Had to install a new drag link today, so I figured while I had the steering apart why not upgrade something. So I decided to do the tie rod flip since it was easy to do and fairly cheap. I looked around and there were a few threads on it. I took pics as always for my build figured throw some more info out there for others.
There seemed to be a few places to pick these up and they all run about the same price. I went with the one off of Mr. Blaine's black magic brakes coop section: Part came in about a week.
The knuckle has to be drilled out to 3/4". Picked up a new bit since I didnt have that size. $32 at true value....The most expensive part of the mod. I tacked the insert in just for good mesure.
The stock sway bar mount does have to be cut off. I havent run a front sway bar for a bout a year anyway but once I pick up an antirock Ill also be picking up the relocation bracket off the blackmagic site as well.
Once insert is in and securer just rotate TRE and mount upside down. IT uses the same style nut as used on JK steering eliminating the PITA castle nut and cotter pins. Be sure to check alingment once your finished. Half a turn may not make a world of difference but its good to be thorough.
That's all there was to it. That extra bit of clearance will make a big difference especially when playin in the rocks. Heading up to CT to test it out tomorrow...
Passenger's side is challenging. First, look at the bends in the draglink. How do you make those work if you flip it? Can you reverse the bends? Well, actually with a RHD draglink you can but still not straightforward. OK, no what do you do about the trackbar to avoid bumpsteer. Last, cycle it all and see where else you've created interfence.
The way the tie rod crosses the front and connects to the draglink by flipping the driver's side you get extra clearance pretty much all the way across the tie rod.
One thing that I didn't see mentioned is that you can only do this if you have wheels with less backspacing (probably 4" or less to be sure). On the bottom of the steering knuckle arm puts the TRE in the widest part of the wheel. When you flip to the top TRE in a much narrower part of the wheel. If you tried to do with say stock wheels (5.5") going to have interference issues there.
No, that's not an issue. The two components that need to be parallel are the trackbar and drag link... the tie rod isn't part of that parallel relationship requirement.
I'm about to install this onto my 04 TJ with 15x8 wheels with 4" of backspacing. Without having taken any exact measurements the space between the flipped TRE and the wheel looks like it would be extremely tight, if it fits at all.
For my own sanity, can someone post a picture of this installed with a 15" wheel with 4" or more of backspacing? superwade posted a picture, but its pretty far away.
I'm about to install this onto my 04 TJ with 15x8 wheels with 4" of backspacing. Without having taken any exact measurements the space between the flipped TRE and the wheel looks like it would be extremely tight, if it fits at all.
For my own sanity, can someone post a picture of this installed with a 15" wheel with 4" or more of backspacing? superwade posted a picture, but its pretty far away.
P.S.Don't give me a hard time about the Axle fluid on the tire... It's just a little residual "drippage" from the last time I had my axles out and doing jack stand gymnastics to get my control arms re-installed. I've only driven a few miles in the last few months and haven't cleaned the rig in months.
P.S.Don't give me a hard time about the Axle fluid on the tire... It's just a little residual "drippage" from the last time I had my axles out and doing jack stand gymnastics to get my control arms re-installed. I've only driven a few miles in the last few months and haven't cleaned the rig in months.
I see that you used a castle nut and cotter pin vs the supplied "jk" style TRE nut. Any reason for this? Peace of mind? Different flip kit using a reamer?
Yes, I don't have the exact Flip Kit insert that is now being sold on the BlackMagicBrakes.Com site. Blaine did mine a couple years ago and so I'm using the stock castle nut that came with the Currie Steering/Savvy Ultimate Tie Rod.
As he stated, I have special inserts that I have made for me that have a shoulder on them. I use a special set of reamers and bits so I can press them in and then weld them top and bottom.
Could/should I weld the insert into the knuckle? Or are these better suited to be held in with the TRE once tightened down? I have the kit mentioned above from your co op
Sorry to bump an old thread. I figure it's better than making a new one. Is there a possibility to trim the sway bar bracket to retain it? I do a lot of hwy trips to the mountain, so I figure I should keep it.
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