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Nate's 2002 TJ, simple but effective....

487K views 5K replies 141 participants last post by  ethancromer95 
#1 ·
Nate's 2002 TJ, Not so simple anymore.

As things change I think I'll try and keep a current photo right at the top....
Updated 1/17/14

The Hammers….. Chocolate Thunder



I never really post on here but I do appreciate all that I read! Here's a few pics of my TJ. I really don't know how it's even come this far. I'm a broke family man with way to many hobbies, but this Jeep thing has been the BEST one i've ever gotten into for me and my family! The Jeep is more like a family member than a vehicle. Here's a basic mod list. Any questions or more info. needed please ask!

Powertrain:
-2.5L
-AX-5
-NP231 with TeraLow 4:1 and Rugged Ridge SYE
-Tatton CV driveshafts

Front Axle:
-LP D30
-Sierra 4.88 gears
-Aussie Locker
-Yukon Chromoly Axles
-Spicer ball joints
-Alloy USA axle seals
-Clayton 3 link bridge
-Artec LCA brackets
-Blue Torch Fab diff cover
-Big Daddy Off Road Tie Rod.

Rear Axle:
-D35 (the most famous D35 ever)
-Sierra 4.88 gears
-Superior 30 spline Axles
-Detroit Locker
-Poly performance shock mounts
-Blue Torch Fab diff cover

Chassis:
-Custom 6" rear frame stretch for 100" wheelbase
-Genright "Alien" stretch fuel tank
-1" body lift

Suspension:
-Front 3 link
-Teraflex 9550 shocks
-R/C 2.5" springs
-Teraflex coil spacers
-Metalcloak Duroflex joints
-Custom .250 DOM links (29" length)
-UCF lower frame link mounts
-Barnes 4wd inner frame mount
-Clayton 3 link bridge
-Stock track bar
-Currie AntiRock sway bar
-Custom front suck down winch

-Rear 5 link
-R/C upper and lower links
-UCF chassis link mounts
-Metalcloak Duroflex joints
-Stock track bar / with relocation bracket
-Moog rear springs
-Skyjacker Hydro shocks
-Poly Performance shock towers
-Relocated stock coil buckets
-Factory rear sway bar with extended links

Wheels / Tires:
-Raceline Monster Beadlocks 231
-35x12.5r15 BF Goodrich KM2's

Exterior / Armor:
-Barnes4WD front bumper
-Custom steering box skid
-Custom Oil pan skid
-Barnes4WD flat T-case skid plate with custom bracing
-Poison Spyder Hood Louver
-MetalCloak arched front fenders with rub rail
-Trail Gear rock sliders
-Savvy Aluminum half doors
-MetalCloak rear corner armor customized for 6" stretch with rub rail
-Swag Offroad drop down tailgate kit
-Custom rear bumper crossmember
-OR-fab front sport cage
-Custom cage additions, windshield bar, front spreader bars
-Poison Spyder rear trail cage
-Hella H4 headlight upgrade
-DDM Tuning 5000k HID kit
-4" LED rear tail lights with aftermarket flasher

Interior:
-Iggee seat covers
-Radio Shack CB
-Custom in cab winch switch
-Hand throttle
-Raptor Lined tub
-Artec Quart Crate
-Swag off road Baja Bin
-Poly Performance 10lb CO2 kit
-Crawl Magazine fire extinguisher mount
-Smittybilt mesh top
-Sony Bluetooth stereo

Recovery:
-Smittybilt XRC8 winch with steel cable
-Warn steel fairlead
-Tractor supply D-rings
-various recovery straps and snatch block

And....... well probably a bunch more little stuff but that's most it.

I've done all the work besides the re-gear.... so if you have any questions I may be able to help.









Just a little Vid of the type of wheeling we have in Central California

 
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#4 ·
Yeah I DD it. The Aussie in the rear doesn't bother me a bit. Now i'm not saying that I can't tell it's there...... just that it's behavior becomes predictable and just something you get used to. The main thing you can feel if you have a manual transmission is when you shift and get back on the gas the jeep tends to pitch slightly to the side. I would guess if you had an auto this would be a non issue. For the money, quality of the part, ease of install and capability it adds to the jeep I think it's well worth it.
 
#11 ·
Haven't updated this in a while. Well my Aussie locker in the rear started popping and acting really strange so I had to take it out. I can't really say for sure it was the unit itself because it actually looks to be in really good condition. I think maybe the carrier was damaged in some way.

I just put in a Superior super 35 kit with Detroit, and feel really good about my purchase based on the research I've done on the kit.





I managed the install myself, and it went pretty good. You just have to be relatively comfortable with what's going on in there.

Now my next project is a Rough Country long arm upgrade. I went this route for several reasons. I was running stock control arms prior. One reason is that several people I know run this kit and love it, and I've had the chance to really look at it installed, and it's very stout. (my stock stuff is SO beat) I also run my rig relatively low but want lots of droop. Improved ride quality also sounds good. And besides all that.... I was just looking to make more of a change to the rig besides simply replacing short arms.

I spent the day yesterday prepping for the install. I disassembled everything, painted a bunch underneath, cleaned and basically just tried to do whatever I could to get ready (parts haven't arrived yet)

Cutting off the stock control arm brackets with a 4in. electric angle grinder was a *****. I didn't like how it went. I got it done but not without getting into the frame more than I wanted to. In retrospect I was going about it wrong and didn't really figure it out until the last bracket. I tried to cut right on the weld down into it at an angle, then when I got into It pretty good I beat it with a BFH. This worked but I had to keep grinding....... and grinding. Well the last bracket I went lower on the bracket below the weld and didn't get into my frame very much at all. I've done a lot of things, but removing brackets like that was new to me, and the lack of clearance was tough. Oh well its DONE! Here's how it sits now. Still waiting on parts!









I'll post up some install pics over the next few days. Excited to get it all on.
 
#19 ·
Hey fuzz, I was just looking around for ****z and giggles and noticed you PHU emblem! I am also part of my local 300! Happy wheeling bro.
 
#22 ·
I've been trying to think of a good way to really flex out my Jeep in a controlled clean environment to check clearances, and see how much droop, uptravel, and if my bumpstops were really at good levels. My buddy has a forklift but his shop was closed so I had to improvise.

I'm not recommended anyone actually repeat this but it worked! :shhh:

I've got a motorcycle lift I use ALL the time for my bikes, and it just so happens it can be used as a platform to lift a tire on my jeep. Well it couldn't lift it on it's own, but a little help from the floor jack and it had no problem. Then I just locked in the safety bar and did some inspecting. The whole time thinking I'm gonna flop my damn jeep IN my garage. haha.

Found out nothing is hitting, front droop is limited pretty bad by my 22.5 inch shocks (longer Bilstein 5100's on order). Brake lines are good, bumpstops are working and at proper levels. Good info. Here's a few pics of the sketchiness....















 
#23 ·
Yes! looks sweet with the shocks disco-ed..

I know I'm getting about 3ft (36") of flex on my short arms. What (extended) length shocks are you getting?

Also, looks like you could do some cutting under the front and rear fenders to gain some extra uptravel
 
#24 ·
Yes! looks sweet with the shocks disco-ed..

I know I'm getting about 3ft (36") of flex on my short arms. What (extended) length shocks are you getting?

Also, looks like you could do some cutting under the front and rear fenders to gain some extra uptravel
Wow, 36" is a lot!

I'm getting Bilstein 5100's, with an extended length of 25". I'm a bit limited by how low I am but I just don't want to lift it any more. Right now I feel like my set up is kind of all over the place, not making sense! It really performed well IMO last time out so I'm happy, I just need to formulate a real game plan though and stick with it.

Two Metalcloak 6 pack shocks in the front would really do what I had envisioned. 4" up travel 10" down. With the Bilsteins I'll have 4 / 6. Gonna have to work for now.
 
#27 ·
I had a pretty full day of Jeep wrenching fun today. First I was having this bright idea about running spare less for a while. Well I wanted the tailgate to look "cleaner" (still have rubber bumpers on it and bolts). So I took all that crap off and cleaned it up best I could. Then I went to my local Ace and bought some stainless button heads to screw into the holes, they match the bolts used for the metalcloak armor so it looks tidy.







I've never needed my spare in the last 5 years, so now of coarse now that I'm lugging it around I'll need it sometime soon! haha. I'm digging the look though and all that weight hanging off the back can't help rock crawling. We'll see though. It's just a quick 5 min. deal to put it back up there.

Next was something I've been meaning to do for a while now. Ever since I got the Metalcloak fenders, my Smittybilt "classic" bumper has just looked Loooong to me. And now with all the current stubby style simple bumpers out that I really like, I decided to "bob" my bumper.... I cut out 4 1/2 inches on each side and welded the caps back on. Came out pretty good I think, and now maybe I get my tire started up something before my bumper hits it. And it saved me from buying a new one, although these aluminum ones keep calling to me....







I also got my new shocks in today. Been looking forward to this for a little while now. Originally I ordered Bilstein 5100's but apparently they are on back order for ever. So I had my order switched to the TeraFlex 5550's. Saved a bit of money over the Bilsteins, and took a little chance on them, they measured out exactly what I needed.

Seems like a lot of JK guys use them, not many TJ guys. I got them put on and think I'm going to like them. They are A LOT softer than I thought they'd be. That a good thing to me, I don't like really stiff shocks and just thought it was a given with a Nitro shock in this price range. The seem softer than my Skyjacker Hydros I took out.

As far as the lengths go, couldn't have been better! Shock fully compressed when hard on the bumps, and shock fully extended is juuuuust barely to the point where my spring has very little / no tension on it. I did finally have to adjust my brake lines though. They had some tension on them. I just simply tweaked them out a bit and redrilled the holes a little over an inch lower and there was plenty of slack. Should be problem solved.

On my test drive I forgot to connect the sway bar so my initial impressions before realizing that were kind of WTF!.... haha. After that though the ride felt good, no crazy improvement or magic carpet ride but it felt tight and smooth, but willing to move when it needed to. Overall I'm a little disappointed I didn't get to try out the highly revered 5100's, but still feel I made a good choice over the "standard" white body shocks out there...











Overall pretty good day Jeep wrenching....... :cheers2:
 
#29 ·
Knocked out a little project I've been wanting to do for a while now. Put together an in-cab winch switch. Always meant to buy one from 12v guy but never got around to it. Anyways I was bored yesterday so I decided to hit radio shack to see what I could come up with.

Came out looking pretty much like the one's you can buy pre-made. Works good, was a fun little project.

I got everything at Radio shack, spent about $30 including the wire, fuse holder, loom. The wire was over half that, so if you have wire already laying around this is a very cheap little project. I anyone wants to know what items were used specifically let me know.

It was always annoying having to get my controller out any time I needed the winch. This will be handy!



I bought an LED also not realizing the tip of the safety switch had one build in, I thought that was pretty slick!

 
#30 ·
Installed the Swag Offroad Drop Down Tailgate kit last night. Maybe I was just tired but I found it to be a finicky install.. Getting those backing plates into place behind the tub for the lower hinge bolts was about the most frustrating thing I've done in recent memory! Also somehow even though I drilled the hinges with the tailgate locked solid my striker attached to the tub does not have enough adjustment to be completely smooth when opening.... bleh!

I'm also leery of how the cables attach to the tub, Self tapping bolts? I would much rather use a bolt / nyloc combo. It seems like A LOT of force being put through there. Also self tappers and a small bracket on the passenger side cable mount on the gate itself. I really hope these hold up to years of use. I just can't see it happening though. 400lbs???

The newest design has a plate that runs the length of the gate with the Swag logo in it. I'm just not understanding why we wouldn't want that solid plate running the length of the TUB where the hinges mount?? Seems like MUCH more pressure is on the tub with weight on the gate. A plate running the length of both is probably ideal Bleh.....

Honestly feeling a bit of buyer remorse with this one. I hope it changes once I actually get to use it and it comes in handy. I was already thinking $200 was a lot for what your getting but figured the kit was designed incredibly stout based on what I've read. Maybe I was just expecting to much. Somewhat disappointing.......





 
#32 ·
looks really good.

debating the drop down tailgate too. do you like how it functions? as in, the latches and how secure it is when closed?
Thanks, yeah I like how it functions. The toggle lever on the passenger side is a neat design. You can make it seal as tight as your willing to push on the gate to engage the toggle, only mild tension is needed for a tight seal though. I just went outside all looked at the tub striker again and added a washer behind it. Now it operates smoothly. The HD hinges are also nothing to get excited about. Just off the shelf CJ aftermarket hinges, Not sure what I was expecting.... they are probably just fine for the job.
 
#33 ·
Just wanted to follow up on some of my impressions on the Swag Tailgate kit. I've had a chance to show it to several friends now, most had never seen or heard of the kit. Well they all think it's pretty cool. And a few of them who have more experience than me using self tapping hardware said that the self tappers are very legit and will hold up just fine. I just wanted to clear that up since I was pretty hard on them in my initial reaction post. So now my only real gripe is that I think the tub hinge mount should be a solid plate all the way across, as you can see some flexing on the hinge area with weight on the gate. I'm pretty sure I'll be hitting up Troy for the aluminum solid plate he offers. Overall it's growing on me.
 
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