilemma is that I don't have much experience in the realm of vehicle modifications, especially to this extent. It doesn't have to be able to climb Everest but I'd like it to be built in a way that it'll do pretty much whatever I ask it to. However, the jeep will still be my primary vehicle. So, I'll be driving it to work, around town, the occasional 3 hour trip to see my brother who is in university, and to whatever off road park or mud pit I happen to find. So, highway ride comfort is paramount. With that being said I don't want to sacrifice off-road capability. I love off-roading and have been doing it for a while now. This is just the first time I've bought a vehicle new and done everything myself. I bought previous vehicles already modified, so I don't mean that I'll do the actual labor. I'll leave that to someone smarter than me. In a nutshell, I want the thing to be like a tank but still ride and handle like a normal vehicle should. I may be asking for the moon here but that's what I'm going for. It's all about finding that magical point where it's all in balance.
Now that I've given an overview of what I'm going for, let's get down to the nuts and bolts. Straight from the dealer I'm looking to modify my front and rear bumper, winch, fender flares, skid plates, lift, tires, shocks, lighting, intake, exhaust, and a few other odds and ends such as window tinting and the like. The first three items are fairly straight forward in that a winch is a winch is a winch and the bumpers and fender flares are, aside from doing what they all do, more or less based on aesthetic appeal. Regardless, any comments on those items would be greatly appreciated. While I haven't made a final decision on the bumpers. I'll probably go with the WARN PowerPlant Dual Force HP 9500LB Winch and the bushwhacker flat style fender flares. Skid plates are pretty straight forward as well I know but, is there any specific package out there what I could just buy that would cover everything that needs to be covered? As for the lift I don't know what would be best either. I'm looking to get 35" tires. For the lift I wouldn't want to do anything less than a 3" lift and probably no more than a 4.5". I'll stress that balance between off-road capability and ride comfort. If I had to sacrifice one by just a wee bit it would be ride comfort. I'm willing let the scale tilt toward off-road capability but not by much (I hope I'm making sense). On the topic of a lift my question is not only what size lift I should get but also what is the best lift out there for me. My budget for the whole project is about $11,000 give or take a bit not counting labor (I've got all that sorted). My point being that I don't want to skimp on the lift at all. I don't need some off-road rally championship lift. Or do I? I don't know what I need here. I don't want to waste my money on something that I don't need. Obviously, the more I can save the better. But, I don't want to look back later and say I could have spent $300 more and had the best lift. It's all about do it right the first time and not having any regrets about the way I did it. The lift also makes you start thinking about suspension/shocks. What's all that about? Do I need to change my suspension? If I do what exactly do I need? This is another area that I don't want to skimp on. I want something that's going to do it's job well and last. But again, I don't want to waste my money on something frivolous. I'm completely in the dark on that one so any advice there would help. As far as tires go I have a pretty good idea of what I want. I was thinking Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ Radial Traditional Light Truck 315/70 R17 8-Ply. But, if anyone has any first hand experience and you think that another tire would be better then I'm all ears. Again, looking for that balance here. I would like to point out that when I say balance I mean it in more of an existential way. The jeep needs to be in harmony. I want it to do two jobs. I want it to get me to work/be a comfortable ride for me and my passengers on a trip and I want it to be able to traverse just about any terrain I ask it to within reason (it's not a swamp bogger). And, I want it to do both of those jobs to the absolute best of it's ability. So wherever those two meet is the balance I'm talking about. But then take one step to the right (the right being the side of off-road performance) and that is exactly what I'm looking for. I hope that clarified a bit or even made sense. I know this is probably becoming exhausting to read but please bare with me. You can't possibly image how much I value the opinions of what I'm considering to be the experts on the matter. Mostly because I'm assuming that you guys know more about all this than I do. So hang in there please, I'm almost done. For lighting I want to put two lights down on the front bumper and then two more on the windscreen. My question here is, what type of light should I get and where should I put them (i.e. fog lights, driving lights, etc.)? I want to be able to turn night into day essentially. The second question there is what brand of lights should I get? Lastly, air intake and the exhaust systems. I think I want to put in a cold air intake immediately. I've read that it can add 12HP and improve fuel efficiency. So that seems good. Which intake is best or will get the job done? Also, should I consider a snorkel? Apart from the obvious benefits, is there anything else that a snorkel would help me with? Would I need to get a snorkel and a cold air intake or is the snorkel just it's own system? I'm in the dark on this one too. I've been told you can spend silly amount of money on intake systems and have paid $300 less and have the same improvements and benefits of the more expensive system. So what's up there? What do I really need? Like I said earlier, I want to have the best but not at the risk of just throwing money away. As for the exhaust system, I literally know nothing. All I know to say is that when it's done I want a pretty hawse sound but not so much that it's annoying to my passengers or myself on a drive. It needs to be intense but not obnoxious. That being said what do I need to do there. What systems would give me that sound (they all sound good at the end of the day) and give me some performance enhancements as well (I'm just assuming here at the risk of showing my true ignorance on the topic that different exhaust systems give different enhancements or even any enhancements at all). I also know that I don't want straight pipes. I don't really know what that means. I'm assuming that pipes are just straight from the engine to out the rear end but again I have no idea. My cousin has straight pipes on his truck and while that's cool for him, they weren't exactly my style. Also, I should give a reminder that I will be using the jeep (as all jeep owners should) for it's unintended purpose. That being said I don't need or want some super flashy "pimp my ride" exhaust pipes that shoot flaming balls of glitter and bling out the end. I want a system that makes that sound and aren't going to be messed up when everything inevitably comes crashing down on a boulder, bashed on a fallen tree, or dug into the earth in a mud pit. I don't want to spend money fixing some fancy tail pipe just because it wasn't designed for off road use. Now if I can get that performance and sound out of a specific exhaust system and it just looks like a normal exhaust system then fine. It doesn't matter. If I can get all that with one that looks good even better (still don't want those pipes that shoot out shinning wheels of light and say "hey look at me I'm a massive cock"). However, I do tend to like those systems with a twin exhaust. Whatever that means. Not too flashy though. I'm just not a flashy person. I'm more reserved but I always get the job done without much of a fuss; I want my jeep to reflect that personality. That's about all I have. I also wanted to ask about other random performance enhancers. Specifically engine performance parts like throttle body spacers and the like. I have no idea what that means or what they do. Are they necessary for a more intense experience and if they are, exactly what should I get? The only other thing I would ask is have I missed anything at all? Is there some other big picture item that I'm missing? Or, is there any small piece of the puzzle that would really just tie everything together in a nice little bow? Again, I want to hand the jeep to the shop and tell them EXACTLY what I want and have them do it. But, I don't want to muck it up. I don't want to do all of these things to the jeep just to find out that I didn't do it right and end up spending 11k and have a jeep that isn't going to perform well, have a bad ride, or just not be what I wanted it to be. I'm really set on trying to do all these modifications in one go so I can be done with it and not be riding with it half way done. So, the more input I can get on the matter the better. So if I've overlooked something big or small please let me know. Remember I'm fairly new to the modification side of all this so assume for now that I'm completely daft. Thanks everyone.
 
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#2 ·
Didn't read allow it. But a 4" lift is $$$ I hope you know that. At that height you are going to want long arms, and are going to want new DS F/R. So all that is already up to about 4500-5k. Then that much lift will look kinda funny without 37s. So then you have to beef up your axles which is another money pit. So lets go with 1800 for tires and 1500 for axle reinforcement. That's 7800. Then you are going to want a regear. So add another 1500. Now your up to 9300. Then you new a rear bumper and tire carrier. That's at least 1k. And then front bumper with winch is 500 for bumper and 900? For winch. That's 11k. And that's buying cheap stuff.. It will prob ly cost more than that.

Tldr. Your going to want long arms at 4" of lift. And aftermarket DS F/R.. And I would stay at 2.5-3" of lift and with flats you could still run 37s.
 
#3 ·
Now that has to be the mother of all posts, ever. captain58, your post is beyond the realm of ridiculously long and just one paragraph to boot that there is no way in hell I'll be reading it. Kudus to MrSmiley for giving it a go.:laugh:

In the future please, if you must, condense what you have to say so it is at least readable. This is in no way a requirement of this forum or as a moderator but just a personal suggestion/plea from me, one guy to the next.
:cheers2:
 
#7 ·
I'll admit I got carried away. So let me do this one step at a time. I want 35" tires. What kind of lift kit would you guys recommend? I'm looking at 3.5" to 4" lift. Would that even look normal? Note that I want it to sit up enough to clear just about everything but I don't want to sacrifice to much handling or on road ride comfort. Moreover, what other considerations should I take into account when lifting and adding bigger tires?
 
#9 ·
captain58 said:
I'll admit I got carried away. So let me do this one step at a time. I want 35" tires. What kind of lift kit would you guys recommend? I'm looking at 3.5" to 4" lift. Would that even look normal? Note that I want it to sit up enough to clear just about everything but I don't want to sacrifice to much handling or on road ride comfort. Moreover, what other considerations should I take into account when lifting and adding bigger tires?
Did you not ready my post? Or was it to long? :D but me personally I would go with 2.5" of lift with 35s and flats. That will be the cheaper route. Because then you willingly have to replace the front DS. But you are also going to need exhaust spacers. Now for the lift if you have the money I would get a RK X-Factor with 2.5" coils.. That or buy a currie system with anti rock front and rear and swap the coils for either AEV or RK coils. Hope that makes sense. If not feel free to ask questions.
 
#10 ·
Try the Stickies section. You will find 100's of pages of jeeps with all sorts of lifts and there is a thread which is called the definitive lift thread. This one will tell you all that you might ever need to know about what is needed for each lift and what it is best suited for. Again, in the stickies. Best of luck.
 
#16 ·
SubAtomicGenius said:
Lol, hate the game, not the player!

Seriously, though - you can run 35's on 2.5" to 3" lift. That being said, the stock Rubi is quite capable on its own. If you have the time, money and interest, however - I'd highly recommend a 2.5" to 3" lift and 35's.
No hate, jealousy!!!

And to add to the lift you will need bumpers and flat fenders.
 
#17 ·
Yeah. I just wanted to make sure that the 35's wouldn't limit my flex. Also I had a stock rubicon for the past 5 years. I put it through its paces and it did really well. But I never modified it in any way which is probably why I'm so eager to just go ahead and do this one right straight from the factory.
 
#19 ·
Personally I would go with a lift around 3.5-inches just for the fact of getting the belly high enough to clear obstacles on moderate to difficult trails. The Unlimited's have a very long wheelbase and the break-over angle is a serious limiting factor, Rubicon or not.

It's not so much as what looks "silly" it's about what works. As for what lift to get, well I say to do the research and then pic your poison. You'll get all kinds of suggestions as to what's the best lift for you so without researching on your own you really learn nothing.

As already mentioned, yes, the higher you lift the more you'll need to address and spend ($) to do it right, but that's the price you pay if you want to play.
:cheers2:
 
#20 ·
My dad got a 2012 Rubi 2DR this summer, 6spd and all the kit and kaboodle. I thought it ran sweet compared to my '08 Wrangler X, and three weeks ago, we put the AEV Dualsport 2.5" lift with the front drop brackets. For wheels and tires, He went for 35" BF Goodrich AT/KO's, and you would not BELIEVE how well, and how much better this thing rides. I would highly recommend this lift. Also, the guys at AEV were super helpful, even with choosing which 35" tire would stick out the least from the fenders. PM me if you have any questions, I'd love to have someone else experience how awesome that setup is.
 
#21 ·
Don't need to reinforce axles for 35's, also don't need to regear for 35's if you got 410's. I would recommend heavy duty axle shafts. I bent one with 33's. I am going with aev 4.5 with 35's. Reason being i want the better breakover angle for where i wheel. I'm keeping factory fenders though and it would look weird with flats and 35's. You also dont need long arms. Im going aev because mine is also a dd and what you get the price isn't too bad and tested on road performance. Also ds would help but not needed right away just exhaust mod. Unless your loaded then go ahead.

My $.02
 
#22 ·
Rock Krawler 3.5" (you actually get a lot more and you can mod as you go)
35" tires-be sure you can pick one up first, dang things are heavy
Rock Hard Skids and bumpers
Truck lights
VisionX fogs-won't need extra lighting with these puppies
Bilstein shocks

Gearing-I disagree with one of the posters- get 5:38's if you are an auto, 4:88's if you are a manual and be done with it.

Do all this and you will have one sweet rig.

Am with the others... post too long. Men normally suffer from ADD unless certain things or beverages are placed in front of us. Way we are wired, well, most of us.

OH, power plant. Don't mess around, you want more power? Get an S/C and call it good. Two or three on the market, all around the same performance.
 
#24 ·
A lift will not give you any more flex then the stock suspension will with the exception of a longer travel shock that will give you a couple more inches of droop over the factory length shocks. If you want more flex then that you will need to make some pretty major modifications including cutting the frame. You should size your lift so that you just clear your tires, any more is just for show unless you tend to get high centered often, and that can be corrected by learning how to drive. You can get by pretty easy and cheap with a lift up to about 2.5", once you start going over that things start to add up fast and the expense rises quickly.

Flat fenders will give you the look of a 3"-4" lift without messing with the suspension geometry and will give you clearance for 35" tires that are mounted on wheels with proper bs and mb some extended bump stops.
 
#25 ·
I completely dissagree with running 5.38's on an auto. The 12 and 13 have different trannys and and if you take it on the highway youll be running 3500 rpms. My buddy started at 3.21 on a 6 speed and went to 4.56 just cause he was regearing anyways. 410's is plenty and you still have a 4-1 tcase for low end. Another note on the bumpers. Flat fenders look stupid with full size bumpers. Consider a stubby. I have a 2 inch lift with 33's and i scrape all the time. Stock skids have dents all over them. Depends on where YOU wheel for lift choice.
 
#26 ·
thedirtman said:
A lift will not give you any more flex then the stock suspension will
I completely disagree with this. If a lift doesn't increase articulation that why do people lift there vehicles, and why do people get MORE flex out of a lifted vehicle that with a none lifted vehicle. In that case, why do C/O offer more suspension travel than a stock suspension set up does. Your statement is not true.
 
#29 ·
You lift your jeep so you can fit bigger tires. Some lift for the show off factor. Adding a lift can actually cause you to lose articulation if not done properly.
Simply adding longer travel shocks will increase the articulation, thats about it.

You are limited by how much your axle can stuff before components hit the frame or tires completely stuff into the fender. You are limited on down travel by your driveshaft making contact with the exhaust and crossmember. This amount of travel stays the same no matter what lift you have on. Increasing bump stop length will decrease the total amount of travel you have. If you lift your jeep 4" you loose 4" of down travel so the total amount of articulation stays the same.

Changing to adjustable control arms with a heim type joint will allow for less bind in your suspension during articulation. Some will call this an increase in flex.

Coil overs will give you a bit more articulation only if you are using a 10"-12" travel shock vs the stock suspension articulation. A 12" travel shock should max out the down travel on the front axle. They do make it easier to dial in your suspension to maximize the potential travel.
 
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