To borrow the idea of another member... I thought it would be cool to see what people could do for 100 bucks or less. That's a reasonable amount for most people so let's see what we can list.
I have a set designed so no welding or reclocking needs to take place, and should have adjustability in it to work with TC drops. Been running it in my jeep for the whole spring, lots of 4H and 4L shifting, and not an issue.
The tab from a gm 231 flips the linkage towards the body, instead of towards the ground like our jeeps. The body side arm that is connected to the interior shifter was repositioned. I ground the welds and hammered the arm off the shaft and rewelded it at a 6 o'clock position. The new tc arm and body side arm are now parallel to each other, and I installed a new linkage made from two rod ends and a lenght of threaded rod to maintain adjustibility. When I first installed everything it did not work correctly until I changed the body side arm.
I like that. It looks like those wires could get snagged though. Did you ever think about using a momentary/pressure switch near the hinge that activated when the top was opened?
I had removed the "milk jug" bumper ends for a cleaner look....I think the front looks better, but the rear bumper just appeared too narrow.
My original thought was to mount auxiliary back up lights where the jugs were on the back, then I thought why not just mount them in the jugs.
After a whole lot of cutting and fabricating a couple of brackets this is what it looks like.
Total cost $10 for some Harbor Freight driving lights ....the metal and plastic I already had.
Did not realize there was that big a difference between the 99 jugs and my 98 jugs. Yours are much nicer.
I wouldn't take those rear lights very far off road... :laugh:
I made a set of removable front sway bar disconnects. Buy using a rear lower shock adapter that is found on 00 mustangs or so. The part could be used for a front shock adapter too. I used sway bar links from a wj, they are a double eye style link. And for the lower axle side bolt you use a 12mm grade 8 bolt with the head cut off. Drill a hole cross ways through the bolt for a pin. And double nut the bolt inplace of the factory torx boltz.
And I haven't had them long, or off road. I installed them about a week ago. Where they are mounted seem to be pretty safe. They have a sticky back plus screws. I'd advise getting longer screws though.. I still need to hide the wires better in the rear.
But I like them. And the cops don't seem to mind either. They are bright enough to see what's under me and where tires are going and such, but not too bright. In md the law says under glow can't be seen more then 500 ft in front of or behind. And only mentions blue and red. We'll see haha
Yeah, nice. I have the jeep's hardtop on right now, and it has an interior light. I'm thinking this series of linked LED truck bed lights would be a great set-up to run along the roll bar for interior lighting when I'm using my soft-top or safari top. Hard to see anything in the tuffy console or rear storage boxes at night. Just a simple white light, none of the candy-colored lighting that seems so popular on that site.
Yeah, nice. I have the jeep's hardtop on right now, and it has an interior light. I'm thinking this series of linked LED truck bed lights would be a great set-up to run along the roll bar for interior lighting when I'm using my soft-top or safari top. Hard to see anything in the tuffy console or rear storage boxes at night. Just a simple white light, none of the candy-colored lighting that seems so popular on that site.
They are way bright. And I think would be over powering. If I were to do interior lighting from these guys, who have good customer service and fast shipping, I would get solid white led tune lights and just wire them to a switch
I know better then leaving valuable in the Jeep but I wanted more protection so I did some improvement on my center console.
I had most of the stuff laying around so it costed around $30 to build.
The top plate is 1/16 Stainless steel and I used a trailer lock. I also did the inside of the console with the same SS plate for more bracing but didn't snap a picture...
Mounted my hi-lift on my hood. $49.99 for the 48" black hi-lift jack on amazon (normally $63.99 with free super saver shipping, but this one was listed as damaged box on sale), $9 for bolts, washers, nuts at lowes. Had a 40"long piece of 1-1/4" square tubing with plastic end caps in the garage from another project.
hey im new to the jeep world and iv noticed that the fake leather seats in my 05 wrangler dont breath too well! so i was thinking about buying some seat covers that wont leave the back of my shirt stuck to my skin any suggestions? please help thanks!
hey im new to the jeep world and iv noticed that the fake leather seats in my 05 wrangler dont breath too well! so i was thinking about buying some seat covers that wont leave the back of my shirt stuck to my skin any suggestions? please help thanks!
Well you could just drill some holes in the seat...
Really though, my best advice to you would be to STAY AWAY from neoprene seat covers, because they don't breathe just like the faux-leather seats do not. That advice comes from personal experience. I don't have any experience with other seat covers, but search the forum and I'm sure you will find some good info! Also, if you can't find what you need by searching, you should try a different sub-forum.
Welcome to the forum, and welcome to the Jeep world! :2thumbsup:
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