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How To DIY Full Length TJ Trunk

21K views 27 replies 13 participants last post by  bbradUSMC 
#1 ·
TJ Full Trunk



Decided that before I head back down to school, which is in Las Cruces, NM. Just under an hour to Juarez and thought the jeep needed a few security updates. First was a DIY version of the classic ADE theft system. Next came a Tuffy Hood Lock. (Mainly cause my AC compressor was stolen last year).

Lastly came a secure/safe trunk. I rarely hold people in the back of the jeep, especially at college, so a full length trunk is the solution.

Design wise, I disliked the tonneau cover look; because then the space above the fender wells are useless, depending on the height of the trunk. My design goes to the full height of the tailgate but leaves the sides open for stuff aswell. Also the "front" side of the box is slanted at about 15 degrees to allow some space for my upper half door sliders. Ubolts were added as tie downs for coolers, luggage ect.

This design gives an approximate inner space of 33" Deep, 34" Wide, and 15" tall.

Materials:
One Sheet of MDF board
Roll of carpet 52" x 70"
2" Wood Screws
4 5/16" bolts are needed, about 1.5" long
Wood glue
Couple of ripped 2x4s which end up being 1.5" x 1.5"
Table saw and Chop saw and Jig saw
Exacto Blades
Total Cost was about $70 from Lowes.
Some solidworks drawings. These are extremely close, but some tweaking may be needed.







Started taking some basic measurements, and cut my side panels and braces
All of these are pilot drilled and wood glued.


2 Panels Completed


Sides meet front panel



Top on



Test fit for notches and mounting holes, I just slid it as far as it would come, then took measurements with a tape measure and marked for clearance. Added ¼" for carpet thickness.
For the mounting holes I used the 2 5/16"-18 holes. And match drilled them after I cut the notches and it was in its final position. 4 5/16" bolts are needed, about 1.5" long


Notches cut and sanded.


Picture showing the angle, about 15 degrees.


Epoxy for glue and seal of the board. Had this from an old project, sets in 6 hours or something. Cost of these 2 new are about $100, so not cheap. I used this more for sealing the MDF and less for glue. Probably could substitute Polyurethane.


My dad applying epoxy to the outside after the carpet had been test fit and cut to shape.


Applying scotchgard to the carpet, who knows if it does anything but can't hurt.


Done



Brown is a rubber seal for doors and such. Also will take more pictures in the sunlight.
End result: To be honest I made it a bit high, so the tailgate seal is a bit high but still good and makes the rear window "bar thing" a bit tough to get in.

The drawings are slightly modified to include changes that were needed.
 
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#2 ·
BRplatz

Awesome write up. Thank you for sharing. I did something similar for my LJ, except mine has a lockable pull out drawer and uses the tabs in the bottom of the rear floor to anchor it down. On the top side I installed a set of removable gun racks as I hunt a lot. And I did not make drawings cause if I did no one could read them. Lets just say even my stick figures look menatly challenged.
 
#4 ·
Very cool! I think an enclosed trunk is one of the best mods you can make if you don't carry people/dogs/goblins/whatevers that often. Taking the rear seat out of mine was the smartest thing that I did; a TJ is essentially a two-person rig, and giving yourself extra/secure cargo capacity in the rear is a great way to go!

:thumbsup:
 
#6 ·
You might want to consider some logistic track mounts, then. They're low-profile and very strong; I'm running 24" sections of it on top of my hard deck cover/tire carrier. Here's a link, if you're interested.
 
#8 ·
I've got a half-dozen of the round pucks to go in the bed and - as stated - 24" sections going on the deck cover. The removable nature of the tie-down rings is what makes it so nice; fewer snags and protrusions when they're not needed.
 
#10 ·
jeepjerryp7m8 said:
Very nice. Might build something like that myself. Might hinge and lock the lid though, in case I have to carry something that is a little taller. Nice build.
Jerry
Good call, and with this design a hinge would be cake. Not sure on the lock, but I'm sure it wouldn't be terrible
 
#14 ·
Jeepsr4me said:
How much does it weigh?
Maybe 65 or so pounds. It isn't light.

The 4x8 MDF is 65lbs by itself. We use most of it plus carpet, epoxy, screws and the supports.
 
#20 ·
Sundowner said:
Exactly. If it's a static feature then the weight issue is not nearly as important. Granted, you're adding extra mass to the rig...but I don't see these kind of modifications being very high on the priority list of weight-conscious builders. So in that regard, it simply doesn't matter. Job well done, says I.
I agree, but with the weight added isn't enough more than a backseat and all hardware to make a difference
 
#22 ·
AussieJeeper88 said:
Hey Brplatz, how thick was the MDF board you used, looking at making one for mine, great write up.

cheers
I could go look but I'm and almost positive it was 1/2", i really didn't want that top board to have any give in it
 
#28 ·
Get her a full body harness, relocate the seat belt bracket from the floor the the top of the box then grab a lap belt from a junk yard from a Cherokee and use a caribeener to secure it to the harness. It will keep her from jumping out with the windows off at a Gas station and will allow you to secure or release her quickly.
 
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